Chainsaw Chain Poor Performance and Overheating: Sharpening and Lubrication Factors

Question

Hello I have a problem with the chainsaw, and more precisely with the chain and the guide bar, so when I cut into the wood, the chain cuts into it poorly, it starts to smoke a little and the engine weakens. I would like to add that they sharpened the saws on the site, everything was ok to the...

Anonymous · Answer

If the saw is in working order, then the wrong chain. It's best to buy a new chain. Check the lubrication carefully before installing a new chain.

ziomekk19 · Answer

what about the depth gauge? sawing can give something? what should be the height between the stop and the cutter tooth?

Anonymous · Answer

Let's start with the fact that write what kind of saw it is. These tips I gave you from my experience with the saw. I replaced it with a new chain and I'm ok. You just have the wrong chain.

ziomekk19 · Answer

Stihl ms 171 how bad I have been cutting on it for 2 months and everything was ok.

Anonymous · Answer

How are you, chainsaws, with lubrication and chain tension?

If the bar has a groove and the chain tilts to the side, it will wedge.

If everything was fine after sharpening the chain in the service, it simply requires re-sharpening.
It requires a lot of practice, unless it is done with a special grinder.

If you can't sharpen it yourself, it does more harm than good.
The limiter must be ground according to the table (approximately).
Pitch 3/8 ", 1.1 mm guide tooth width, given from the original guide.
Chainsaw Chain Poor Performance and Overheating: Sharpening and Lubrication Factors

Chainsaw Chain Poor Performance and Overheating: Sharpening and Lubrication Factors

MoniTOX · Answer

Check the oil supply and make sure the oil is not too thin.

Anonymous · Answer

The topic is actually simple and exhausted, as I have already written to replace the chain and probably the guide, gentlemen !!!!!

Anonymous · Answer

Why, in your opinion, if you sharpen a chain several times, it should be replaced? If, after sharpening in the shop, he cut well and after cutting a certain amount of wood, it suddenly turned out to be bad. The guide may be the cause, but I already wrote about it.

Anonymous · Answer

From experience. Chain plus bar and lubrication are the basis, especially the chain. The services are different, but the chain after a few sharpening sucks from my practice.

Anonymous · Answer

You are very confident in your diagnosis. You may know how many times this unfortunate chain has been sharpened, because I somehow missed it.

ziomekk19 · Answer

Gentlemen, the chain was sharpened twice. Today I sawed some wood, especially thin wood. I will tell you how it looks exactly, with the cut of the chain itself, it is ok, it cuts quickly, it means that there is a sharp saw, but after cutting it, as if the teeth do not take the wood at all, the saw gets weaker. I noticed a lot of wear of the guide, i.e. the paint is peeling off, and at the bottom it is a bit yellowed, it is probably from smoking, because when it does not go into the wood, the balloon flies a little. The hot guide that can not be touched as well as the chain. Oil bought in sthil, I think that's not the problem, I don't know what's going on anymore.

Anonymous · Answer

Let's sum up, the chain is good, lubrication is also good, so the guide bar needs to be replaced. It already has a worked out groove and the chain bends to the side, which causes it to wedge. The guide, after it is cut into the wood, tends to cut straight, while the chain that is skewed in it wants to the side, which causes increased friction.
Rotate the guide 180 degrees, see if there is improvement.

ziomekk19 · Answer

I will check tomorrow and let you know, but what could be the reason that the guide has worn out so quickly? I moved the guides after each sharpening by 180 degrees. What will they say on the site? is subject to warranty?

Anonymous · Answer

Rather, don't count on the warranty, and this lubrication is definitely good. The guide is original or some other company?

ziomekk19 · Answer

all original sthila.

sigwa18 · Answer

Check that the star leading the chain has not split at the end of the bar. If so, the chain overheated and you can buy a new strip and chain.

DiZMar · Answer

If it is ok immediately after sharpening, and after cutting a small amount of wood, the problem arises again, the chain to be replaced, it is clear. It dulls too quickly (inadequate steel composition or badly hardened), i.e. for scrap. The fact that only after 2 sharpening is an argument for my diagnosis. Using it forcibly may cause further damage to e.g. the guide bar.

Grzegorz_madera · Answer

This is a poor practice you have. The chain is sharpened until the teeth start breaking out during operation. If the author uses an RS (Stihl) chain, the reason is bad sharpening. It is a professional chain and requires perfect sharpening angles. If you don't have experience, it is better to use RM or PM. The second cause of magic is the limiters (which has already been written about), and the so-called. hair on the guide. It should be ground with a file at an angle of 45 °. Otherwise the saw will not cut into the wood.

ziomekk19 · Answer

only today I saw after yesterday's cut that the saw was crooked, but it wants to go so many to the left or maybe a chain to be replaced? or a groove in the guide? How is it possible for him to get in shape as quickly?

Anonymous · Answer

Overheated material loses its abrasion resistance.
The reason may be e.g. cutting wood contaminated with sand, unsuitable oil or lack of it.
An improperly sharpened chain will also have these effects, as will cutting with a blunt chain.

ziomekk19 · Answer

the chain at the bottom of the bar swings a little to the left and therefore cuts crooked to the left. Is it really the fault of the guide bar, I think the chain is well sharpened. There is no need to talk about oil because it lubricates well. I will add that it cuts crookedly if you press your strength a little because this is how the saw stands still and does not want to cut any further.

Anonymous · Answer

If you exclude the chain, only the guide remains. We will not extend this topic indefinitely. I close.

111111 · Answer

the so-called hair on the guide. It should be ground with a file at an angle of 45 °. Otherwise the saw will not cut into the wood. - What is this weirdness of the so-called hair on the guide?

Anonymous · Answer

Nine years since the last answer to the topic, this is probably a record excavation.

SKM 1964 · Answer

So far, the author of the topic came up with it and polished it. ??

wojtek1234321 · Answer

There is something, such a phenomenon, but it is commonly called wire, not a hair.

Anonymous · Answer

Yes, but this wire-hair does not heat the chain, it only makes it difficult for the guide bar to penetrate the wood. Heating occurs with a worn groove in the guide bar when the chain tilts to the side.

SKM 1964 · Answer

New bar, new chain and good lubrication with recommended oil
by the manufacturer and you'll be fine.

Then sharpening, preferably by machine, and measuring the stops.
There used to be such starters. :|

Added after 1 [minutes]:

Correct chain tension is also important.

wojtek1234321 · Answer

Yes, you are right, but plunging is not that difficult either, as long as the chain is properly sharpened and cuts the wood straight, not like a sausage. Chain teeth, kerf, are much wider than the bar thickness. Blocking the guide bar in the kerf most often causes a bad sharpening of the chain and the saw wants to cut diagonally and then blocks the guide bar.

Chainsaw Chain Poor Performance and Overheating: Sharpening and Lubrication Factors

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