Hello, I bought a turtleneck as in the subject and I would like to get an opinion on it, in addition to something slightly jarmola at idle on the right side of the engine, such noises as grinding pepper in a Vag grinder shows a low voltage lambada heating error (lambda probes) and sporadic...

I did one with a broken timing chain, 2 chains from the gearbox side.

is it a matter of the tensioner? or the chain itself?

The question of the pump giving too much pressure, which made the tensioner pull on the chain like bull's eggs.

There was a valve at the oil pump in the 1.8 20V engine, is that it? I don't know exactly this engine or its design Added after 10 [minutes]: in general, this car has power, everything is ok except the stepper, as long as the vag shows the truth, I do not know if it makes sense to replace the tensioners and sliders, after all, the car chain is 250,000. The manufacturer assumes that the timing gear is lifetime, but mechanics recommend replacing it every 200,000. so mine is now of legal age on this topic. Added after 42 [minutes]: and is it better to throw out the entire front belt and leave it as a whole, or maybe the engine itself should be removed and the rest left?

I remove the belt, the pulley on the shaft, accessories, the alternator, the air conditioning and the engine itself.

And ultrasonic clean injectors. Have a specific design cję

coperfild thanks for confirming my thought . Now I will also ask if replacing slides and tensioners helps? because in German forums I read (with the help of a google translator) that after a few thousand noise returns, maybe it's a lame?

The chain is always a bit audible, it's probably such a construction, but if you mention it, you know that it will not shoot you.

Well, I will have peace of mind, do the elements from VR6 fit? am I wrong? I found some photos that show that VR6 and VR5 are almost identical engines?

Going back to the topic, the guy from whom I bought flooded 10w40, he probably made manniane, in my opinion too thick for this bike, although the service book includes this oil? and of course the pusher is talking on the cold pat for a long time until it warms up well.

Golf IV 2.3 VR5 150km Engine Review & Issue: Grinding Noise, Low Voltage Lambda Heating Error

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Why is my Golf IV 2.3 VR5 making a grinding noise at idle, showing a low-voltage lambda heater error, and sometimes stalling or misfiring when warm?

The thread points first to a timing-chain problem on the gearbox side, possibly a broken or worn chain, with the tensioner being overloaded; one user also notes the oil pump can give too much pressure and make the tensioner pull the chain hard [#16204813] [#16205403] To inspect it properly, the advice is to remove the front/belt side parts, including the belt, crank pulley, accessories, alternator and A/C, and even take the engine out for access [#16207053] The chain is said to be always a bit audible on this engine, but a true grinding sound means you should not ignore it [#16207737] One comment adds that the car may have been filled with 10W-40, which was considered too thick and could make the hydraulic pusher/tensioner noisy until the engine warms up [#16212262] Another suggestion is to clean the injectors ultrasonically, since the engine has a specific design [#16207071]

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#1 16204783 16 Jan 2017 20:20

Anonymous Anonymous

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Post #1
16204783 16 Jan 2017 20:20

Hello, I bought a turtleneck as in the subject and I would like to get an opinion on it, in addition to something slightly jarmola at idle on the right side of the engine, such noises as grinding pepper in a Vag grinder shows a low voltage lambada heating error (lambda probes) and sporadic engine failures stepper, I will add that it waves slightly at idle speed (sometimes) when it warms up and when it lights up, it can go out right after the start and you need to fire again.
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#2 16204813 16 Jan 2017 20:31

coperfild coperfild

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Post #2
16204813 16 Jan 2017 20:31

I did one with a broken timing chain, 2 chains from the gearbox side.
#3 16204832 16 Jan 2017 20:37

Anonymous Anonymous

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Post #3
16204832 16 Jan 2017 20:37

is it a matter of the tensioner? or the chain itself?
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#4 16205403 16 Jan 2017 23:27

dabu dabu

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16205403 16 Jan 2017 23:27

The question of the pump giving too much pressure, which made the tensioner pull on the chain like bull's eggs.
#5 16206784 17 Jan 2017 17:32

Anonymous Anonymous

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Post #5
16206784 17 Jan 2017 17:32

There was a valve at the oil pump in the 1.8 20V engine, is that it? I don't know exactly this engine or its design

Added after 10 [minutes]:

in general, this car has power, everything is ok except the stepper, as long as the vag shows the truth, I do not know if it makes sense to replace the tensioners and sliders, after all, the car chain is 250,000. The manufacturer assumes that the timing gear is lifetime, but mechanics recommend replacing it every 200,000. so mine is now of legal age on this topic.

Added after 42 [minutes]:

and is it better to throw out the entire front belt and leave it as a whole, or maybe the engine itself should be removed and the rest left?
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#6 16207053 17 Jan 2017 18:20

coperfild coperfild

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Post #6
16207053 17 Jan 2017 18:20

I remove the belt, the pulley on the shaft, accessories, the alternator, the air conditioning and the engine itself.
#7 16207071 17 Jan 2017 18:25

andrzej20001 andrzej20001

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Post #7
16207071 17 Jan 2017 18:25

And ultrasonic clean injectors. Have a specific design cję
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#8 16207334 17 Jan 2017 19:51

Anonymous Anonymous

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Post #8
16207334 17 Jan 2017 19:51

coperfild thanks for confirming my thought . Now I will also ask if replacing slides and tensioners helps? because in German forums I read (with the help of a google translator) that after a few thousand noise returns, maybe it's a lame?
#9 16207737 17 Jan 2017 21:44

coperfild coperfild

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Post #9
16207737 17 Jan 2017 21:44

The chain is always a bit audible, it's probably such a construction, but if you mention it, you know that it will not shoot you.
#10 16209339 18 Jan 2017 16:00

Anonymous Anonymous

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Post #10
16209339 18 Jan 2017 16:00

Well, I will have peace of mind, do the elements from VR6 fit? am I wrong? I found some photos that show that VR6 and VR5 are almost identical engines?
#11 16212262 19 Jan 2017 18:32

Anonymous Anonymous

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Post #11
16212262 19 Jan 2017 18:32

dabu wrote:
The question of the pump giving too much pressure, which made the tensioner pull on the chain like bull's eggs.

Going back to the topic, the guy from whom I bought flooded 10w40, he probably made manniane, in my opinion too thick for this bike, although the service book includes this oil?
and of course the pusher is talking on the cold pat for a long time until it warms up well.
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Topic summary

The discussion revolves around issues with a Golf IV 2.3 VR5 engine, specifically a grinding noise, low voltage lambda heating error, and sporadic engine failures. Users suggest that the grinding noise may be related to the timing chain and tensioner, with some indicating that the oil pump's pressure could be a contributing factor. There are concerns about the longevity of the timing components, with recommendations to replace tensioners and sliders after significant mileage. The discussion also touches on the compatibility of VR6 parts with the VR5 engine and the appropriateness of using 10w40 oil, which some believe may be too thick for optimal performance. Overall, the conversation highlights the need for thorough maintenance and potential component replacements to address the engine's issues.
AI summary based on the discussion. May contain errors.

Golf IV 2.3 VR5 150km Engine Review & Issue: Grinding Noise, Low Voltage Lambda Heating Error

Why is my Golf IV 2.3 VR5 making a grinding noise at idle, showing a low-voltage lambda heater error, and sometimes stalling or misfiring when warm?

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