Matiz Ignition Switch Replacement: Immobilizer Version, Translating Pads & Key Positions

When replacing the ignition switch, I cut off the locking tongue, which caused the need to buy a new one. I have a version with an immobilizer.
QUESTION: I have to buy a new one and absolutely original one intended for the version with immo so that you can translate the pads of the insert or YES ???

Is it enough that I remove the insert from the old one and from this old plate I will translate it in the same order to the new one and the new one should roll on the old key without setting the immobilizer? ????
Do I have to translate this black plastic cover of the ignition with the bone in which the cable is plugged in, the one from the side of inserting the key and on which the key positions I II II are marked ???

The insert fits from Corsa B.
You translate the latches in the middle and fit the old key.
The immo loop is to be translated.
If you have loops in a new one, you do not have to translate it.
The loop between Daewoo and Opel is not interchangeable.

I bought the entire ignition switch. I did not translate the loop because it was, and you wrote that I do not have to translate.
I just moved the entire insert to the new ignition but ...
I drank on pressing it into the ignition housing.
I started with the old original, which I dismantled. I tried to push her in all ways without a result.
I made a hook from the wire, which I put on the left side, that is from the side of the coil.
I pressed the lever max. to the bottom and then on the right side I pressed the ignition switch. Failed to. Any tips?
Maybe there is a way to dismantle this case and entrust someone who knows the way !!!

The inserts are identical?
As they are, it forces and violence her
Is it easy to leave? What you broke off, you took out?
https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic337950.html
http://daewooforum.pl/temat3943.html read and do the opposite.
Somehow I did not see signaled problems with inserting the inserts, with removal and yes.
The pin from the insert is straight and goes well into what is going to get in there?
Put aside, and look at it calmly, think about what you are doing wrong.

iorum wrote:

Maybe there is a way to dismantle this case and entrust someone who knows the way !!!

There are no screws? The heads are ruptured, they are cut off to a flat screwdriver, or a punch, a chisel and a hammer.

I have a car from new products. I took the starter very hard, for strength. Did I do it correctly, I do not know. I know that I unnecessarily took it out, but it has already been cleaned up.
Everything indicates that I took everything I broke.
Now I try in different ways I put in and an old and new starter with and without inserts. Generally, it comes in the beginning ok, nothing is tough, I manage to put on about 1cm before the end and here it clearly collapses in something and completely deny.
If I only put in a new one, I would have doubts about it, but neither new nor old?
I have already read everything that was written about it on the web, including the instruction, when there is a problem with inserting. There, apparently, you have to join in two places, I have no way out I will try ...

In fact, there are 4 screws with heads, this is the final version.
If anybody had any idea, please.
If not, I go all the way.

Use a screwdriver to insert the pawl from the lock, move it inside the ignition tube before inserting the insert.

And the key in the insert and twisted properly?
I do not know what you create, as I read from the beginning, these inserts come in and out without any problems.

Centimeter say? I do not know if the insert, its pin, does not sometimes enter directly into the electric connector of the ignition, whether the housing is suitable for prolonging the pin moving the ankle. Tune the casing insert to the length and align. If so, unscrew the black cube on the other side, and unscrew it, maybe by moving the protruding pin, push the insert to the end.
The pin is "filed, crumpled", contoured, has a shape so that in one position only he entered what goes in, into his nest.
https://c.allegroimg.com/original/01b200/594d3e0c41caa5e2dfcc165a6d4c
Do you see the hole?
Do you catch what I mean? Look at the pin and its hole where it is to enter the casing or ankle of the ignition. Otherwise it's probably something with a blockade, maybe it does not hide completely, you have to move the steering wheel, adequately as when inserting and moving the key before firing to unlock the steering wheel.
One and the other "dynks" could turn slightly while removing the insert and now block.

Gentlemen, I have a lot of manual skills that's why I took it for myself.
Unfortunately, from the beginning, despite what some people write here, the whole ignition did not want to leave, but I struggled out by bit and forcefully. Whether by the way of something I have crashed a pawl inside the pipe can not be said.
Now I have taken several dozen attempts and I managed to insert and remove the old ignition switch without insert, but each time I had to press the latch / lever on the left side of the hole and then the ignition switch laboriously but jumps into place.
Unfortunately, the new (not original) does not enter. If I tried to kill it, it could come in but I would have to take it out unless I took it out.
I've moved the forum and found a professional guide in which it is written that sometimes the cast is so sloppy that insertion is more of a problem than pulling out.
Due to the fact that the old one will rather mount in the set, I will try on Saturday try to drill the pipe and the ignition and plug it in to make it immobile. I found this way of saving the old ignition switch in order to not replace the key in this guide.
Of course, I set the key in the right position, and rather everything was done correctly, it just went reluctantly from the beginning, maybe tearing something at the beginning, and now there are consequences.
If I manage to get out, I will write for those interested.
If you do not unscrew the entire housing in which the ignition is mounted but here again the problem because the obnoxious screwed it with two captive screws.

Do you have a calliper? Maybe it's enough to nail a new insert in some place? Option with a replacement, it's a different tube, + another cube - as it happened to me, when they bought a replacement not from this Mercedes or man, and the key too little twisted, so it did not reach the position of the starter ... Only a dozen or so fewer in the turn of the key, or quite another whole ignition switch to the ignition switch ...

iorum wrote:

If you do not unscrew the whole housing in which the ignition is mounted but here again the problem because the obnoxious one screwed it with two captive screws

Screws often enough to break, loosen, the rest of the thread will unscrew even lightly with fingers, though once I fought until the very end.
Another option is to remove the entire column.
Next, start the ignition with the screwdriver, the key is fixed to the immo loop, and drive where you need to.

After repeated attempts, it turned out that in the new insert of the ignition switch tongue, which should facilitate the insertion of the insert is badly cast, too long and badly sharpened. I polished it a bit here and there and now it goes into the casing, but without pressing the latch wire through the hole on the left side, neither new nor old, I could not put on.
Anyway, it was possible without dismantling the casing, because picking up screws due to poor access would also be easy.
Eventually, the hula ignition switch (old cylinder in the new housing), until next time.
Someone advised me badly, because the fault was the ankle, and the station itself looks like I should not move at all.
I replaced the ankle, and she was the cause of the ignition of the ignition switch.
Thank you all for your interest in the subject, I have read every note and thank you for every clue.
Subject to be closed.

And else ...
For all who have broken the locking latch in the ignition.
To make the old ignition switch with a detached latch that stabilizes the ignition switch in the housing again, restore it to the state of use I did so ...
I drilled the battery with a 2mm drill at a distance of about 2-3 mm from the right edge of the housing, through the housing at the steering wheel and through the ignition housing. It is important to drill through both housings at the same time, so that the holes overlap each other and with the ignition insert removed so that you do not swallow it with filings. It is important to drill as close as possible to the right edge of the housing near the steering wheel where the cast is as thick and as important as possible to drill from the top of the casing, not from below so that the stabilizing screw does not fall out.
Then, having no reamer so thin, I slightly enlarged the hole to about 2.5 mm and with a simple 3mm screw I tapped the hole. It is important to do it patiently after half the hole so that the screw does not break.
After threading the hole, I have chosen a new screw and it is important to cut it so that it only covers the width of the two housings and does not protrude inside the ignition housing, because the rotating ignition insert can engage the screw and malfunction.
For me, I achieved the perfect stability of the ignition switch. It is important that after drilling and threading thoroughly clean both housings from filings.
If someone needs directions, I invite you to contact me by phone. I will share my experience with you 602 755 817 Zbyszek.

I will add some photos for others can help
I have an ignition switch with imob and broke the spigot and bought the ignition without imob
I wanted to replace the plates with the new one and remove the old one but it turned out that in the old plate they are thicker than in the new one and do not fall resistance and I stayed with the new ignition switch
As I put the old housing with the new insert in the tube, it blocked in the place where there is a latch from the steering lock, so I ground it from the inside of the wall and it was ok I was able to insert earlier I was blocking the removal of the insert but that's what I put in and it was cut out old sensor keys from imob and paste in a new key such a mention

ALe what a car because after the board it does not look like matiz.

After the number is opel astra https://www.google.com/search?q=90221874&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b
Next comes that also Daewoo / Chevrolet Matiz / Spark.

Matiza Life is an insert and I took photos in another car in the Citroen ZX

@ figo76 How did you open the insert to get into the buckles? I try to do it, but I have the feeling that something has broken and I can not do anything about it.

How do I buy a new insert, how long will the immobilizer load the old key on me?