Installing Universal Central Locking in Skoda Fabia I Hatchback 1.2 54HP: Actuators & Switchboards

Hello everyone, my name is Mateusz, this is my first post written thanks to the CameR user who gave me points (thanks . I have been registered on Elektroda for a long time but I used only as a reader.

I wanted to install the central lock in the Skoda Fabia I Hatchback 1.2 54HP, this is a poor version without any amenities, hence the easiest way to buy a set of universal cylinders and a switchboard.

On Allegro, I found a set of actuators dedicated to Fabia for about 125 PLN, which seems quite interesting due to the appropriate plates, cylinders like in any other set.

First case - which switchboard to choose which will allow me to:
- opening / closing the door
- opening the damper with a dedicated remote control button
-waking up the horn with a dedicated button or by pressing the closing button on the remote control twice quickly (searching for a car in the parking lot)

Second case - does any central control support the microst contact in the damper handle? In addition to the remote control, I would like to be able to open the hatch manually with the handle when the lock is disarmed. At the moment I have a "bare handle", I plan to buy a version with a contact.

Third case - is there an option to add buttons on the dashboard that I can close to open the central locking?

It seems to me that it would be possible to use the alarm control panel and use the relay opening the starter cord, give a time trial and set on it that after 0.5s of holding the handle microstock, it will give voltage to the damper lock cylinder 0.9s (I think it should be?). When the alarm was armed, the starter relay would be open and no current would flow to the actuator. What do you think about this? maybe there are simpler ways. Alternatively, a PLC powered by 12V could perform all functions but it is probably too power-consuming for the car, especially if it would stay longer.

Opening the flap from the remote control could be omitted altogether if it could be controlled by the microswitch in the handle?
In general, it would be a great solution to confirm by means of an LED diode physical closure of all locks (maybe it can be done on factory locks?) - is this practically used?

Thank you for all suggestions and answers, I have already bought some things besides servomotors and central unit. Below are photos of optimal pilots



I saw the following one with the fourth red button from below:



I will be grateful for any suggestions and advice on practical aspects of using universal central locks.

mateon969 wrote:

Case one - (...) opening / closing the door

Every switchboard can do it.

mateon969 wrote:

Case one - (...) flap opening from the remote control / horn activation

These two options are usually programmed interchangeably, i.e. the control panels do not perform both functions at the same time.

mateon969 wrote:

Case two - does any control unit support the microst contact in the damper handle?

I do not know this exact central control unit

mateon969 wrote:

Case three - is there an option to add buttons on the dashboard that I can close to open the central locking?

You need a central locking controller that supports the "master" actuator in the driver's door.
In parallel with the working contacts of the "master", you connect additional buttons on the console.

With this master actuator, I didn't think so

There are such remote controls with four buttons, e.g. the one from auction allegro nr: 6572397357 anyway there are a lot of them - none of them will handle horns and flaps?

I understand that the control of the micro-contact in the flap is also impossible in these units ?

I would like to ask you for advice on how to remove the sides in the fabia, maybe someone knows from which side to start, to break as little as possible - I took off the cover of the flap nicely but in the covers of the trunk pillars I broke the sockets of the clips (I am dismantling the flap, because the trunk lighting is installed and I bought a lock with a limit switch).

mateon969 wrote:

how to remove the sides in the factory

It doesn't matter the direction, it's important to do it in a warm room.

I came up with this solution because I was guided by Camer on the signals controlling the master servomotor, I will use a bistable relay switched by the signals controlling the servomotors.
When the central locking releases, the NO contact of the relay "gives" a positive or ground transition. This signal will power up the time switch controlled by the microstock in the flap. If the central one locks, the time will not be charged.
The time is to be that when I push the microstock in the flap (rising slope - impulse), it will set the voltage on the flap bolt and the flap will open for 1s (around). I found the ASE 4RSM bistable relay, which should fulfill this task, but in the conduction state (open switchboard) it consumes 40mA and I do not know if it would be better to use a typical electromechanical one or two coil, I'm afraid that it will switch on potholes.

Alternatively, instead of a bistable relay, I can use an end switch which will be switched by a rod moved by an actuator, e.g. in the driver's door.

I will then use the additional channel on the remote control to connect the horn to search in the parking lot.

I'm still lighting the trunk and I'm wondering whether to connect the shortening relay to directly turn on the light. Apparently only 10 Watt, but in the event of a breakdown of the limit switch it would turn off the light e.g. after 3 minutes.

What do you think about these solutions?

I think that with a clear conscience you can skip the time system in the control of the damper actuator - let it "pull" the pull rod as long as the button on the remote control / handle is pressed. You only need to power the button so that it does not work when the central lock is closed. On the relays you can perform any logical functions, you just have to remember that in the "idle" all relays have turned off the power of the coils, because they consume a lot of current. In the case of "automotive" relays, you do not have to worry about accidental activation / disconnection due to vibration.

mateon969 wrote:

I'm still lighting the trunk and I'm wondering whether to connect the shortening relay to directly turn on the light.

This is how it works at the factory. The shortening relay is connected "in series" with the bulb.

mateon969 wrote:

What do you think about these solutions?

They are highly recombined.

mateon969 wrote:

I would like to ask for advice on how to remove the bellies in the factory

Look for some Skoda forum with photos. First unscrew all the screws hidden under the caps in the door handles, do not forget about when adjusting the mirrors / door handle (underneath). First "tear" the latches at the bottom, then go up. You can remove the strip near the glass. Due to the "triangles" on the mirrors, you remove the bacon upwards from the side of the door.

Thanks for the answer, I will give the lights to the shortening, to the microstatic of the flap I will not give anything, if it will not do it, I will add something, but ...

Still the issue of locking the flap as the central unit is blocked. I have short pulses - 0.9s switching actuators, polarization changes at close / open. I could give a bistable one coil or limit switch.
I am now leaning for a bistable car - it still consumes 1mA, and when the control unit is unlocked - 40mA.

... can't you just use the signal from the master cartridge? It may not be such an elegant solution as a bistable relay, but much simpler and cheaper. The fact that it will then only react to the driver's door, but it's probably not a big problem.

I have not yet reached the set of servomotors and the control unit. I don't know what signals are available in the master actuator whereas how they were controlled I knew All in all, if something could be used, it would be the most

In the master actuator you have an additional limit switch - 3 wires: one common is shorted with one of the others depending on the position of the actuator (open / closed).

So the master on three signal wires switches from COM plus or ground between the other wires (there is probably NO and NC contact). Maybe I will buy another master servomotor, mount it in the door, e.g. left rear, connect only the engine power supply to the control panel and use two signals to give the signal to the trunk? Alternatively, an industrial switch connected to the cable in one of the doors - zero power consumption - as in both solutions.

I don't know exactly how the master actuator works. I read that when I turn the key, the actuator will pull the key all the way and that it needs to be adjusted properly. And these control contacts are surely used for this. I would like to ask for an explanation

The master actuator has a switchable contact informing the central lock controller about its position, so that if the door lock is opened / closed with a key or a mechanical bolt inside, it can inform the controller about it and this will open / close the locks on the other doors. The operation of the master servo itself is no different from the slave servomotor - apart from this switched contact, there is no additional electronics and does nothing by itself.