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Chainsaw Chain Poor Performance and Overheating: Sharpening and Lubrication Factors

ziomekk19 87903 32
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Why does my chainsaw chain cut poorly, smoke, and overheat after a short time, even though lubrication seems fine?

Check the chain sharpening, depth gauges, chain tension, and the guide bar groove: a worn groove can make the chain tilt sideways, bind in the cut, and overheat even when oiling is OK [#8105855][#8106666] If the saw cuts well right after sharpening but quickly becomes weak again, the chain is likely sharpened incorrectly or the limiters are not set right; an RS chain in particular needs very accurate angles, and the limiter/bar edge burr should be filed properly [#8105855][#8108047] Rotate the guide bar 180 degrees as a test; if there is no improvement, the bar likely needs replacement because the groove is already worn out [#8106666] Also check the drive sprocket at the bar tip for damage or splitting, since that can also cause overheating and require a new bar and chain [#8106949] Overheating itself can reduce wear resistance, so cutting sand-contaminated wood or using unsuitable/insufficient oil can worsen the problem [#8109099]
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  • #1 8105706
    ziomekk19
    Level 10  
    Posts: 14
    Rate: 32
    Hello

    I have a problem with the chainsaw, and more precisely with the chain and the guide bar, so when I cut into the wood, the chain cuts into it poorly, it starts to smoke a little and the engine weakens. I would like to add that they sharpened the saws on the site, everything was ok to the momet, so after chewing about 1 meter of wood, the saw started not to cut into the wood at all, I sharpened it myself and as if a little better, but when I want to cut thicker wood about 20 cm in circumference, the saw does not cope. Chain hot as hell and so is the bar, lubrication is ok, what do you think?
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  • #2 8105736
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #3 8105751
    ziomekk19
    Level 10  
    Posts: 14
    Rate: 32
    what about the depth gauge? sawing can give something? what should be the height between the stop and the cutter tooth?
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  • #4 8105783
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #5 8105806
    ziomekk19
    Level 10  
    Posts: 14
    Rate: 32
    Stihl ms 171 how bad I have been cutting on it for 2 months and everything was ok.
  • #6 8105855
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #7 8106415
    MoniTOX
    Level 27  
    Posts: 1208
    Help: 80
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    Check the oil supply and make sure the oil is not too thin.
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  • #8 8106420
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #9 8106519
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
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  • #10 8106549
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #11 8106573
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #12 8106627
    ziomekk19
    Level 10  
    Posts: 14
    Rate: 32
    Gentlemen, the chain was sharpened twice. Today I sawed some wood, especially thin wood. I will tell you how it looks exactly, with the cut of the chain itself, it is ok, it cuts quickly, it means that there is a sharp saw, but after cutting it, as if the teeth do not take the wood at all, the saw gets weaker. I noticed a lot of wear of the guide, i.e. the paint is peeling off, and at the bottom it is a bit yellowed, it is probably from smoking, because when it does not go into the wood, the balloon flies a little. The hot guide that can not be touched as well as the chain. Oil bought in sthil, I think that's not the problem, I don't know what's going on anymore.
  • #13 8106666
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #14 8106718
    ziomekk19
    Level 10  
    Posts: 14
    Rate: 32
    I will check tomorrow and let you know, but what could be the reason that the guide has worn out so quickly? I moved the guides after each sharpening by 180 degrees. What will they say on the site? is subject to warranty?
  • #15 8106747
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #16 8106752
    ziomekk19
    Level 10  
    Posts: 14
    Rate: 32
    all original sthila.
  • #17 8106949
    sigwa18
    Level 43  
    Posts: 11675
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    Check that the star leading the chain has not split at the end of the bar. If so, the chain overheated and you can buy a new strip and chain.
  • #18 8108008
    DiZMar
    Level 43  
    Posts: 32219
    Help: 2869
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    If it is ok immediately after sharpening, and after cutting a small amount of wood, the problem arises again, the chain to be replaced, it is clear. It dulls too quickly (inadequate steel composition or badly hardened), i.e. for scrap. The fact that only after 2 sharpening is an argument for my diagnosis. Using it forcibly may cause further damage to e.g. the guide bar.
  • #19 8108047
    Grzegorz_madera
    Level 38  
    Posts: 4363
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    Rate: 1730
    elektrocentrum wrote:
    From experience. Chain plus bar and lubrication are the basis, especially the chain. The services are different, but the chain after a few sharpening sucks from my practice.

    This is a poor practice you have. The chain is sharpened until the teeth start breaking out during operation. If the author uses an RS (Stihl) chain, the reason is bad sharpening. It is a professional chain and requires perfect sharpening angles. If you don't have experience, it is better to use RM or PM. The second cause of magic is the limiters (which has already been written about), and the so-called. hair on the guide. It should be ground with a file at an angle of 45 °. Otherwise the saw will not cut into the wood.
  • #20 8109065
    ziomekk19
    Level 10  
    Posts: 14
    Rate: 32
    only today I saw after yesterday's cut that the saw was crooked, but it wants to go so many to the left or maybe a chain to be replaced? or a groove in the guide? How is it possible for him to get in shape as quickly?
  • #21 8109099
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #22 8109129
    ziomekk19
    Level 10  
    Posts: 14
    Rate: 32
    the chain at the bottom of the bar swings a little to the left and therefore cuts crooked to the left. Is it really the fault of the guide bar, I think the chain is well sharpened. There is no need to talk about oil because it lubricates well. I will add that it cuts crookedly if you press your strength a little because this is how the saw stands still and does not want to cut any further.
  • #23 8109139
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #24 17880739
    111111
    Level 12  
    Posts: 109
    Help: 1
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    the so-called hair on the guide. It should be ground with a file at an angle of 45 °. Otherwise the saw will not cut into the wood. - What is this weirdness of the so-called hair on the guide?
  • #25 17880842
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #26 17880853
    SKM 1964
    Level 34  
    Posts: 2191
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    So far, the author of the topic came up with it and polished it. ?? :D
  • #27 17880869
    wojtek1234321
    Level 36  
    Posts: 3553
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    111111 wrote:
    What is this weirdness of the so-called hair on the guide?

    There is "something", such a phenomenon, but it is commonly called "wire", not a hair.
  • #28 17880946
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #29 17881389
    SKM 1964
    Level 34  
    Posts: 2191
    Help: 150
    Rate: 660
    New bar, new chain and good lubrication with recommended oil
    by the manufacturer and you'll be fine. :|
    Then sharpening, preferably by machine, and measuring the stops.
    There used to be such starters. :|

    Added after 1 [minutes]:

    Correct chain tension is also important. :|
  • #30 17881405
    wojtek1234321
    Level 36  
    Posts: 3553
    Help: 306
    Rate: 1118
    Rycho T wrote:
    Yes, but this wire-hair does not heat the chain, it only makes it difficult for the guide bar to penetrate the wood.

    Yes, you are right, but plunging is not that difficult either, as long as the chain is properly sharpened and cuts the wood straight, not "like a sausage". Chain teeth, kerf, are much wider than the bar thickness. Blocking the guide bar in the kerf most often causes a bad sharpening of the chain and the saw "wants to cut diagonally" and then blocks the guide bar. :D
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around issues with a Stihl MS 171 chainsaw, specifically regarding poor cutting performance, overheating of the chain and guide bar, and the effectiveness of sharpening and lubrication. Users suggest that the chain may be the wrong type or worn out, and emphasize the importance of proper sharpening techniques and chain tension. The guide bar's condition is also highlighted, with recommendations to check for wear and to rotate it to assess performance. Concerns about the chain's rapid dulling and the potential need for replacement are discussed, alongside the significance of using appropriate oil and maintaining correct lubrication. The conversation concludes with a consensus that if the chain and lubrication are adequate, the guide bar likely needs replacement due to wear.
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FAQ

TL;DR: A chain that overheats past 250 °F can lose 30 % hardness [Oregon TechNote]. “Sharpen badly and you’ll burn the bar” [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #8109099] Most ‘won’t-cut’ problems trace to three things: dull cutters, wrong depth-gauge, or a worn bar. Why it matters: Fixing these fast keeps your saw productive, safe, and under warranty.

Quick Facts

• Correct depth-gauge gap: 0.63 mm (0.025 in) for 3⁄8 in pitch chains [Stihl Manual]. • Guide-bar groove wear limit: 20 % of original width; replace when exceeded [Oregon Guidebook]. • Typical chain life: 8–12 machine sharpenings before tooth length < 4 mm [Stihl Service Data]. • Bar and chain oil flow: 8–10 ml/min at full throttle on MS 171 [Stihl Spec Sheet]. • Sand-contaminated wood dulls cutters up to 4× faster than clean timber [Forest Prod. Lab, 2018].

Why does my Stihl MS 171 chain cut well for one meter and then stall?

The cutters dull quickly; steel loses hardness after overheating or hitting sand. Two sharpenings plus rapid dulling signal soft or overheated steel [Elektroda, ziomekk19, #8106627; #8108008]. Replace the chain and inspect depth-gauges.

How can I tell if the guide bar groove is worn out?

Lift the chain at mid-bar; if drivers rock sideways or touch the groove bottom, the bar is worn [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #8106666] Bar width more than 20 % over nominal also means replacement [Oregon Guidebook].

What is the correct depth-gauge height for a 3⁄8 in, 1.1 mm Stihl chain?

Maintain a 0.63 mm (0.025 in) gap between gauge and cutter top using a filing guide [Stihl Manual]. Incorrect height reduces bite and overheats the chain.

Can a worn sprocket at the bar tip cause overheating?

Yes. A split or seized nose sprocket increases friction, heats chain, and ruins bar [Elektroda, sigwa18, post #8106949] Replace bar if sprocket fails.

How do I remove the ‘wire’ or ‘hair’ edge on a guide bar?

  1. Clamp bar, chain removed.
  2. File bar rails at 45° to remove the wire edge.
  3. Deburr both sides, then flip bar when reinstalling [Elektroda, wojtek1234321, post #17882566]

What oil should I use, and how much?

Use ISO VG 150–220 tackified bar oil; the MS 171 needs 8–10 ml per minute at full revs [Stihl Spec Sheet]. Too-thin oil raises temps and wear [Elektroda, MoniTOX, post #8106415]

Does chain tension affect cutting speed?

Yes. A slack chain slaps the rails, widens the groove, and robs power; overtightening overheats it. Adjust until the drivers just touch the bar underside with no sag [Stihl Manual].

How many times can I sharpen before replacing the chain?

Typical life is 8–12 machine sharpenings; retire when tooth length drops below 4 mm or cutters crack [Stihl Service Data]. Edge-case: hitting a nail can scrap a chain instantly.

Why does the saw pull to the left when I push harder?

Unequal cutter angles or a tapered bar make the chain steer left. File cutters to identical angle and length, or replace a flared bar [Elektroda, ziomekk19, post #8109065]

Could bad sharpening alone cause smoke and power loss?

Yes. Over-heated cutters glaze, require more force, and stall the engine [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #8109139] Precise 30° top-plate and 60° side-plate angles restore bite [Stihl Sharpening Chart].

What’s an easy field test for bar oil flow?

Aim the tip at light ground, run half-throttle 10 s; a clear oil line should appear. No line means clogged oil port or empty tank [Stihl Service Tip].

Will warranty cover a prematurely worn bar?

Warranty excludes wear parts. Rapid wear from poor lubrication or dull chains isn’t covered [Stihl Warranty Policy; Elektroda, Anonymous, #8106747].
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