Matiz - Connecting the remote control central locking to the old switchboard

Hello, I have a little problem. Some time ago I installed 4 actuators and a control unit to the matiza, but not on the remote control, master actuators sit in 2 front doors, slave on the back. After connecting the control panel without a remote control, everything works as it should, control is (ground). There are 2 pins left from the control unit, white and brown to connect the remote control. Here is the diagram


I bought a controller with a remote control and wanted to connect it to the old switchboard, but somehow it does not work. I found 2 white cables in the new switchboard that have minus control of the old switchboard, and connected them to this switchboard to 2 wires, i.e. brown and white, while the 2 yellow wires in the new switchboard were bridged and connected to 12v, and the orange ones were bridged and connected to ground. When you try to close with the remote control, the fuse in the car from the radio blows. The cube of the new switchboard is lower
The directions are well connected to the brown cables and they flash when you try to close and open, where did I make a mistake maybe on this bridging? Shouldn't I connect the bridged yellow cables to the ground and leave the orange cables alone without any connection?

Everything is nice and beautiful, but it would be nice to be proud of what "CZ" control system is added, because the photo of a bunch of colored wires alone does not give a lot of reference.

This is Chinese without brand as in the photo
Now I have it connected directly to the actuators and it works together with the directions, but there is no closing and opening from the key. But reading the posts on the forums, I came to the conclusion that 2 switchboards should work, including one with a remote control, then I have to dismantle the orange cables from the ground, and disconnect the bridged yellow cables from the power supply and connect to ground (because the control goes to ground), while the white cable from the switchboard with the remote control, where the closing signal is, connect the white cable of the old switchboard, and the white / black cable with the open signal must be connected to the brown cable on the old switchboard. DOES he reason well?

ferguson6600 wrote:

I bridged the 2 yellow wires in the new switchboard and connected it to 12v

Disconnect it - no plus.
You have the old control unit with mass, and you have to make the new one to control the mass.
As you received the connection diagram for the new central unit, you make a connection to "negative / ground control". You connect this connection with the "middle wires" to the inputs of the old switchboard.

This is my schematic, compare with your wire colors.

ferguson6600 wrote:

while the white cable from the switchboard with the remote control where the closing signal is, connect the white cable of the old switchboard, and the white / black cable with the opening signal must be connected to the brown cable on the old one

Or vice versa.
I think you're up to it right now.
Matiz has 10A on the radio, when the switchboard pulls to 15A - this is the fuse - the radio fuse will blow again.

I just have to disconnect it if I connect to the old switchboard, now I have it connected because I have a direct connection to the master motors for the green and blue cables from them, and with such a connection it works for me without any problems. But the bridged yellow wires from the new switchboard must be connected to ground? to control the mass of the white wires? I lost the scheme somewhere and so now I have a little problem.

According to my yellow to ground, starting the central lock causes them to connect with relays inside with white outputs, and thus the old switchboard will get a ground signal to work.
The connected plus made a short circuit because, as you can see, the orange ones are connected with the contact of non-activated relays. An activated relay switches the white wire to the yellow wire, previously it contacts the orange wire. Where was the plus?

ferguson6600 wrote:

if I connect to the old switchboard

If? If you do not care about the "key", you probably have almost everything connected? If it depends, the new control unit probably doesn't have any control inputs and it has to be old.

Didn't you have the original central in the driver's door "actuator" that was not an actuator?

Mietek was without a central unit and I made some additional actuators in the door, but I wanted a remote control, so I connected the control unit to the remote control and everything was fine. But now I thought again why not lock the remote control and the key, but tomorrow I will get it somehow After unsuccessful attempts yesterday I connected it as it was so far, i.e. on the remote control, there is a 10A fuse in the box and 15A in the switchboard, and surprisingly today again this 10A crashed when closing, there is no short circuit on the bank, and so far it has never blew it up with this connection. How do you think to do a fuse swap? i.e. to the 15A box and to the 10A control panel, or leave 15A next to the control unit and 20A

Connect directly to the battery, in front of the ignition box, or to the power line with a "keyless" fuse greater than 15A.
Increasing the fuse value may result in damage to the wires, connectors or the ignition block.
Got an F12 in the cabin from the ori locks? There would be 20A. The lighter works without a key - they write differently with it, but it should be on the key ...

Rather, such mycgaverowanie with fuses from the factory installation of the car may end in fire, do you have two switchboards connected to one 10A fuse?

I reviewed the installation today and, as I remember, the radio was plugged into constant voltage, not through the ignition switch, it writes about the power supply here, and I did the same with the cigarette lighter socket, that I connected it to the same cable as the radio, because the lighter also went through the ignition switch. When I connected the switchboard, the first one without a remote control, I forgot and also plugged in the same cable, the fact was without any problem. But when I connected the second control unit with the plus cable of the first control unit, NO TO KNOW, current consumption to the maximum, and then start the radio and press the remote at the same time, it shoots the smallest fuse. As for the F12 fuse, I do not remember, but tomorrow I will pay attention and I will also pay attention to whether there is a spare fuse No. Ef21 30A in the engine compartment, or at least if there is a cable connected to its socket, I would connect with a wire there and bring it under the board and hook it under it these 2 control units.
EDIT. In the fuse box there is a 20A fuse from the lock center, and in the engine compartment there is a cable for the 30A fuse from the Ef 21 position, but there is no full 2-pin socket for the fuse, only one pin and the other one needs to be connected and installed. And so I thought that I would probably stick with these central units there.