VW Bora 1.9 TDI 90km - Relay 53 Connection & Rear Fog Light Function: Fuses, Bulbs & Wiring

I have a question, whether the relay 53 in the relay box on the pedals, is connected only to the installation of front or rear fog lights. I have no light at the back, the fuse is OK, the bulb is OK, the switch after setting the fog position 12v output voltage on the gray wire, the indicator on the board is and there are no lights, probably only the relay remains.

In Bór, you probably have 1 low light, and in my opinion it will not be controlled by the "53" relay. This relay applies to me only front fog lamps, due to their significant load (2 bulbs H-3).

In the book VW Golf IV and Bora, in the section on "electrics" "Additional 13 relays board" pos. 1 cit. ... fog lamp relay (53). According to me, this is the front lamps (110 W) and not the rear lamps (21 W). These lamps, i.e. both the front and rear fog lamps are protected with fuse No. 36.

To be sure, check with a meter (tester) whether the bulb is receiving 12 V voltage and whether the lamp 'weight' is correct. Also examine this relay (or substitute) and check if it is receiving power.

You don't have a hook sometimes? I had a similar problem (in another car) and it turned out that in the socket to connect the trailer the rear fog lamp disconnecting switch damaged when the trailer was attached.

Thanks for the info, yes I have the diagram and now I also saw that from relay 53 (on the diagram J5) only 2 gray-yellow cables come out and as if they fed only the front lights. And as for the second post, I have a hook, this kind of switch is sitting in the socket of the trailer plug? So, I conclude that the voltage for the rear light goes first to the trailer socket and then to the plug socket of the bulbs.

ferguson6600 wrote:

so I conclude that the voltage on the rear light goes first to the trailer socket and then to the plug socket of the bulbs

Yes, but only in the 13-pin ones.

You got a hook, snap at its cables

Today I looked under the flip of the hook socket, there sits a 7-pin socket, I connected the meter quickly and on pin 2 there is voltage after setting the switch on the fog, there probably sits a blue cable from the fog lights. Only now the question arises whether the cable to the lamp passes through the trailer socket, or goes separately and independently to the lamp socket, you know how it is, because the diagram does not show it. In total, you can undo these plastics and walk on the bundle, but how the cable is flying through the trailer socket, this is where I would focus.

If the fogging is disconnected after inserting the plug into the socket it looks like this:

But this in 7-pin rarely seen.

And here there is probably a dog buried, if there was such a socket in my place, it probably wouldn't bother me if I made a jumper of the second pin with the cable going to the car lamp. What do you think a good idea?

If you do not go on a night tour with a trailer, it does not bother you that the car will shine.

I found the fault of the lack of light in the lamp, I dismantled the hook socket and there was a fault. The original 13 pin socket was probably installed, but some macher replaced it with 7 pin. But it was a pseudo specialist, admittedly he installed a second socket but changed the colors of the cables, and left some of them cut off and not even insulated. Where from 2 pin should be blue the cable is connected some gray, and blue was loosely cut without any voltages. It was also gray and yellow loose, and I thought it was fog, so I connected this cable to pin 2 through the bulb where there is voltage fog and immediately lighted up the bulb in the lamp. To sum up, I connected these 2 cables to pin 2 and the light works as it should be for now, and in the summer if it is warm I will buy a new socket because it is already miserable, and connect again with new cables as needed. Thank you all for the hints.