Setting the parameters of the Dietrich amc 25 condensing gas furnace

Question

Hello, I have a beautiful new Dietrich AMC25 furnace installed. I have a question about setting up the furnace for the winter. The installer mentioned the economical use of the heating curve, but this is not present in the settings with the current configuration, but from the beginning. 1) An...

Zbigniew Rusek · Accepted Answer

80 and even more so 85 degrees is too much (radiators that hot can cause burns) and I suggest that it be no more than 75 degrees (such a radiator can burn anyway, but it would be at a frost of 20 degrees - as the maximum, and in a typical winter - 50-55 degrees).

Wojewoda82 · Accepted Answer

Ok, 200 m2 in a not new construction will amount to approximately 16-18 KW of heat needed in the coldest weather at -20. Around 0 degrees it will be 7-8KW. I count pi times by eye because I don`t know the shape of the building, the material it is made of, the climate zone, the temperature you want in the house, etc. In this case, the sparse clocking will only be at very spring temperatures of around 10 above. 17 radiators, no matter what they are, are a large battery, so you can probably run them at around 40 degrees Celsius in the spring and autumn periods and it will be OK. Here, a weather forecast makes perfect sense considering the power of the boiler and the size of the building. The upper limit you need to set on the central heating supply so that, for example, -20 is OK at home, you can determine from practice how much you have had on the boiler so far. probably around 60-65 degrees, depending on the size of the radiators. The calorific value of birch is approximately 1900kWh/m3 and that of coal is 8000kWh/ton. This gives 29,300KWh of potential heat needed. You probably burned it in a regular feed furnace or a mix of a retort and a fireplace. So we multiply it by the average efficiency of 60%, which gives 17,580 kWh of real heat from the previous fuel. This means that you will need approximately 1,600 m3 of gas per year in a condensing boiler, which gives you a bill of approximately PLN 3,150 for gas fuel alone, plus approximately PLN 600 for the subscription fee (W-3 bank tariff). Of course, these are estimates and also depend on the severity of the winter, the length of the heating season, etc

dobroslaw · Accepted Answer

How many heating circuits do you have, do you have a hydraulic coupling or 1 direct circuit, this boiler has a lot of configuration options, and it works with both open and on-off thermostats, some circuits just need to be turned off, if you have 1 direct circuit it can be turned on both in circ and circ a1 . Circ and you connect the thermostat to the front plate behind the display as well as the domestic hot water sensor if the tank goes directly from the boiler to. You connect Cirk A1 to the side plate, it can also be either direct or with your own pump through the clutch, you connect the thermostat to the jumper in the side plate, and Cirk A, as it is not used, can be made inactive. This boiler has such extensive automation that service technicians have problems with its configuration and it is difficult to explain without being near the boiler, and the installer apparently did not fully configure and explain it, you may need help from a good service center check whether the boiler has been registered at all.

Panderecki · Answer

Thank you for your answer, are only these settings sufficient for the heating season? The stove is set to heat in winter from 15°C and will turn on according to: external sensor. I will correct my question - is it possible and how to set the room temperature range to which the stove should heat? Is it regulated by radiator thermostats in each room? With this furnace setting, there is no heating curve, max temperature, etc.

Wojewoda82 · Answer

You didn`t say what radiators you have, how many of them and what power they have at 50/40 or 50/30, and what year the building is. Do you heat an apartment or house, how many meters? What is the warming like? How quickly does it cool down? How much heat energy you will have to supply to your apartment/house depends on your demand at a given internal and external temperature. This translates into what temperature will have to be set on radiators of a given size for e.g. -10 and -20. By the way, do you have underfloor heating or radiators? Because there are so many variables and you haven`t provided any data. To make it simpler, please provide how much gas/coal you have burned over the last year and in what boiler, if you have such data. Or count and enter the result from the website But be careful, the website has been showing some strange things lately. It shows me the demand is twice as high as I last counted (and what was more or less obtained from combustion was slightly smaller due to the milder winter), no matter how I enter for the apartment what is above me and what is below me. In general, weather control of a gas boiler is very convenient, but you need to spend a lot of time alone and look for the right settings, i.e. the heating curve settings (for example, the a and b parameters for the y=ax+b chart), the reaction delay time (if there is also such an adjustment in this boiler) etc PS DD AMC 25 has a minimum power for 50/30 5.5KW. If you have a warm new house up to 100-120 m2 or, for example, a moderately insulated apartment of 70 m2, the boiler will operate at this minimum power non-stop at frosts of around -20 to -25. If it is as I write, I have no idea why you need weather control. Then you set the minimum temperature at which the radiators will receive the 5.5KW, and the boiler will still operate for 95% of the heating season. If it is as I write, a room thermostat or a more advanced programmer would be better. Sam has a DD but MCR Home with a minimum power of 5.2 kW and the boiler has not yet operated longer than 10-12 hours a day with a battery of radiators in an almost uninsulated apartment of 67 m2 on the ground floor. The temperature setting is 48 degrees, constant. In heavier frosts, I set it to 50, only because raising the temperature by 1 degree in the morning took a bit too long for my liking. If you had a DD AMC 15 boiler, it would be a completely different conversation, there is a minimum of 3.4KW

Panderecki · Answer

Thank you for the extensive answer I don`t know if these missing data will explain the situation with the configuration of my stove, but they will certainly help in determining perhaps certain parameters. Copper installation, 17 radiators in total, detached building, 200 m2 of floor space with basements (house from 1993), heating without underfloor heating, no external insulation, solidly insulated flat roof. When it comes to heating in previous years, combustion amounted to approximately 7 m3 of firewood - birch and 2 T of coal.

Panderecki · Answer

I just set it to 60°C Thank you, Mr. Voivoda82, for the calculations, let me just say that I am counting on a maximum of PLN 4,000 for the heating season, i.e. for 6 months. Maybe there is an installer or dietrich amc25 user on the forum and will tell you how to set the CIRCA settings

Panderecki · Answer

Looking from above from the photo CIRCA on the tile, despite setting temperatures from 7 p.m. to 9 p.m. during the day, writes that the frost protection mode is set. Is this supposed to be the case at + temperatures outside the window? However, if the setting is the same but CIRCA1, the correct set program is displayed on the tile. I`m already crazy because I don`t want or have a division into zones 1 and 2

Panderecki · Answer

I have 1 heating circuit for the entire house. The stove also heats domestic hot water - this is OK. I have a thermostat on each radiator. The central heating or hot water supply is connected to the smaller board under the display, I know one thing for sure. From my tests, when I turn on CIRCA, after the configuration it seems that the stove does not see what I have set, because the information on the tile is: freeze protection and 6°C and when I turn on CIRCA1, I set it the same way as with CIRCA and the information on the tile is the given program. But I still don`t know if I`m doing it right, because, as you also noticed, the installer didn`t explain everything to me (set it up) :) I am waiting for you, dear installer

dobroslaw · Answer

If he can`t handle it, call a warranty service, De Dietrich has a good approach to both installers and customers, and a good service will usually schedule such services for DD consultations, especially when it comes to new boilers and their configurations

Panderecki · Answer

Welcome back, I have hot water connected to the front plate behind the display and central heating to the side plate, i.e. CIRCA1, and the external temperature sensor is probably also under the side plate. Maximum temperature set to 65 degrees, heating curve for 1.4 manual, non-programmed temperature regulation at 20 degrees, and heating is activated below 18 degrees outside. (of course, you can also set it programmatically, i.e. the set temperature at a given time) maybe someone will find the settings and comments on the configuration of the Dietrich amc 25 boiler useful.

Panderecki · Answer

Does anyone know if, when setting the boiler to a specific heating program, if the weather conditions do not allow it to turn on automatically, it is possible to force the heating - with a constant set value of the water heating temperature in the circulation, e.g. 35 degrees? If so, what if the stove calculates the set temperature, e.g. 25 degrees?

Panderecki · Answer

Hello after a year. I would like to share my observations on the use of the Dietrich amc 25 boiler, maybe the information will be useful for future generations. The cost of heating after the previous winter from the beginning of the heating season until spring is approximately PLN 3,000, with additional heating of utility water. Heating domestic hot water in the spring-summer season costs approximately PLN 100 per month. I recommend changing the contract with PGNiG to monthly settlement. House approximately 150 m2, roof insulated with PUR foam, amazing effects. Settings: with external temperature sensor The set maximum temperature is 65 degrees Celsius heating curve for 1.4 (sometimes in early autumn it can be set to 1.3, in case of greater frosts it can be set to 1.5 dependence of the desired temperature on the outside temperature.) temperature on the curve at 0 degrees outside - 45 degrees water. temperature control: programming Saturday and Sunday settings: morning 22, at home 22, night 19. Monday - Friday settings: morning 22, away from home 20, at home 22, night 19. (sometimes, when the outside temperature is about 16-18 degrees and there is a need to start the stove, I temporarily manually set the forced heating to 40 degrees of central heating water. DHW: comfort mode: 45 degrees, constant temperature. The siphon and other components inside the boiler did not require cleaning/service after a year of use.

wnowak · Answer

De Dietrich AMC 15 stove I do not have any temperature controllers connected: neither weather nor room. Somehow, I managed to heat the spout according to the program. Now I would like to maintain a constant supply temperature throughout the winter (because I don`t have thermostats yet). I don`t understand how it works. The burner settings have the following parameters: AP002 Manual heat demand. I set it to value 1 = with setpoint AP026 Flow temperature for manual heat demand. Set 20 °C. Also in the zone settings. CP010 The leaving water setpoint for the zone, used when the zone is set to a fixed leaving water setpoint. Set 25 °C. CP320 Zone operating mode. Set 1 = Manual In which zone should I configure the temperature if there is no thermostat connected to any of them? The supply temperature in the signals is 13 °C and the stove is not burning yet. QUESTION: Which of these temperatures is taken into account by the furnace: from the burner AP026 or from the zone CP010 ?

Panderecki · Answer

I`m not sure whether you actually mean manual setting of the heat demand, as you write in the first case, or maybe a set constant temperature value. In this case, the water heating should be about 40 degrees. (This is the water heating temperature, not the desired room temperature). This would probably be good in your case. Because you don`t have a weather sensor or room thermostat. As for zones, it depends on how the installer connected it to a small or large board. Theoretically, it`s not important (I think) as long as it`s in the settings section. Yes, it must be manual mode (in your case), not programming. and whether it works can be seen by the icon on the stove. IMPORTANT: 1) if you set it as I wrote at the very beginning, the boiler heats water according to: set constant temperature. Please set e.g. to 40 degrees. in this case, what you set in the zone will not work. 2) Please try like this. Turn off the constant desired temperature, and set the ZONE as you write and it should work according to the zone settings (but I don`t know how the stove will set the temperature because it does not have a sensor.

wnowak · Answer

Since I don`t have a thermostat, I guess I can`t set the temperature in the room? I mean setting the temperature of the water flowing from the stove. What does Manual heat demand mean? I thought this meant manually set water temperature... In the description it says Set supply temperature for manual heat demand. So, I set the supply temperature to +20 °C. I set the zone to +25 °C to check which of these temperatures the stove will take into account and I still don`t know. My room temperature is +12 °C - it could be lower - somewhere up to +5 °C, so I guess a power supply around +20 °C should be enough? Condensation from the stove collected in the bucket overnight, which proves that the stove was burning gas at night. When I look at the stove, the burner is not working at 0%. With +40 °C water heating, the temperature in the room could rise to twenty degrees. This is a house under construction - not inhabited, so I don`t need such a temperature, and I want to save gas. Next year I will have a thermostat. Tomorrow I will go to the construction site and I will try to combine what you wrote. This furnace can control one zone managed by the CU-GH08 board (zone thermostat connected to the CB-03 board): CIRCA and 3 zones connected to the SCB-10 board: CIRCA1 , CIRCB1 , CIRCC1 . Moreover, you can also set the temperature outside all zones - on the burner itself, as I wrote AP026 . How does this stove know which zone it is sending hot water to now and which temperature it should take into account...

Panderecki · Answer

I feel obliged to explain. I have it connected like this CU-GH08 DHW a to SCB-10-1 CIRCA1 CO zone with an external weather controller. In your case it`s probably the equivalent A.P., C.P . In the tile where the CIRCA1 zone is set, for me it is important: 1) Mode: programming (set for a given day and time desired room temperature i Manual constant temperature requested every day and at any time. 2) Temperature settings (applies to programming mode) That`s all I have set and it`s heating. What`s next... I mentioned earlier there are situations when it`s +15 degrees outside, the boiler heats the water barely, let`s say 30 degrees and my wife says it`s cold. This is how I do it: In this window I choose Manual heat demand I set it to 40 degrees. YES water temperature. It may be misleading to say that the value you gave was only 20 degrees. NOTE: When setting this, this will be the overarching setting. This means that the boiler will continuously heat water to 20 degrees. Please try to turn it off (not set) and set the temperature in the zone. That`s right, he knows because the installer connected only one specific one. I`m not an expert, but it seems to me that you can connect it to other zones, e.g. underfloor heating or, say, a garage. It seems to me that in your case it will be the main one without the number. either the zone and the set temperature (weather controller, thermostat, as I wrote above, or manual heat demand. I was also wondering if it`s allowed to do that.

Panderecki · Answer

Hello, I have another question for the more advanced ones de dietrich AMC 25 The last tile - where the Summer/Winter/Frost protection seasonal mode is. Temp. external temperature below which frost protection is activated. What should the approximate value of this temperature be? and where you can set the parameters of this frost protection. ? The point is that when I have the programming mode set, let`s say 21 degrees at given hours, and with the Tzew setting. frost protection -3, then above this temperature (-3 outside), the winter mode is displayed and the boiler heats according to the set temperature. Let`s say it heats the water in the circulation at 45 degrees, and when the outside temperature drops below -3, the Tz mode is activated. protection against frost and the boiler circulates water at 62 degrees. According to what settings does the boiler determine the circulation temperature? I cannot find the Frost Protection mode settings. (please do not confuse it with setting the modes: programming, manual, frost protection and vacation).

wnowak · Answer

Thanks, Mr. Panderecki. I`m sorry it took a while, because I don`t have the Internet at the construction site yet to respond to the forum looking at the parameters of the furnace. The previous answers and my experiments led me to control the circulation temperature without weather and room thermostats installed. I don`t know if everything is clear from the above posts, because it may be a bit confusing, but if anyone has any questions about it, just ask and I will try to explain. You can set both a constant flow temperature on the burner CircA as well as on the plate SCB-10 : : CircA1 , CircB1 , CircC1 . The difference is that when set to SCB-10, we do not have control over the three-way valve built into the furnace, because then there is a separate output to control the external three-way valve on the SCB-10 board for each circuit. CircA1 , CircB1 , CircC1 . As for the freezing temperature, it seems to me that it only applies to the case when we do not have the heating on in winter. What is this temperature supposed to be? It depends on the insulation of the building. The question is at what outside temperature will the water in the house start to freeze. However, it seems to me that the furnace selects the circulation temperature according to the heating curve settings (with a weather (external) thermostat installed or according to the set constant supply temperature (with no external thermostat). Only in the anti-freeze protection mode, above this temperature limit, the furnace does not work at all he just watches.

Panderecki · Answer

Yes, there is such an option, I think I wrote about it. For example, we set it to 40C and the boiler heats at 40C all the time. It seems to me that this setting works well for small, warm houses. I had a problem with the settings on one hot water and central heating board. I hope that the boiler works as it should. yes, I had a problem with this parameter, because when the temperature dropped below the set top, the boiler heated the circulating water to over 60C, which was excessive. I learned from the installer that there is no way for the water to freeze in the circulation if I lower this range, because before the boiler draws in air from outside, it is mixed (I don`t remember exactly where now). In any case, you can set the temp.opz even to -15C to the boiler did not enter these settings. Added after 1 [minute]: Yes exactly

leszcz70 · Answer

Hello I have been using the DD AMC 15 boiler for several days - my installer died during startup Can someone advise me? There is a boiler with underfloor heating and radiators + hot water TC Smart controller and external temperature sensor Can I set a constant temperature for radiators and underfloor heating? The boiler has electronics - a board for connecting SCB-10 devices, it is possible to connect these devices there, but how to put it all together Added after 1 [minute]: Hello I have been using the DD AMC 15 boiler for several days - my installer died during startup Can someone advise me? There is a boiler with underfloor heating and radiators + hot water TC Smart controller and external temperature sensor Can I set a constant temperature for radiators and underfloor heating? The boiler has electronics - a board for connecting SCB-10 devices, it is possible to connect these devices there, but how to put it all together

wnowak · Answer

If you want to have a constant supply temperature, you do not need a weather sensor (external). But it will be useful as an information thermometer. Set the parameter AP002 (Manual heat demand) to value 1 (with set value), and set the circulation temperature with the parameter AP026 (Set supply temperature for manual heating demand).

leszcz70 · Answer

thank you, but I'm not from the industry, and I'm also an authorized seller, De Dietrich - I'll eat everything I can, I don't know if the hydraulic connection is OK. My hands are shaking, I don't know what to do with it

wnowak · Answer

I`m not in the industry either, but I built the stove myself. An industry professional never has time to play with your stove. View private message.

piotrkafka · Answer

I have an AMC25 furnace. Old building house... Typical cube, approx. 200 m2. External insulation: gray polystyrene 10, the roof is partly cotton wool 10, partly some old insulators used in the corners 60 during construction. I have an external sensor, and in the house there is a manual thermostat on each radiator. A 150L hot water tank is connected to the stove. Hot water is perfect, but when it comes to radiators, I`m at the testing stage, because I`ve only been baking kak since August 2021. I have 16 radiators, including 2 x 2 m, 2 ladders and the rest standard 80 cm. All aluminum new. My observations. Generally, I have the radiators set to 2, except for the bathrooms and 4 80cm radiators, where it is always set to 3. In the last 30 days, I have burned about 160 M3 of gas. Is that a lot or not... for such a house? My furnace is set up as follows. The curve is set to 1.5, the temperature is 70, and adjustable according to the program... Night 18 degrees, from 6 a.m. to 10 p.m. it`s 22 degrees. The temperature in the house is ok, the question is whether the consumption is adequate and whether it will be possible to lower it? The service technician who started the furnace said that when the days are cold, i.e. about 5 degrees outside, it is better to set it to e.g. 26-30 degrees during the day, then the furnace will consume less gas. Honestly, I trust this forum more than him, so I`m asking for any suggestions. At home I have one circuit hot water, of course . Previously, I had a coal-fired furnace and I burned about 750 kg of coal cubes per month.

wnowak · Answer

Gray 10 insulation is very minimal, and I would say that gray 15 cm is a sufficient level. I have 20 cm of white Styrofoam. In addition, windows and doors have a significant impact - their penetration coefficients. And ventilation, whether it is mechanical with heat recovery (recuperation) or gravity. I also have 200 m², but with underfloor heating. Over the last 30 days I have used 73 m³ or 825 kWh. Underfloor heating on 2 floors + hot water boiler. I have an AMC15 furnace. First of all, why do you have a 25kW furnace and not 15kW? In my opinion you should have 15kW. External issues: insulation, windows, ventilation are more important than manipulating furnace parameters. If the furnace runs relatively smoothly and modulates the burner (i.e. does not cycle on-off), then by manipulating the curve you will save a little (in relation to the building`s insulation).

piotrkafka · Answer

Ok, we’ve finished the lecture on windows, doors and insulation, and the question is about the furnace. As for Styrofoam, unfortunately it is not always possible to use something thicker... I was limited by the roof... And I did not intend to change the roof while insulating it. The windows and doors are new, but when it comes to heat transmittance, I don’t know what they are. Why do I have 25 kW and not 15 kW... I plan to connect the second part of the house to this furnace, i.e. another 150 m2. So, if manipulating the curve does not fully fulfill its purpose, it is better to set the furnace to a higher temperature to ensure continuous and not cyclical operation? Instead of, for example, 9 p.m. a day, should I set it to 30 a.m. and then have the furnace run continuously to reduce consumption? Do I understand correctly?

JurekJr · Answer

Hello, I am looking for an answer to the question of what the room sensor influence parameter means in the settings of the AMC25 DIEDRICH boiler in the CIRCA circuit, radiator circuit, temperature control according to Tzew and Tpok. I have it set to 5. What does this setting mean and how does it affect the operation of the boiler or the CIRCA circulation pump?

DJTrueBeliever · Answer

The weight of the room thermostat parameter in the control algorithm - exactly what the name suggests. Let`s assume that you have set the weight x, then the weather parameter has a weight of max(x)-x (the weights are complemented to the maximum adjustable value). The whole philosophy is that if the room signal gives the apartment is warm signal and the weather signal it`s frosty, the room signal will try to reduce the supply temperature, and this parameter determines how much it can do it. The value of 5 indicates that it is still the weather forecast that actually rules the control, and the weather forecaster can only reduce or increase the ox/max(x) parameter. Values above half of the maximum possible reverse the entire algorithm - then the indoor one begins to have a greater influence than the external one, but from a practical point of view it doesn`t make much sense - unless you have extremely tight thermal insulation of the building.

Setting the parameters of the Dietrich amc 25 condensing gas furnace

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