Peugeot 407 SW 2.0 HDI 136HP - Auto jerks or goes out, error P1166 and P1164

Hello
Maybe someone will help me. For some time I have a problem with the car going out, usually jerks for a while with a stronger addition of gas and sometimes the extinguishing seems without reason ... This problem had already before the mechanic replaced the fuel filter and the crankshaft position sensor and was calm for 3-4 months but for some time the problem has come back again ... I don't know if something is happening again or something new but with similar symptoms. Apparently, the injections show abnormal ...
He sends me the error codes P1166 and P1164
P1166 -> High pressure fuel regulation, Measured rail pressure higher than the maximum pressure
P1166 -> Fuel pressure control. Pressure too high.
P1164 -> Fuel pressure sensor test, SID 801 - Fuel pressure signal.
P1164 -> Transient error, fuel pressure signal, pressure change consistency

After errors, it seems that the pressure on the strip is too high or the pressure sensor is broken and maybe it is worth starting with.

It is also possible that the fuel pump feels bad, or it is also worth cleaning the injection or replacing it

norbertos988 wrote:

the fuel pump is not feeling well

I think the pump can handle it because the pressure is too high.

Today my car stopped on a cold engine after driving 20 m: / Just went out and did not want to start ... only after about 5 minutes and using the spray starter I was able to start again and drive almost 30km without a problem ...
When I came home, I did not turn off the car and another error appeared to me P0337-> Crankshaft position sensor A low input signal, P0336 Crankshaft position sensor A - signal out of range
It seems to me that when the timing was replaced it was possible that special attention was not paid to this sensor ... or even accidentally damaged ...
Where exactly is this sensor located? I am asking for an explanation like this for a layman because I am not a specialist myself and I do not even know the elements in the car, it is best if you can take the photo with a clearly marked element. Thanks in advance

Good morning
I'll step on it. My C5 2.0 hdi RHF 140 KM went out while driving and it won't start. The "magic box" showed the errors: P1351 - glow plug circuit, P1164 and P1166 both point to the fuel high pressure circuit, the parameter preview showed the start fuel pressure 150 to 160 MPa, which is 1600 bar. This is the maximum performance of the toilet pump, does it mean a damaged or clogged or jammed fuel pressure regulator? Or maybe something else?
There was still an error P0336, but after it was deleted, it did not appear again.

if the pressure sensor on the rail is damaged, you will not start the car. Check that there is no oil on the plug from the rail pressure sensor, I recently processed it in 1.6 hdi and 2.0 hdi, I started the plug from the rail and the car went out amen. Until the pressure comes off the rail, you will not start the car

The car cannot be started at all, even after a few days of inactivity.
The magic box, when the ignition is turned on, gives a pressure of zero. At
turning the starter, the pressure reading increases quickly to about 150 MPa.
As long as it spins, it maintains that pressure; after releasing the key and stopping it,
the pressure reading slowly drops to zero.

question the fuel filter has been replaced?

Soon the time will come, because for 2,000 km oil change,
and I change the fuel filter every two oil changes.

replace the fuel filter at the beginning, this is my advice

In addition, because in the heat of the battle it fled:
it's not the first time it's gone out.
The first time it went out while driving was about two months ago.
Just - yes - it has gone out, without symptoms, freaking, jittery,
it just drove on and went out. By the force of my momentum, I rolled to my place
on the street and parked. The starter cranked but the engine would not fire.
There is a message that the electric brake is malfunctioning
parking, although this one worked flawlessly. He reappeared fairly quickly
ECONOMY MODE ACTIVE. But maybe it's because the battery is 4 years old.
The next day it fired, admittedly with the "helicopter" icon, but
I got home. I connected my "magic box" for 4 tenants
and I read errors P0336, P1351, P1166 on a free application on a smurfon
and P1164, which after deleting and re-firing several times
have not returned. Then, after a good month, the car went out while driving
again, but after the car stopped at the edge of the street, it fired at the first
together. The check icon flashed on and went out after being triggered several times
engine. Same errors again and again did not return after being deleted.
A few days ago, the car went out again while driving and this time it is no longer working
to run. Errors P1164 and P1166 after resetting and attempting to start
they are coming back. The parameter reading shows that the fuel pressure is zero on
idle, when you try to start it quickly increases to 150 or even 160 Mpa,
which is the maximum efficiency of the toilet pump. She keeps it that way while filming
when stopped, it slowly drops to zero.

Hello,

Please check what the CR injection looks like. And take a look at what you got there. In addition to the high pressure pump, you also have: a maximum pressure limiter, a pressure regulator controlled from the ECU, a pressure transducer to measure this pressure and the injections themselves.
Maybe the pressure regulator is the problem, as it regulates the correct pressure. The problem may be the injections themselves, so check the injection corrections on the working engine. or the pressure overflow itself.

I used to be mechanics in P407 2.0HDI 2007. they wanted to replace the filter, pump, regulator, rail, all injections one by one. And it turned out that one injection, when it got the temperature, poured down and the pressure on the rail decreased, but it was noticeable after the injection corrections - tracked while driving until the error occurred.
We can't solve everything for you. We can only guide you. The order of replacement should also be decided by the price of new parts, so if the limiter or regulator is cheaper than the pump and injectors, then they should go to the first fire.

Forgive me for being out of touch for so long. The car, after a few days "by itself," started up. Just like that, by itself.
Then the situation repeated again in March and again in July. I came to my senses
and began to ask someone wiser than myself. And someone (I will not advertise him because he runs a workshop
and specializes in Citrines) advised me to "in the dark" replace the main shaft sensor.
If this does not help, then bring him the car.
The sensor did not cost much, so I replaced it.
O!!!!! Play the trumpets of triumph!!!!! The car healed, and from now on, it starts at the sight of the key. Zero problems.
I'm such a mechanic/electronics/diagnostician, but it counts that I "fixed it".