PEUGEOT 306 2.0 HDI check engine control, there are still moments after switchin

Question

Hello. I have a problem with Peugeot 306 2.0 hdi. The car went normally until it got cold. Namely, it stood in the garage (not insulated) 3 days in the cold and was not fired. After these three days, the car was fired because of the weak battery. After starting the car went out at idle as well...

pepe150 · Accepted Answer

Give them the car since you paid and they didn't fix it.

If it works up to 2.5 thousand turns, the computer has gone into safe mode.
Working for a few seconds after switching off the ignition is a typical symptom for the fuel pressure regulator on the toilet pump. But the regulator can be undamaged, and the pump that can peel and kills the strainer that is in the regulator.

You paid for a mechanic, let them fix it.
In my opinion, paraffin has precipitated from the fuel and the toilet pump is flaking.

Anonymous · Accepted Answer

Well, unfortunately, modern turbodiesel is not diagnosed for appearance. If the engine runs normally for a while, then after stopping and removing the key from the ignition, it works for a while, how is the toilet pump broken? Whether after deleting old errors and the appearance of the indicator check engine was the control computer connected to the diagnoscope to read fault codes? If you have not done so, make a complaint all the time until the result, otherwise the cash register will be refunded. In my opinion, the following things should be focused on: 1. Is it unobstructed transfer fuel to the tank (7 - RWC operating diagram below). If as you write it should work properly, dropping excess fuel when the engine is turned off. The cause of the overflow obstruction may be blockage of the overflow flexible pipe with some impurities, also its bending, which prevents quick release of fuel to the tank. The tank is still under high pressure, which the computer sees with fuel pressure sensor . Therefore, it still electrically supplies the injectors for a few seconds after removing the key from the ignition, trying to burn excess fuel. Clearing the overflow returns the engine to full efficiency. 2. Whether ignition is turned off when the key is removed, or vice versa - the contacts stick and the engine continues to run because it is in the ignition position and not stop? 3. Is working properly double relay (in the black plastic box with the injection computer)? It usually stops working when damaged. Sometimes you have to encourage him to fulfill his role using ... safety pins as in the photo below. However, there are cases, as in the ignition switch, that the contacts in the relay stick together in the active position and zrwc , as well as the electric pump in the tank are still operating at full capacity despite removing the key. The high pressure fuel circuit is still full, so the computer must somehow drain it, as mentioned. Kitten KotBury2

damiankonto509 · Answer

The car returned to the mechanic. They checked the injection and it turned out that one pouring heavily and the other three are also to be replaced or regenerated. Injections have been changed to efficient used and the car still does not go as it should. Sensors have also been checked and look functional. It looks like it could be something with a pump like a colleague wrote.

damiankonto509 · Answer

I will add that earlier, when the key from the ignition key was turned a few times, the car started and walked normally, i.e. the engine indicator light was on but after a while it went out but on the second day it started again and the engine went out while driving and the computer entered the emergency mode. Turning the key helped for about 3 days and then even it did not help.

greetings

Anonymous · Answer

There was no question of stalling the engine while driving, only that it did not want to go out after removing the key from the ignition. It completely changes the form of things, because then other elements are guilty than the ones I mentioned regarding non-termination. So in the first place it goes electric pump in the tank (BOSCH system only). If it does not get electrical power for the cables and / or the plug, or if there are shaky contacts, the motor will go out or will not start, depending on whether the contact is or not. And the problem of not going out can come, as I mentioned, from a faulty ignition, maybe a key (did you try a spare key?). The control computer may also be damaged. So you basically have three suspicious components: an electric pump, an ignition switch and also engine control computer . The latter can cause the symptoms you have presented for a simple reason. Namely, if there is uncertain contact on weight computer, or power supply , it will operate during these breaks and connections on ground or + power. So the engine will go off while driving or will continue to work after removing the key. Kitten KotBury2

damiankonto509 · Answer

The car came back from the mechanic 5 days ago during the return, once went out, then it started up normally and no indicator was displayed. A few hours later, the yellow engine light came on and the car was in emergency mode again. After a while, the indicator went out and everything was back to normal, i.e. the car still works as it should, except that sometimes the engine gently waves at revolutions at a standstill. The mechanic replaced all four injections with other used ones, and I noticed that the air was gently escaping from one injection because it was spilled with oil and there were air bubbles. Could this be the reason for the motor waving from time to time?

kortyleski · Answer

May or may not. But it needs to be improved quickly because you will burn out the nest and you will replace the head

damiankonto509 · Answer

I'm sick of this car. Today he started to smoke hard regardless of whether the engine is cold or warm. After about 5-7 seconds, the filming only starts

Anonymous · Answer

Has anything been done about the above? If you have any purges on the injectors, all four have been replaced and the fault returns the same, which means that the injection was needed like a fish towel! Is anyone there thinking something ? You should return the complaint to the mechanic, let him set the injectors 100% efficiency, not 50%. It is not enough to change the injection, cancel the money and throw the driver behind the gate with advice: go on from here alone . This is a gathering, not a solid repair! The reasons other than the injectors have been calculated for you, why did you deal with them and not what was indicated? What about high pressure control valve (zrwc) (6) as shown below? Check these two things from the beginning and if they are impeccable, we'll take care of further - if of course you want help? What is the injection system? Is it BOSCH with a low pressure electric supply pump, or SIEMENS without this pump? Instead of an electric pump there should be a hand pump (pear). What can you see under the hood? Maybe a piece of photo? This is very important information because of the system boschowskim is in the low pressure circuit hypertension and Siemens underpressure . This raises the key issue, namely whether the high pressure pump (pwc) receives exactly the pressurized fuel from low pressure 2.5-6 bar (green - picture below)? If he receives e.g. 1-1.5 bar , because the fuel filter (19) is clogged metal shavings , or the system is pestilential - even if you snag, the engine will not start and will not work properly. Because neither pwc (10), nor the injectors (1-4) receive start pressure 150-200 bar (red), just say 80-100 bar . While driving there are also strong disturbances, pressure surges, which translates directly into jerking, uneven turns, as mentioned. All elements of very high pressure, i.e. pwc (10), zrwc (9) and injectors (1-4), fuel pressure sensor (7), fuel temperature sensor (6) are in impeccable condition and there is low pressure. However, the mechanic, unlike the plane - chooses stubbornly maniac for high pressure, and there is no clarity as to low pressure. Therefore, I repeat the question whether the low pressure fuel flow from the tank (24) through the pre-filter (23), main filter (19) ( warning! in the filter cover can work pressure valve , which has broken down or contaminated - photo below - red arrow), and at the entrance to pwc (10) finished? Do it right, not the head. Otherwise you will not drive, just keep complaining that the engine ... Kitten KotBury2

damiankonto509 · Answer

It turned out that the fuel regulator at the pump is to be replaced and the high pressure pump needles because there were a lot of swarf in the place of the regulator. After connecting the second regulator, everything is fine except that the engine sometimes gently waves with revolutions and the mechanic is in the process of determining the cause of this wave. That is to say, the high pressure pump and regulator need to be replaced, and the whole system will probably be cleaned. And I will add that the injections have been checked and have correct transfers.

EndrjuWiwi · Answer

The high pressure pump can also be regenerated. And it will definitely come out cheaper for you. Bosch CP?

damiankonto509 · Answer

Bosch pump like the rest.

Kapizion · Answer

The pressure regulator on the toilet pump is guilty to clean the fuel filter system and remove the strainer from the regulator, because of this trash the regulator stops working, kills and swarf

pepe150 · Answer

And the filings are still in the system and damage further elements of the fuel system (injectors). Harmful advice!

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