And how is it possible that after cleaning such a functional valve, after folding, the water leaks completely? The diaphragm shows no signs of wear, and I turned the plunger eraser and you can see that it is tight.
You had to fold something wrongly or tighten it too loosely, look at it, nothing is forcible. Alternatively, lubricate the rubbers with silicone grease.
Can you give a picture of this seal? Because there are at least 4 types. They look the same but have different diameters and thickness. You can ride on it. I bought on our aledrogo;> See this seller: Kranserwis But colleagues above have already given a fairly cheap source ... When the valve was in good working order, you had to put something together or damaged something ...
The gasket is original - I wanted to clean the working valve when replacing the drain valve. And this little spout going through the membrane is going to enter the hole in the housing or is it rather irrelevant?
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Or maybe while tightening the water supply hose the float guide has shifted from the vertical so that the float does not fulfill its task. A common mistake in these open floats. They used to be closed and, regardless of their position, served their purpose (emphasis on this rubber seal). Or the rubber has hardened and you need more strength to make it work.
In this type of valves, the float is designed to plug this tiny hole and then the valve membrane (seal) is pressed with water pressure to the valve seat and this closes the water flow. There is probably a small hole somewhere in this membrane that does not allow the pressure to press the membrane against the seat, or the seat has a pitting.
In this type of valves, the float is designed to plug this tiny hole and then the valve membrane (seal) is pressed with water pressure to the valve seat and this closes the water flow. There is probably a small hole somewhere in this membrane that does not allow the pressure to press the membrane against the seat, or the seat has a pitting.
So, after the float clogs the hole, through this tiny spout water gets into the membrane and inflates it ... so in fact the reason may be the lack of pressure increase in the membrane due to some invisible damage.
So, when the float is blocked by the hole, through this tiny spout water gets into the membrane and inflates it ...
It's not like water gets into the membrane and inflates it. If you have such a valve dismantled, analyze what happens when this hole is blocked. If this hole is blocked, the pressure behind the diaphragm increases, causing the diaphragm with the valve plug to be pressed (it is bonded to the diaphragm) to the valve seat (located in the valve housing - the body) and thus tightly closes it. Unclogging this hole causes a pressure drop on this side of the diaphragm and the water pressure on its other side causes it to move away (with the valve plug) from the valve seat allowing water to flow. This solution means that you do not need a lot of force to close the water (large float, on a large arm), which means that the level of water in the cistern does not depend on the water pressure, as it was in traditional (old) float valves. I call it a servo valve in my own way. As a supplement. There are two holes in the membrane. One is somewhere on its periphery - it is not obstructed, and the other is in the middle of it and it is obstructed (clogged) by the float or the solenoid valve stem (e.g. in washing machines).
I will add my 3 groszy to the subject. A 28mm diaphragm comes to the valve you specify, they will be bought alledrogy at the kranserwis user as someone wrote above (PLN 6.50 + delivery costs) or at the Leroy Merlin DIY store, which is the only one currently on offer for PLN 6.70:
in the description it is 27mm but it fits perfectly. I will add from myself that this membrane is difficult to access, even on the net. I leave the above information for other seekers
I just repaired the cistern (low-flush - filling valve) at no cost.
I CONFIRM what Zygaqra wrote - his way works !!! I cut such a pad from the old bicycle inner tube and super closes the filling valve in the low-rinse. You would need to buy a new whole shut-off valve and dismantle it and see if sometimes there is a seal that dissolves / biodegrades over time ... I wonder why it breaks so often. When you bought a new "porcelain" toilet in 1999-2000, it all worked for about 15 years - a flush. For the first time in 2015, the valve shut off the water supply to the cistern failed - that is, 15 years everything worked without a fault !!! Then I bought the whole valve the cheapest below PLN 20 in a hydrauylic store and since then it breaks down about every 2 years. I most often broke the valve when there was no water and then they released the water and then temporarily dirty water flew and the whole valve "shot" water mixed with dirt and air - the same in the taps. Last time when the cooperative was doing something and there was no water, I turned the tap on the toilet. Then when they released the water, I unscrewed the water supply pipe to the cistern, put the bucket and drained the water into the bucket, first dirty water flew, shot and fluttered, water mixed with air as if under high pressure ... and only when it calmed down and normal water flew and clean, I just turned everything and unscrewed the tap - for a few days the valve worked, closed well but after a few days it stopped closing again - i.e. refused to serve
How did I clean this membrane gasket it was soiled as if with sticky black chewing gum - I was wondering where it came from, was it dirt or did some factory rubber gasket dissolve into tar ??? Or was it some original silicone grease? - But probably not. And the white circle on which I drew the arrows was also dirty in this sticky thing. We give this seal between the rubber membrane and the white plastic ring.
After this repair, he gives himself 10 years of trouble-free operation Let's see how long it will last.
ps. I have a Grundig M15 tower https://www.google.com/search?&q=grundig+m15 with a CD, a 2-cassette tape recorder, a radio, so old because it was bought around 1995. And you know what happened? The tape deck stopped working a few years ago, the cassette deck drive stopped working - just those rubber belts transferring the drive from the motor to the turning parts of the cassette "dissolved" and took on the consistency of tar !!!!!! -> https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/viewtopic.php?p=18362756#18362756
The discussion revolves around sourcing a membrane gasket for a cistern filling valve. Users suggest that purchasing a new valve may be more cost-effective than replacing just the gasket, with prices for complete valves around PLN 11 and gaskets for PLN 6.50. Various sources for purchasing the gasket are provided, including links to online stores and local DIY shops like Leroy Merlin. Users also discuss troubleshooting issues related to valve leaks, suggesting that improper assembly or hardened rubber could be the cause. Some recommend using silicone grease for lubrication and mention alternative solutions, such as cutting a gasket from an old bicycle inner tube. The importance of the diaphragm's condition and proper assembly is emphasized to prevent leaks. Summary generated by the language model.
Let's see how long it will last. 