Bleeding Cooling System in BMW E46 1.9 Gasoline: Can It Run Without a Thermostat?

Hello
It is very difficult to bleed the cooling system.
Thermostat pulled out. In summer it is an option, but is it better for venting alone?

Until now, I have always vented cooling systems without removing the thermostat - I am a bit surprised why someone does it. After flooding the engine with cooling liquid, I start the engine and it is supposed to warm up at low speed until the fan on the radiator turns on. I turn off the engine, carefully unscrew the tank cap (so that the liquid does not shoot out and burns me) and, if necessary, add the liquid to the level between min-max on the expansion tank. Some cars have additional air vents in the system, which when the engine is running, opens until the fluid appears (while the engine is running) and that's it.
You can drive without a thermostat - but what for? The engine then reaches the right temperature and therefore burns more, which is more difficult in winter.

BMW is quite "specific" to bleed, but anything can be done. Read on the bmw-sport.pl forums, for example. There are tons of topics, just search. Some have patents to raise the front of the car higher and flood the ignition with liquid, I haven't tried it yet, but apparently it makes the work much easier and faster .

magir wrote:

After flooding the engine with cooling liquid, I start the engine and it is supposed to warm up at low speed until the fan on the radiator turns on. I turn off the engine, carefully unscrew the tank cap (so that the liquid does not shoot out and burns me) and, if necessary, add the liquid to the level between min-max on the expansion tank.

Not a BMW that bleeds like this

Cobrat wrote:

Some have patents to raise the front of the car higher and flood the ignition with liquid, I haven't tried it yet, but apparently it makes the work much easier and faster .

For this, the airflow must be set to hot and the fan to the maximum.

Jezior2000 wrote:

It is very difficult to bleed the cooling system.

And how hard it is, getting the thermostat out is stupid.

There seems to be a switching thermostat. While I do not know whether the venting is affected by its presence or not, you can fry the engine without this thermostat, and at least expect a raging temperature (even if it was to be inoperative, it would be better than if it was not there at all).

This car can be vented without access to the workshop (front up, ignition, heating to max. Or 32 degrees if automatically controlled , vent and slowly flood). If you have an efficient cooling system (this applies to leaks - thanks to them it will air again when it cools down, as well as the rest - no thermostat is not an efficient system) and you vented enough that the engine temperature is not freaky and there is heating, it will get rid of the rest on its own, fill the cavities from time to time on the cold, at some point it will cease to decline.

You can drill a hole in the thermostat for venting, if there is no such vent, or drill a hole in the highest point of the cooling system, screw in a stub pipe and connect it with a hose to the expansion tank.

Bleeding goes and without starting the engine. It is enough to pour the liquid through the vents. As for the question in the title - can not !

I, for example, pours liquid and pumps with a hose and always enters almost as much as it is supposed to enter.

He vented after extinguishing the refill and the next extinguishing and so on. The car is driven without a thermostat. At the end, it turned out to be a leak from the stub pipe or head - such a philosophy. You have to put the thermostat on and fill it with liquid after removing leaks. Thank you for suggestions.

In the event of a leak, especially at the block, it will probably air out during cooling (it still depends on how big the leak is).

In this engine, the cold thermostat opens the circuit on the engine itself and the radiator is closed, the hot radiator can is closed and it closes between the block parts. Without a thermostat, you have an open circuit and on the block and on the radiator, the fluid will circulate as it wishes, you can have an underheated part of the block and another part of the block overheated at the same time, and you will find out only after the damage. This engine can handle a lot but is not indestructible. Also, limit driving in this condition to a minimum, because the head or the rings may be overhauled.