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Deaerated Heater Remains Cold: Troubleshooting Central Heating Block & Water Release Methods

michalpolo 45141 26
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Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
  • #1 16046605
    michalpolo
    Level 9  
    I am asking for help, what to do here:

    Deaerated Heater Remains Cold: Troubleshooting Central Heating Block & Water Release Methods

    Added after 13 [minutes]:

    I will add that I made various combinations. I let off the water in the upper right next to the left one, all the plants and the heater was warm / very warm at the top. it is a central heating block, all right in the adjoining room
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  • #2 16046651
    roman 18
    Level 24  
    hello, buddy, first of all, write whether the heater of this radiator last season, then check if the valve pin can be dented, maybe the valve plug is stuck and does not release the heating medium on the radiator, if so, take pliers and start this pin.
  • #3 16046654
    brofran
    Level 41  
    If it is in a "block", aka a multi-family building, call the ADM professional. It is their duty to keep the radiators warm. The photos show that something was done recently, write what and why?
  • #4 16046728
    michalpolo
    Level 9  
    the spindle was moved, I always move before the season. I do not know if it was warm in the previous one, because I bought the apartment six months ago. Everything was done around the radiator, but he was not moved.
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  • Helpful post
    #5 16046932
    brofran
    Level 41  
    michalpolo wrote:
    Everything was done around the radiator, but he was not moved.

    Well, it looks like you need it too move on . Something happened: tube or valve, heater unlikely. It is unlikely to do without dismantling. :cry:
  • Helpful post
    #6 16047001
    Magister_123
    Level 36  
    Read about letting the radiators (applies to the upper valve of the radiator). You can have a radiator with an inlet at maximum value and the heat "bypasses" the radiator. At the bottom valve, unscrew the black butterfly and check how the brass `` pin '' is positioned (it's best to paste a good photo of this element), Take the hammer and hit each valve firmly but carefully (garbage often accumulates there).
  • #7 16047172
    michalpolo
    Level 9  
    Deaerated Heater Remains Cold: Troubleshooting Central Heating Block & Water Release Methods Deaerated Heater Remains Cold: Troubleshooting Central Heating Block & Water Release Methods Deaerated Heater Remains Cold: Troubleshooting Central Heating Block & Water Release Methods

    Added after 1 [hours] 33 [minutes]:

    it is very strange, but not the upper valve and the lower screw on the left (not visible in the photo) released the air. on another forum someone wrote that this is a sign that "there is air in the drainage riser and the problem may return. Probably in the top section of this pipe there is another vent that needs to be opened to fill the water pipe"
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  • #8 16048364
    brofran
    Level 41  
    michalpolo wrote:
    Probably in the top section of this pipe there is another vent that needs to be opened to fill the pipe with water "

    Also possible. But you can vent the top and bottom of the radiator. Only water without bubbles should come out. If the inlet riser pipe is hot, there is definitely no air in this pipe! Which floor is your apartment on? If not on the upper one, ask your neighbor upstairs if his radiator in this riser works (the temperatures on the risers you described show that the above is OK).
  • #9 16048375
    michalpolo
    Level 9  
    The apartment on the ground floor is an apartment in Denmark, above me lives an old grandmother who speaks only a language I do not speak :(

    Yesterday, after the air was released, they were hot at the top, today all radiators are slightly lukewarm !!! the other, which was previously out of the question, the same symptoms, a slightly different structure
  • #10 16048432
    Zbigniew Rusek
    Level 38  
    michalpolo wrote:

    it is very strange, but not the upper valve and the lower screw on the left (not visible in the photo) released the air. on another forum someone wrote that this is a sign that "there is air in the drainage riser and the problem may return. Probably in the top section of this pipe there is another vent that needs to be opened to fill the water pipe"

    It is badly fitted there at all. You can see in the photo (in the first post) that the twig deviates from the riser LOWER than it enters the radiator, and should go at least at the same height as the radiator thread, and it is even desirable that it deviates slightly higher from the riser to create a drop. With such a mounting as shown in the picture, it can easily get aired, hence a vent on the radiator is necessary (it's good that it is). There may also be air in the riser (there should be an air vent on the riser). What's in these photos a few posts next? It looks like a thermostatic valve with certain elements removed (head, mushroom)? It's strange that it doesn't pour.
    Speaking of Denmark, it is installed correctly.
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  • #11 16048542
    michalpolo
    Level 9  
    This is a photo of the thermostat valve. There was a suspicion in another forum that it is a hertz valve, which is supposed to be at the output, not at the input. But other radiators in the house have the same valve.
  • Helpful post
    #12 16048625
    roman 18
    Level 24  
    hello, buddy, try another method of bleeding, close the return valve at this radiator and then loosen the nut on the flare nut of the thermostatic valve, probably in this elbow the air is blocking the flow of the liquid. greetings
  • #13 16048724
    michalpolo
    Level 9  
    thanks Roman !! i will try!

    Added after 33 [minutes]:

    roman 18 wrote:
    hello, buddy, try another method of bleeding, close the return valve at this radiator and then loosen the nut on the flare nut of the thermostatic valve, probably in this elbow the air is blocking the flow of the liquid. greetings


    thermostat closed or heating to the max?
  • #14 16048884
    roman 18
    Level 24  
    hello, buddy, try another method of bleeding, close the return valve at this radiator and then loosen the nut on the flare nut of the thermostatic valve, probably in this elbow the air is blocking the flow of the liquid. best regards, heating on maxsa.
  • #15 16048918
    michalpolo
    Level 9  
    roman 18 wrote:
    hello, buddy, try another method of bleeding, close the return valve at this radiator and then loosen the nut on the flare nut of the thermostatic valve, probably in this elbow the air is blocking the flow of the liquid. best regards, heating on maxsa.



    I did so, hot water flew, maybe with air, but it's hard to say. Maybe I gave up with 3l. The upper left corner of the radiator and the pipe from the black valve became hot. when finished
  • #16 16048959
    brofran
    Level 41  
    michalpolo wrote:
    it's an apartment in Denmark

    I conclude that you are renting. Therefore, report the problem to the owner, he is obliged to provide you with appropriate conditions, because you pay for it. You can see that something in the installation has been corrected recently, because it certainly didn't heat well, but the effects of the corrections were not. You are unlikely to do anything with it yourself, since all simple prompts have failed. :cry:
  • #17 16048975
    michalpolo
    Level 9  
    another dependence:

    left valve open
    heating thermostat to max
    lower right valve closed

    when the water is released with the upper valve, the radiator is hot for the entire width, about 10-15 cm from the top, the bottom is cold
  • Helpful post
    #18 16048981
    Samuraj
    Level 35  
    Most likely there is no refrigerant flow through the return. Hence, the radiator is warm for a moment after deaeration.
    I propose to turn off the supply and return of the heater, unscrew the air vent and overflow the heater by unscrewing the return.
  • #19 16048984
    michalpolo
    Level 9  
    brofran wrote:
    michalpolo wrote:
    it's an apartment in Denmark

    I conclude that you are renting. Therefore, report the problem to the owner, he is obliged to provide you with appropriate conditions, because you pay for it. You can see that something in the installation has been corrected recently, because it certainly didn't heat well, but the effects of the corrections were not. You are unlikely to do anything with it yourself, since all simple prompts have failed. :cry:



    I've just bought. I went to the host of the house and he says that the radiators are my business, so before I call a professional, I want to be sure whether the fault is on my or the building's side.

    Added after 2 [minutes]:

    Samuraj wrote:
    Most likely there is no refrigerant flow through the return. Hence, the radiator is warm for a moment after deaeration.
    I propose to turn off the supply and return of the heater, unscrew the air vent and overflow the heater by unscrewing the return.


    sounds interesting but let me understand:

    1. I turn off both black valves
    2. Unscrew the vent, which is the little something on the top right
    3 I do not understand this: pour over the radiator by unscrewing the return

    please check points 1 and 2 and explain 3. thank you
  • #20 16049070
    Samuraj
    Level 35  
    Exactly as you write. Perhaps there is some muck in the return valve and hence the lack of flow or, even worse, the return curved somewhere below. After unscrewing the vent, it will command pressure from the heater even though both valves are closed.
    Then slowly unscrew the return and watch what happens.
    By the way, this radiator was installed by an artist. How to take it off? No puffiness on the return?
  • #21 16049083
    michalpolo
    Level 9  
    Samuraj wrote:
    Exactly as you write. Perhaps there is some muck in the return valve and hence the lack of flow or, even worse, the return curved somewhere below. After unscrewing the vent, it will command pressure from the heater even though both valves are closed.
    Then slowly unscrew the return and watch what happens.


    but to overflow in the sense of pouring out or just opening the valve slowly?
  • #22 16049122
    Samuraj
    Level 35  
    Pour out, you won't pour out, because where is the water going to go out overhead?
    The point is to check if the return is clear. Unscrew slowly and drain 3 liters of water with the air vent.
  • #23 16049154
    michalpolo
    Level 9  
    Samuraj wrote:
    Pour out, you will not pour out, because where is this water to go out overhead?
    The point is to check if the return is clear. Unscrew slowly and drain 3 liters of water with the air vent.



    and when to open the black valves, how will he pour these 3 liters upwards? how's the thermostat? max heating or closed?
  • Helpful post
    #24 16049164
    Samuraj
    Level 35  
    1) We turn both: the one at the bottom and the top
    2) Loosen the air vent
    3) We pour a little water, max 100ml more will not fly
    4) Unscrew the bottom valve slightly
    5) We pour about 3l of water through the vent
    6) We turn the bottom one
    7) We tighten the air vent
    8) Unscrew the upper and lower valves
  • #25 16049169
    michalpolo
    Level 9  
    Samuraj wrote:
    1) We turn both: the one at the bottom and the top
    2) Loosen the air vent
    3) We pour a little water, max 100ml more will not fly
    4) Unscrew the bottom valve slightly
    5) We pour about 3l of water through the vent
    6) We turn the bottom one
    7) We tighten the air vent
    8) Unscrew the upper and lower valves


    I get it, I'll act right away, I'll write how it went

    Added after 1 [hours] 37 [minutes]:

    test carried out in accordance with the instructions, no heat effect

    after that I did another test:
    1st in and out valve closed
    2.using the valve on the left at the bottom (I have not shown it in the picture before - my mistake)
    I let all the water out of the radiator.
    3. I opened both valves at the same time and the radiator fills up immediately with hot water and the radiator is all hot. After filling, there was a lot of noise in the pipes, so I was afraid that something would fall out somewhere, as if something was flowing from the pipes. After half an hour from this filling, the radiator is already cool !!!


    BLACK MAGIC !!!!!!!!!!
  • #26 16049496
    Samuraj
    Level 35  
    No flow. Your power supply is hot, but there is no flow through the radiator and it is cool when it gives off heat.
    Pour hot water into the bathtub, it will be warm for a while and then cool down. Remove the plug and pour hot water at the same time - the water in the tub will be hot all the time. Well, unless the drain will be larger than the power supply.
    How many of these valves do you have on this radiator? Three ?
    Top left and bottom and bottom right?
  • #27 16049516
    michalpolo
    Level 9  
    Samuraj wrote:
    No flow. Your power supply is hot, but there is no flow through the radiator and it is cool when it gives off heat.
    Pour hot water into the bathtub, it will be warm for a while and then cool down. Remove the plug and pour hot water at the same time - the water in the tub will be hot all the time. Well, unless the drain will be larger than the power supply.
    How many of these valves do you have on this radiator? Three ?
    Top left and bottom and bottom right?




    on the left I have this black valve like the one on the bottom right.

    but I also have a draining nut on the bottom left.

Topic summary

The discussion revolves around troubleshooting a deaerated heater that remains cold in a central heating system. The user describes various attempts to release air from the radiator, noting that the top section becomes warm while the bottom remains cold. Responses suggest checking the valve pins for blockages, ensuring proper venting of air, and examining the installation for potential issues such as incorrect pipe alignment. Several methods for bleeding the radiator are proposed, including closing valves and loosening the thermostatic valve to allow air to escape. The user ultimately finds that after releasing water and air, the radiator fills with hot water but cools down again shortly after. The conversation highlights the importance of ensuring proper flow and venting in heating systems.
Summary generated by the language model.
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