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Mercedes W210 3.2CDi - goes out, starts after a while, error P0190

wojtekcichy 7554 17
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  • #1 16260500
    wojtekcichy
    Level 11  
    Hello.
    Mercedes w210 3.2CDi engine. The car came to me with the problem of extinguishing while driving plus a Christmas tree when turning on the horn or traffic lights. I found a loose mass from the car body but the extinguishing problem remained.
    In addition, after a spontaneous extinction, the car cannot be started for some time and the error p0190 appears. I noticed that after the car goes off spontaneously, the sensor shows that there is high pressure in the rail and the car will not start until the pressure drops to 0-5 bar. Pressure regulator looks recently replaced, original Bosch, clean, o-rings okay.
    Where is the pressure from? Or maybe this pressure is not there at all, but the pressure sensor becomes stupid when it goes out on its own?
    When the car is turned off normally with the key, the pressure drops to 0-5bar and the car can be started normally.
    The car fires in 2 turns, the pressure on the rail at idle 250-300bar, corrections on the injections within the range -1.5 to +1.5, does not wave, does not choke.

    Today, a moment before the spontaneous fading out, I heard squeaks as if from some bearing and it turns out that the clutch on the alternator is worn. Can power surges cause the car to stall? Maybe a diode? Tomorrow, I pull out the alternator, measure the diodes and replace the wheel.
    On a running engine, disconnecting the pressure sensor causes it to fall into emergency mode, but not to extinguish it, the same after disconnecting the shaft sensor. Only disconnecting the pressure regulator causes the car to go out.
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  • #2 16260522
    fuelinyourblood
    Level 35  
    What's your voltage on the pressure sensor? At rest and free?
  • #3 16260586
    wojtekcichy
    Level 11  
    On which pins should it be measured because they are 3. And what should it be?
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  • #4 16260697
    fuelinyourblood
    Level 35  
    Measure between 1 and 3 on the replaced sensor. It should be around 5V.

    On the middle with the plug plugged in, about 1V free.
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  • #5 16261698
    wojtekcichy
    Level 11  
    on 1 and 3 - 5v
    in the middle it is about half a volt at rest and at idle 1.3v.
    I think it will be something with the pressure sensor or its wiring, after the car goes out, the sensor shows that there is still pressure in the rail, then the pressure regulator will not open and the car will not start?
    Today, on a cold car, after turning off the car by removing the plug from the pressure regulator, the car fires normally, i.e. the problem occurs on a warm engine.
    Okay, this heats the car and I will check the hot voltage on the pressure sensor.
    So it may be that the pressure sensor shows too high pressure, the computer closes the pressure regulator and the car goes out.
    If there is a problem with not firing, I will try to start the car with the pressure sensor unplugged, then the car should run in emergency mode.
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  • #6 16261727
    fuelinyourblood
    Level 35  
    Tension is okay. Did you check the injectors on the return?
  • #7 16261854
    wojtekcichy
    Level 11  
    Yes, overflow injections are okay. Today, the car fires normally and does not go out. I don't know anymore, I bent the sensor cables in all directions and nothing, no error. The alternator outside the wheel is functional, so it also falls out. I have been sitting for an hour and watching, the pressure is at 270bar, the voltage does not jump, the solenoid opening does not drop to 0. I wait until it goes out to see what is happening with the values at that moment.
    EDIT:
    The question is what pressure should be on the rail for the car to start? It normally shows up to around 270 and fires. At the time of not launching, I remember that it showed about 700.
  • #8 16262078
    fuelinyourblood
    Level 35  
    Sticky beam or defective pressure sensor.
  • #9 16262367
    diesel022782
    Level 17  
    wojtekcichy wrote:
    Hello.
    Mercedes w210 3.2CDi engine. The car came to me with the problem of extinguishing while driving plus a Christmas tree when turning on the horn or traffic lights. I found a loose mass from the car body but the extinguishing problem remained.
    In addition, after a spontaneous extinction, the car cannot be started for some time and the error p0190 appears. I noticed that after the car goes off spontaneously, the sensor shows that there is high pressure in the rail and the car will not start until the pressure drops to 0-5 bar. Pressure regulator looks recently replaced, original Bosch, clean, o-rings okay.
    Where is the pressure from? Or maybe this pressure is not there at all, but the pressure sensor becomes stupid when it goes out on its own?
    When the car is turned off normally with the key, the pressure drops to 0-5bar and the car can be started normally.
    The car fires in 2 turns, the pressure on the rail at idle 250-300bar, corrections on the injections within the range -1.5 to +1.5, does not wave, does not choke.

    Today, a moment before the spontaneous fading out, I heard squeaks as if from some bearing and it turns out that the clutch on the alternator is worn. Can power surges cause the car to stall? Maybe a diode? Tomorrow, I pull out the alternator, measure the diodes and replace the wheel.
    On a running engine, disconnecting the pressure sensor causes it to fall into emergency mode, but not to extinguish it, the same after disconnecting the shaft sensor. Only disconnecting the pressure regulator causes the car to go out.
    you compared pressure with a rail pressure gauge, is it really so?
  • #10 16262557
    wojtekcichy
    Level 11  
    No, I don't have a pressure gauge for these pressures.
  • #11 16262760
    diesel022782
    Level 17  
    wojtekcichy wrote:
    No, I don't have a pressure gauge for these pressures.
    and it will be difficult to compare whether the sensor is telling the truth, you have to measure this real value, it will limit the diagnosis
  • #12 16262865
    szymitsu21
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    it is not possible for the system to maintain pressure after extinguishing. and certainly not 700bar.

    My colleague fuelinyourblood speaks well.
  • #13 16262949
    marfur30
    Level 27  
    On a cold engine, heat the sensor with a heat gun and see if it goes out.
  • #14 16263020
    diesel022782
    Level 17  
    szymitsu21 wrote:
    it is not possible for the system to maintain pressure after extinguishing. and certainly not 700bar.

    My colleague fuelinyourblood speaks well.
    at 700 bar it will not even run immediately, 350 should be nominal, after extinguishing 5 to 10 bar, also not always for sure not such a high pressure
  • #15 16264139
    EndrjuWiwi
    Level 10  
    There is no chance that there would be such high pressure without a running pump. Probably your pressure sensor is broken. If you do not know who to turn to, write, I will tell you Good luck
  • #16 16264627
    wojtekcichy
    Level 11  
    Today on the advice of a friend marfur30 I heated the sensor and it didn't take 30 seconds for the engine to go out.
    Of course, the sensor shows after 800bar, the computer closes the pressure regulator and the car goes out. After disconnecting the plug, the car started immediately.
    Screen with pressure chart and pressure regulator
    Mercedes W210 3.2CDi - goes out, starts after a while, error P0190
    Thanks to everyone for the advice, the sensor is going to be replaced and the problem is solved :)
  • #17 16264865
    diesel022782
    Level 17  
    wojtekcichy wrote:
    Today on the advice of a friend marfur30 I heated the sensor and it didn't take 30 seconds for the engine to go out.
    Of course, the sensor shows after 800bar, the computer closes the pressure regulator and the car goes out. After disconnecting the plug, the car started immediately.
    Screen with pressure chart and pressure regulator
    Mercedes W210 3.2CDi - goes out, starts after a while, error P0190
    Thanks to everyone for the advice, the sensor is going to be replaced and the problem is solved :)
    Well, with a manometer you would see what's going on right away, but ok, it's okay, cheers
  • #18 16265611
    wojtekcichy
    Level 11  
    You will have to get such a pressure gauge for the future.
    One more question.
    There are 2 types of sensor, they differ in thread diameter and price, or something else?
    0 281 002 942 - larger thread diameter and cost about PLN 180
    0 281 002 498 - smaller thread diameter and cost about PLN 680
    The more expensive one is screwed in this case. Both can be screwed into the strip, one through reductions.
    The only question is whether they both work the same?

    EDIT 11-02-2017
    So after unscrewing the reduction and screwing in the 0 281 002 942 sensor, it only screws 1.5-2 turns because it is blocked by a pin in the middle of the strip (the reduction is empty), although the sensor works the same, but 2 turns is not enough at this pressure .
    So the sensor 0 281 002 498 was installed. The client decided to use a used one, but for PLN 150 I got quite nice and, above all, functional. Topic completed, thank you all.

Topic summary

The discussion revolves around a Mercedes W210 3.2CDi experiencing spontaneous engine shutdowns while driving, accompanied by error code P0190. The user identified a loose ground connection but the issue persisted. They noted that after the engine shuts off, the fuel rail pressure remains high (up to 700 bar), preventing the car from restarting until the pressure drops to 0-5 bar. Various suggestions were made, including checking the voltage on the pressure sensor, inspecting the injectors, and verifying the pressure readings with a gauge. Ultimately, it was determined that the pressure sensor was faulty, as heating it caused the engine to shut down due to incorrect pressure readings. The user replaced the sensor, resolving the issue.
Summary generated by the language model.
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