Boiler as in the topic, powered by propane-butane from the cylinder. The whole house heating 100% floor heating. Distributor on automatic valves on each loop - how the room sensor will note the appropriate temperature closes individual loops. Everything works but I wanted to find out what the correct value of heating CO set on the boiler. With water, a simple matter - how much I set so much I have in the tray but with heating ... on the eye I have 40 * C set and it's warm. But maybe you need to change it to a higher or lower value to bake ... I do not know, he worked shorter or he used less gas. In general, it would be more economical. Is it irrelevant whether I am set to 40 or 80 * C?
From what you write it concludes that the thermostats only work on the valves on the loop and the stove probably on the jumper and it goes on a fixed parameter or unconstrained with thermostats, ehh bills good by 20-30 percent more, unless you write something more about the installation, is coupling? is it directly from the stove to the floor beam?
There is a clutch. Everything works correctly in my opinion, the pump which on the separator "active" means as each individual loop closes (heating the rooms) reduces its speed and often even stands because all the loops closed - in the apartment warm. The pump is standing, the boiler also - it happens that hours do not turn on because there is no need. The only question is whether this supply temperature or currently set 40 * C for heating is a correct value or eg ... I do not know, increase it so that the boiler heats harder but shorter ?? The installer set to 40 * C with information: if it's cold you can turn thermostats in rooms for more, as it is not enough, raise the temperature on the boiler at 50 * C. After all, the temperature on thermostats in the rooms from 23-24 * C decreased to 21 because there was a sauna in the cottage, especially at nights it was impossible to sleep because it was too hot and too dry. Temp. in the rooms we do not regulate day / night because it does not make sense. Switching to 18-19 * C for the night, I would have to make it around 15.00 so that around 23 o'clock it was around 19 * C. Up raises quickly - worse with cooling down.
Parameters, unfortunately, will not check because you need to do this q sense or sense, from what you write, however, that control thermostats on the loops is somehow coupled with the stove and well. The temperature in the rooms set 18-19 night 20-21 days should be enough, the temp on the furnace the lower it is best to set it at 50 degrees if there is a clutch because at 40 as will be turned on, for example, only one loop floor can work, how will the big frosts and you can not bask at 50 give 60, for sure, do not go below 40.
If a new house, well insulated, it may be 40 degrees. As you give less, the boiler will go longer, but at a lower power, but the electricity will take more (blower, pump, electronics, actuators too). Often, for solid-fuel boilers, eg feeder, I set the customer at 30-32 ° C for continuous operation and it is usually enough to heat the house in 90% of cases, and if necessary the automation will cut the loop so as not to overheat. With gas it is pointless to heat all the time from a low temperature when there is a floor water heater (although there are opposite opinions) because you will save 1-2% on gas (better efficiency of the boiler) and you will lose 2x as much on the current and consumption of the boiler. At a higher temperature of 40-45 degrees, the boiler turns on for a few hours and there is no temperature metastasis even with simple two-state control. In addition, it is easy to leave the floor temperature overnight (recommended in the bedrooms) and rebuild in the morning, 2 hours in advance, according to the daily or weekly regulator. As for wear it is best to experiment in several similarly temperature days with different settings.
Hello, I'll step on. I have the same boiler + isense + will be regulators in the rooms and bathrooms and I have a tangle of temperature control. At isense, I have set, for example, temp 19st. (in the living room), in the rooms I want to set a higher, for example, by 3 degrees. How do you get it? Because as I understand it isense will turn off the boiler at 19st. I was thinking about increasing flows on loops in rooms and bathrooms. Is this a good reasoning? However, the installer proposed an additional room regulator (next to isense), which will control the servo loop actuators. Of course, the other loops will also have actuators. In this case isense wants to set the temperature higher than on the controller next to it - well ok. But until isense does not read the temperature of the environment identical to that set, it will give information to the boiler to heat it. How to solve it?
For me, room controllers are currently limited only to the temperature control in the rooms if I wanted to be cooler than the boiler controller gives, that is 23 * C. The controller will work by closing the individual heating loops with the valve in the switch cabinet. As far as I know, iSense does not read the temperature from room sensors only from the boiler by measuring the supply and return water temperature. Room sensors are responsible only for the operation of the actuators on individual loops by opening or closing them. The controller is set in the range of 20-23 * C and that's what it gives in what For this, the circulation pump automatically selects the speed: the more open systems the faster it works, as it closes the subsequent loops it slows down. The first winter it took to regulate the flows on each loop to heat as we like it ie in the bathroom, where there are tiles or in the dining room under the table to be constantly warm floor and eg in the corridors or bedrooms only when it warms up
Isense does not read from regulators, I know, but has a temperature sensor inside. Until the temperature reaches the set temperature in the isense, the stove is running. And as I wrote, what if in the rooms (on the regulators) I set the temperature higher than the one I set on isense? Logical - the stove will not burn. So I see two exits - either to increase flows in the rooms' loops, or, as the installer claimed, to add an additional regulator in the living room connected to the actuators, hmm?