Renault Trafic 2.0dci '08 - I do not want to ignite after replacing the head

Hello.

I recently purchased a Renault Trafic 2.0dci 2008. The previous owner did not want to light it, and when he did it for a few seconds and then it went out. At the workshop, they replaced him with 2 injectors, but as far as I know, they could not adapt them because the car did not start. So the mechanics said the head gasket.

I bought it like this. To make sure it was a gasket, I unscrewed the injectors and gave compressed air to the holes. Already during the first injection, a fountain appeared in the coolant tank. So it was already known that there were blows on the gasket.

I took the heads off. I have all of them checked together with the rollers. There was a drama after checking out. The head is cracked. "Concave" rollers. As for me, the previous owner had to overheat it nicely.

I bought a new head after regeneration. The head is in its place (without radiator / water) so it's time to check if it fires. At the beginning there was a problem with firing, but it was probably air-blown after a dozen or so attempts, and finally it surprised and there was no problem, the car ran like a raspberry. He smoked to the touch. Satisfied, I finished work for that day.

The next day, when it was dawn, I started folding it to the end. I put on coolers, poured water. I want to smoke, so that the water spreads nicely and that's the problem. The car does not start, and when it catches it, it goes out for a moment. STOP and RED FLOW warning lights and occasional ABS and AIRBAG. I started looking for a fault. At the beginning, the fuel, and it turned out that I do not have the rail or the pump (before). However, after some time, the fuel appeared. However, nothing has changed it goes off and on. I disconnected the injectors one by one and it did nothing.

Is it possible that there is so much air in it? Maybe the injection pump is not working 100%?
Is there any sensor that cuts off the fuel supply? Somewhere I read that when the Pillow light appears, it automatically cuts off the fuel, or maybe there is an accident sensor?

Have you been pumping, is it getting hard? Fuel filter in what condition? Camshaft sensor OK? Connect to a computer, you can learn a lot.

I pumped the pear hard as a stone. I changed the fuel filter myself, the filter was ice. I did not replace the sensor with a new one, and I do not know if the one that works. To connect to a computer, I have to take it to the workshop, and for now I ask on the forum. Maybe someone had something similar.

Radzix15 wrote:

I read somewhere that when the Pillow light appears, it automatically cuts off the fuel,

Nonsense

Radzix15 wrote:

then I have to drag him to the workshop

let him come to you
One pumps the bulb, the other fires.

Radzix15 wrote:

I changed the fuel filter myself, the filter was there ice .

For peace of mind, replace all ON in the tank. Does he smoke from the cake? The computer would narrow down the search.

Added after 2 [minutes]:

Radzix15 wrote:

Maybe someone had something similar.

You bought a little pig in a poke - the car is out of order, so it's a bit hard to guess.

vemo wrote:

One pumps the bulb, the other fires

This was also done. The pear turned softer when it started up, but was constantly pumped.

Hardly anyone who sees the mechanic arrive after 6pm (only then I am "free").

pp_pablo wrote:

For peace of mind, replace all ON in the tank. Does he smoke from the cake? The computer would narrow down the search.

It burns from the cake, but only until you stop spraying it.

pp_pablo wrote:

You bought a little pig in a poke - the car is out of order, so it's a bit hard to guess.

As they say. Price works wonders

And what about the air intake system - a flow meter Why did the car burn before "shot". After he put it together, it stopped lighting.
The head from Trafic or from another 2.0 dci donor :?:

Radzix15 wrote:

ABS and AIRBAG now and then.

Battery voltage drop.

genek1000 wrote:

And what about the air intake system - a flow meter

The flow meter was not connected.

Today I checked cables, plugs, etc. It turned out that the voltage regulator was to be replaced. Could it be the reason why I couldn't smoke? As I wrote in the 1st post, without full armament, he smoked a shot, and when, among other things, a PK belt was installed on the alternator, the car did not start. If the regulator did not give the right current to the circuit, the injectors could not open or the injection pump could not deliver fuel to the rail?

Unfortunately, I can not check if it starts after disconnecting the alternator, because the starter refused to obey. Now I am waiting for a new starter and a new voltage regulator

How do you know that the regulator is damaged if you can not fire? Did you check on the "table"? The voltage regulator has nothing to do with ignition. I asked about the flow meter in the sense that the air intake system was assembled (tight) and was the flow meter electrically connected?

It will also fire without the flow meter, but it will "limp"

pp_pablo wrote:

will "limp"

And why should you ????

There was no need to check the voltage regulator as it fell apart :)

The car still does not start. New injection pump, shaft position sensor also new. I vented it for 3 hours and nothing. Today I unscrewed the cover with rollers and checked if I set everything up correctly and everything is "book-like". What makes me wonder. The fuel from the pump goes, but there's no super pressure there. When I unscrew the cable, there is no oil fountain, only low pressure. However, it does not always leave the rail for injectors. Interestingly, after so many attempts to light the candles, the candles are dry as pepper, and in my opinion they should be flooded.

I disconnected the safety valve, but it had no effect. He burns the cake, the poster will end and go out. I also noticed that the accelerator pedal does not respond to the flame. It should be?

Anyone have any ideas what could be wrong? A slatted strip? Pressure sensor on the strip? Because there's obviously a problem with the fuel.

Radzix15 wrote:

New injection pump, shaft position sensor also new

You should already come to the conclusion that this car needs to be connected to the computer. Read errors and view a few parameters. You will then see, among other things, what the actual fuel pressure is while shooting. It will definitely be a faster and cheaper repair option. Well, unless you insist and have access to free spare parts, you can change them one by one until you finally hit.

Radzix15 wrote:

I also noticed that the accelerator pedal does not respond to the flame. It should be?

Because you are holding the "gas pedal" in your hand.

I connected to the computer and the mechanic said that according to him, the fuel system is heavily air-permeable. According to the computer, everything is fine except the fuel pressure, but this is the fault of the air in the system and the pump.

Maybe you know any good way to vent? Because what I tried did not work.
PS. One of the best mechanics I know.

Radzix15 wrote:

The car does not start, and when it catches it, it goes out for a moment. STOP indicator lights and RED MILK

In this case, the error in the controller should be 100% saved.

Radzix15 wrote:

I connected to the computer and the mechanic said that according to him, the fuel system is heavily air-permeable. According to the computer, everything is fine except the fuel pressure, but this is the fault of the air in the system and the pump

What were the mistakes? What is the fuel pressure while cranking the starter?

Radzix15 wrote:

Maybe you know any good way to vent?

Disconnect the plugs from the injectors, run the supply lines and turn the starter
you can give a little cake until the fuel appears on the injectors.
Tighten the tubes, connect the injectors and fire.