Using a Chainsaw Gauge: STIHL File & Ruler for Oregon Chain, RYOBI RAC221 Sharpening & Angles

Hello.
I recently bought a ruler from STIHL from Allegro and a STIHL flat file. For now, I use it only for filing stops (0.65mm). The chain is Oregon heavily worn (No. 91). How do you use a ruler to check angles?
It is useless for RYOBI ... I intend to buy a RYOBI chain type RAC 221 (3 pieces). I called the service. They don't know much about their products.
I only learned that the sharpening angle with a special round file is 45 degrees. I did not find out what file diameter is used for them. In Oregon it's 4mm and 35 degrees.
As stated in the service "typical file" without giving the diameter.

1. Ruler for stops
2. Ruler for sharpening angles
3. Tool for cleaning and measuring guides
4. Ruler to attack angles
you place the ruler on a chain fixed in the guide bar so that the limiter enters space 1. The limiter dimension is good if its top coincides with the measuring plane. If it sticks out - you are sawing.

You have a stop gauge, in order to sharpen the chain you need at least a file and angle guide with marked sharpening angles and the same measure as what you have, you can have a look at the blades and that, except for sawing the leading tooth, is not useful.

In goggles, enter the file guide are different, it is about maintaining the angle but for the beginning all you need is the cheapest and the simplest. As for the size of the file, I can't help you, it's a 3/8 scale, small 3/8 podział pitch - 4 mm file. The easiest way is to bring the file to the tooth and that's it. Buy measures up to 3/8 and that's it, for example, so you can buy it with most chains adjusted to the scale.


In order not to be, I am a layman and I use such devices myself, bringing the chain is not difficult, it requires only practice in sawing

Hello, my colleague miroix described it very nicely to you. Remember one basic thing - the diameter of the file must be matched to the given cutting chain. If the attacking angle of the teeth is incorrect, it will dramatically change the performance of the saw.

In fact my colleague miroix described it well. For now, I use the vise myself.
I pull the chain off the bar.
My opinion about people who sharpen without removing the chain is bad.
You can crush the guide bar with a vice.
I grinded the corners on the upper part of the old vice.
Looking at the vice, I sharpen as the path shows me.
I was thinking about buying a file with a guide from Oregon. In the end I bought a good Polish file used in chains. Price: PLN 7 bought in Castorama. The file is with a wooden handle.
Listen, does the guide also give you that the file does not rub down, but points directly to the blade?
PS Tomorrow I'm going for these RYOBI chains, I'll try to put on a guy who wants to sell them.
I hope he will fit.

wojtek2004 wrote:

My opinion about people who shoot without removing the chain is bad. You can crush the guide bar with a vice.

With proper attachment there is no option to damage the guide. There are even vices for "field" chain sharpening during work.

You hammer into the stump, attach the saw by the guide bar and easily sharpen the chain.
Youtube >>>> link . link . link . link .

The guides are different, the simplest ones will not hold the angle by themselves, you need to train them, but there are also guides with rollers crimped or put on, I do not recommend guides with holes, holes and filings are uncomfortable. By all means, when properly clamped in a vice, you sharpen directly on the guide bar, nothing will bend.







The roller ones are comfortable, they have already set the angle, but I confess without beating that I stopped playing a long time ago, I just put the file on the screwdriver and set it at an angle and already, we hold the file horizontally, however, we need to hold the file pressing more to the upper edge, we never saw the eyelets in order not to weaken the chain, from time to time I check the leading tooth and that my saw has enough power, I even lower the height a little thanks to it cuts a little faster, it is not done with a weak chain.

wojtek2004 wrote:

PS Tomorrow I'm going for these RYOBI chains. I will try to put on a guy who wants to sell them.
I hope he will fit.

The chain must match the size / pitch of the chain saw, i.e. the pitch of the chain (the size of the star at the end of the guide bar and drive rack is associated with it) and the width of the guide groove.
Size tables:






http://polskidrwal.pl/artykuly/jak-prawidlowo-zamowic-i-dopasowac-lancuch-do-swojej-pilarki/

Hello. The case with the RYOBI chain has a good finale and a happy ending.
Because after unpacking one of the boxes, it turns out that inside is a chain made by Oregon No. 91. So the same as I used .
Thanks for all the hints. I wish you a Merry Christmas.