Why is the cistern slow to fill and how to fix it?

The cistern is slow to fill, can it be fixed?
.

Check for a clogged strainer in the valve if there is one. To check the filling valve if it is not clogged with some kind of paperwork.

Pan.Kropa wrote:

To check ...

Also the float guide, whether it is not "overgrown" with stone. Because when the float does not drop low, it will only minimally open the fill valve

.

@Pan.Kropa @Jacdiag what could be there when I unscrew that white cap, water is flowing and when I put it back together it's weak, there in that plastic is a hole of some kind it could be clogged ?

Disconnect the float from the lever - then in the lower position there should be a maximum inflow of water


Under the cap there is a rubber gasket that closes the water supply. The strainer that @Pan.Kropa wrote about is accessible from the outside of the cistern, after unscrewing the supply hose

Replace the entire filling valve cost about 25-30 zl.

@Pan.Kropa @Jacdiag @jerry1960 I disassembled it a little syph was there but not much I put it back together and it still fills slowly. There is such a rubber gasket it is cracked is this the cause ? it is possible to buy such a gasket ? and such a whole mechanism is where to buy ? and I do not know what model to buy?

Search under the keyword: REPAIR KIT FOR SPLIT FILLING VALVE
There are several types of gaskets in older models you could cut the gasket from a piece of rubber.

slu12345 wrote:

and such a whole mechanism is where to buy ? and I do not know what model to buy?

You can get it at any plumbing store, home improvement store, etc. It is best to dismantle the entire old cistern valve assembly and take it with you to the store - there will be no misguided purchase, and the salesperson will help you choose the most appropriate one.

slu12345 wrote:

this whole mechanism is where to buy ?

Speak on google "cistern valve "
and you will find that on:
"aledrogo"
"obi"
"castorama"
"leroy..."
and in any other store with plumbing supplies.

@Jacdiag @Mobali but it has to be the same shape of this valve?
that would be?
.

It does not have to be the same important that it fits and does not interfere with anything.

slu12345 wrote:

...but it has to be the same shape of this valve?

It doesn't have to be the same, but it has to match:

Mobali wrote:

Preferably, dismantle the entire old cistern valve assembly and take it with you to the store - there will be no wrong purchase, and the salesperson will help you select the most appropriate one.

.

Well, and you have carved. Today at my place failure of this valve only that the reverse. It does not close after topping up water. Disassembling the baked / stained for several years plastic is moderately worth the effort. At auctions costs new 10-12 zl and with shipping about 20 zl tomorrow at my place. I went to a chain builder. I assumed beforehand that up to 25 zł I will buy and above I will wait until tomorrow and pick up from the parcel machine. Well, and imagine that it costs 24 zł (they overheard my thoughts or what ) (sic!) set ½" with the ability to switch to 3/8" water supply. The cistern is already working OK!

slu12345 wrote:

@Jacdiag @Mobali but it has to be the same shape of this valve?
that would be?

It can also be of other shapes (designs) but pay attention to the size of the tube (fitting) with the water supply.
.

My cistern has developed a problem with a slow Inter-Sano fill valve,
.
.
.
.
resulting from insufficient pressure of the diaphragm against the plastic part of the control chamber. The cause appeared to be a loosening/unsealing of the connection between the two components.
.
.
.
.

For the repair I used 100% silicone universal clear glue No. S-072 (20 mL) brand Technicqll . The glue was spot applied to the arc of the circle and the outer circle marked in red,
.
excluding the section (arc of the circle) located directly under the microchannel of the control chamber,
.
so as not to disrupt its hydraulic function.

After the adhesive application, the diaphragm and plastic component assembly was compressed with LUX-TOOLS spring compressors.
.
.
Compression with LUX-TOOLS 50 mm spring compressors is recommended.


or 85 mm
.

using a 1 zloty coin between the clamp jaw and the diaphragm for even pressure distribution, stabilisation of the components during curing, avoidance of diaphragm crushing and precision without specialised tools.
The components were left in the clamp for 24 hours at room temperature to cure the adhesive. After reassembly, the valve has been working properly for a month now.

I hope this method will help other forum users to solve a similar problem - in my case it proved completely successful 😁.

🔍 The principle of the diaphragm in the filling valve:
⦁ When the water is drained, the float drops, opening the valve and starting the flow of water.
⦁ The diaphragm acts as a flexible baffle between the inflow and the control chamber - when the valve opens, it flexes, allowing flow.
⦁ As the tank fills, the pressure equalizes, the float rises and the control chamber builds up pressure to close the diaphragm.

💧 Important role of microscopic water flow:
There is a fine flow between the membrane and the plastic element of the control chamber:
⦁ Stabilises the pressure in the control chamber.
⦁ Allows the valve to react dynamically to a change in water level.
⦁ Compensates for pressure fluctuations in the system.

✅ Advantages of using a diaphragm:
⦁ Quiet and smooth operation.
⦁ Resistance to wear.
⦁ Accurate flow shut-off even at varying pressures.