A power supply for a car compressor or connecting it to a charger

Hello,
at the beginning, I inform you that I am a layman when it comes to matters related to electrics and electronics, I am a complete layman, so I will ask for possible explanations of the problem "like a cow in between".

I have a car compressor with the following parameters:
DC 12 - 13.5V
Max Current: 14 Amp
Marking from the nameplate.

I would like to plug it into an electrical outlet. I know that I have to use a power supply or possibly a rectifier. The charger has a neighbor - I can borrow it. It is not a firm, but a simple one made by him in a cottage way. He measured the value of the current consumption on this rectifier (without load) and it came out: 20 V and 18 A.
Can a compressor be connected to this rectifier - I would not like to burn it?
If so, tell me where on the compressor plug (the cigarette lighter socket) is +: is it on the pin in the middle or on the sides?
Ultimately, I would like to build a power supply for it. And here's a request if any of you have any relatively detailed description and a list of parts to build something like that. It can also be a wiring diagram - I hope my neighbor will help me. I know you will need a transformer and the so-called Gretz system. Anything else? How to build something like this? I have a so-called transformer trioid (that's what it's probably called) from halogen lighting, but I don't know its exact parameters. Can you check them somehow?
It was connected to 4 halogen lamps of 35 W 12V.
Please help.
greetings

Plus it's on the lighter pin.
Take that neighbor's rectifier. connect the H4 55W bulb and then measure the voltage.
This transformer of yours is a bit too weak, but the toroids are resistant to overloads and if you are not going to pump the truck with it, he will be fine.
You only need a gretz bridge and a 4700-10.000uF capacitor (but not necessarily), but it will ensure a more polite work of the compressor.

Thank you for your answer
As for the transformer - what would you recommend and do you have any assembly scheme for such a device?

jarek_seweryn wrote:

He measured the value of the current consumption on this rectifier (without load) and it came out: 20 V and 18 A.

No load 18A? :D

The easiest way is to buy a regular computer power supply, even from a black list. Everyone has at least one + 12V rail. Personally, I did it and it was not a problem, sometimes you just need to add a soft-start, because some power supplies cannot start with such a load, even though they have more power.

Plus it's in the middle, that stick out there. Side weight, depending on the plug, on one or two contacts.

jarek_seweryn wrote:

I have a so-called transformer trioid (that's what it's probably called) from halogen lighting, but I don't know its exact parameters. Can you check them somehow?

Toroidal. What's the voltage? Measure, or read the description, type of transformer.

jarek_seweryn wrote:

I know you will need a transformer and the so-called Gretz system.

Yes, and that's enough. A friend of this simple type also powered the compressor to create pressure in the water system, but due to the high compressor current, about 10A, he switched to the battery, the charger was up to 6A, it worked, but he heated too much, the higher the pressure, the more the compressor loaded it .
The neighbor's rectifier may be too strong with voltage, the compressor may suffer, you should not exceed 15V here.

https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic500562.html here on the fig you have the simplest power supply, of course for other currents to your needs. It can be and without capacitors. Bridge or diodes with reserve.

The neighbor's rectifier may have a soft transform, the measurement without load will not tell you anything, who knows if there is still a capacitor there and showed the peak value.

The halogen transformer should be ok, since so far it worked with a current of 11A (4x35W). The compressor consumes 14A at maximum working pressure, so there's no need to tear your hair. Only a suitable rectifier bridge (possibly with a small heat sink).

Yes, but what this compressor is for, inflating balloons for carnival or making 5 atmospheres.
I had such a strong, several times inflating the wheels in the excavator to 5.5 atm - he did not want more, one hour of pumping, two, after these "several times" the bearing in the compressor flew. The year is done. And he was so nice, foreign
I flew from the alternator and the battery, the transformer will last for a long time?

14A draws near its maximum pressure, when inflating balloons it is practically idle, maybe it will draw from 7A.
Sooner this compressor will break down.

If it is a ladybug compressor for PLN 30 with only a pressure gauge that fits in the palm of your hand, I started it through an ammeter, without a load around 2-3A, but during start-up it was around 6A.

Hi.
Can I start the compressor from the car charger without the risk of damage?

It depends on what rectifier you have and what you want to pump, mine will give 10A, but it also turned off on my friend's pump.
This charger has a fuse? In theory, only he will fly.

Probably too little ampere, rectifier:



And here's the compressor:


12v
120W

I get out that he needs 10A?

I used to have a similar compressor to pump air into an airbrush. There was practically no load and the engine took about 4A. When inflating the balloons it can be similar - try to know.

Exactly what I need for an airbrush.

How to connect the charger to the compressor tip - cigarette lighter input?

Plus to the lower "Dziubek" and Minus to the side gills?
Will not burn the rectifier?

Hello, buddy, MajmajxD, you will not connect any device to this rectifier except the battery, it is a microprocessor rectifier that needs a voltage output to run, and it is a bit awkward to connect someone to the topic, best regards.

You need to read about the charger, what protection it has, and most importantly, will it work without a battery.
I have an indicator, an ammeter, weakly active, but with a similar pump, just like the presenter wrote - it was ok 4A at ease ...

What's wrong with connecting to the topic? Probably better than setting up another one.

Well, I will look for an old PC power supply.

Will such a power supply for a car refrigerator be good for a 12V car compressor?
Stabilized impulse power supply used for devices requiring DC 12V DC
Input Voltage: AC 100-240V 50 / 60Hz 2.0A
Output Voltage: DC 12V
Current: 15A
Power: 180W

Really no one has a clue about this?

ycbo wrote:

Really no one has a clue about this?

It has, it has ... It's just that it is not known whether this power supply is resistant to temporary overloads - whether, for example, it will not block or turn off. The engine consumes much more current during start-up than during normal operation (I have already written about it several times in the forum). Even if nominally during operation it will consume 4A, it may also be 20A during start-up - if a switching power supply, it would have to be resistant to such momentary currents, and it is often the case that it can be loaded nominally up to 10A, but as soon as this value is exceeded blocks or "samples" giving voltage for a moment - more current will flow (because the motor is standing), the power supply will turn off, in a moment it will supply voltage again - too high current, so it will turn off again and again ...
Note that your colleagues offered you a power supply based on a transformer - the transformer has the advantage that it can withstand momentary overloads without any problems and at most when the engine is turned on, this voltage will drop a bit, but the engine will start.

Exactly, as if it was a transformer ... because I burned two 12 / 220V converters on a 60W laptop power supply, one 100W, the other 200W. Also ... they were cheap ... but the stench remained.
It should work, but for how long, which will depend on the quality of the power supply - whether it is from refrigerators or down because there may be a difference, and the inscriptions on it may be misleading.
As yes, 180W will withstand a start, at least my pump did not break the 10A fuse from the cigarette lighter socket in the car. So in theory, it was less than 120W. I have not noticed in my power supply, the needle is rubbing and reacting poorly
Is there a Peltier in the refrigerator?
Such a link probably evenly it receives the current, and does not disturb the power supply, unlike an electric motor with brushes. These can spark, so the question is also what about the power supply? I do not know.
I have not connected to the impulse power supply with such an engine yet.

g107r wrote:

Peltier link
......... evenly receives the current

Exactly. Evenly.

g107r wrote:

unlike an electric motor with brushes. These can spark

The sparking in this case is a pimple (though not insignificant). The point is that the rotor standing is a resistive load for the power supply, in addition equal to the resistance of the winding connected to the brushes. And this is a very small value - for example in my motor with a compressor it is from 1 ohms to 2.5 ohms (depending on how the rotor is positioned).

g107r wrote:

I have not connected to the impulse power supply with such an engine yet.

I tried (the engine itself - removed from the compressor) and the effect was as described above - I tried it. When it was manually turned at the right moment, it sometimes managed to start, but there is no such possibility in the compressor.

This is such a power supply:
https://allegro.pl/oferta/zasilacz-do-lodowki-samochodowej-230v-12v-180w-15a-8902823333
It is to power a compressor added to the Mercedes instead of a spare wheel.

ycbo wrote:

This is such a power supply

So to power the Peltier cell of the refrigerator.
It can jam with the compressor motor.