Water Heating in Pool with Cast Iron Chamotte Furnace (Goat), Copper Coil Pipes & CWU Pump

Hello

In connection with the upcoming summer season, I decided to make the water heating in the pool using a cast iron chamotte furnace (goat).
In my plans is welding the copper coil pipes which will be placed in the furnace. Swimming pool for 4x2x0.7 dimensions, the water will be pumped with a CWU pump. Could someone have already used such a solution? What pipe diameters should be used? Or maybe a bent pipe is suitable for this?

The simplest method is to insert an old metal heater into the fire, a heater connected to the water pump.

I only know two problems:
-rust
-small child (the stove will be closed in the basement which is the chimney)

pablo20004 wrote:

Water heating in the pool using a goat

Put the goat in the pool - and the water will heal your temper and bathe yourself . And really, what are you going to "tan" this goat? Because heat exchange is another matter, it is not better to use a solar collector, by definition having a much higher coefficient of heat energy absorption from solar radiation than a water surface that reflects it.

Burn a charcoal tree, and the collector is relatively much higher investment and must be the sun.

pablo20004 wrote:

The collector is a relatively much higher investment and must be the sun.

Yes, but the fuel for the "goat" also costs.As to the sun, the infrared radiation also arrives on a cloudy day.Also, count Dear Friend, the specific heat of this mass of water (pool) and how many kilocalories you need to bring to heat it water even at 1 ° C. However, the solar collector would work constantly. This is not the way, despite the ecology.

And such a simple heater link pass the exam here is about heating by some 5 degrees?

I think, yes, and certainly better than the goat. You have to count - how much of this pool has capacity?

The pool has less than 6 m3.

For me, a 5m3 pool is heated from a CO boiler to an eco-pea coal, which almost does nothing in the summer. For the pool I put 100m PE pipe of the black used in gardening to water its diameter of 20mm. Water poured into the pool on Saturday evening and on Sunday afternoon the water was 37 degrees. Just a revelation. Later we did not heat this water anymore. Throughout the season, the water was not even changed, it lasted in perfect condition from June to September. This year, the swimming pool is not spread until the end of July after returning from vacation. Immediately with heating. The cost is about PLN 100 plus a circulating pump CO.

I have to think about an interesting way and put the pipe at the bottom of the pool ?? does not interfere with use?

Not a circle of 100mb bound in several places. Unfortunately, you have to charge it because it flows to the surface. The water movement was ensured by a typical pool pump and in total the water was evenly heated. Here in the picture the pipe is not yet bound to the mountain only and has slightly delaminated.
As you can see, it takes up little space.

Oh, basically, the easiest way, as usually you can always pull out the pool and already. And tell me a lot of you burned peas during this heating, what you described earlier?

Unfortunately, I can not answer this question. For me, on the square, I have 3 eco-pea coal boilers, one at home and two in farm buildings that work all year round, and to be honest, no one pays attention to the fuel consumption. It is supposed to burn in them already. I am missing coal, I take a forklift and bring another pallet under the boiler room. It may not be economical, but I do not have time to stand by the stove. If there is another fuel, I will change something in those boilers in farm buildings. One of them is connected to a swimming pool. At home, the boiler goes on PID controllers, measures the temperature of the heat and the temperature of the exhaust gases and selects the dosage itself. It can be set like traditional feeding, but I have not tried it until today.
The only problem that comes with connecting it for the first time is to circulate in this heater. I have about 15m from the pool from the boiler room. I fill these tubes with water and then connect one end to the boiler. I'm just dropping the water and then connect the other end. I just have it easier because halfway to the pool I have two connectors because sometimes when the truck enters the square I have to disconnect it because as you know too many of these tubes would not be left. As a load, I use a field stone with 10kg lying on this loop. Its advantage is that it does not get dirty. And it does not absorb water. In the past, Grandma used it to pickled cabbage in a barrel to press it.
I was also thinking how to separate the pool water circuit from the water circulation in the boiler. At first it was supposed to be done using a heat exchanger, but I did not know whether it would be possible to buy a plate heat exchanger for testing. Another thought is a boiler that I had with a small simple leak to weld. Well, in the end, I have such a thought with these pipes and it's ok. Of course, the problem arose how to connect to the boiler non-invasively. I did it a little professionally because it was only for the test but this year it will be the same because the connectors were at the boiler. The power supply has been connected to the cork in which the additional thermometer is screwed into the boiler. For me it was not there for it there was a 3/4 inch plug behind it, I put in a circulating pump and you know it to the pool. The return was again connected unusually because the valve for filling the water in the boiler was also 3/4 inch. So it took place without interfering in the pipes of the CO installation which in my case are in the case of 6/4 inch boilers and it would be difficult. Anyway, as I wrote it was made to be as simple as possible because only for a try. This year I will not change anything. For this I recommend this solution to everyone. It was nice once when it was raining in the evening it was quite chilly and we warmly bathed our family in a warm pool and then quickly home.

janek1815 wrote:

I put 100m PE pipe into the pool ...

After how many meters is the pipe already cooled to the pool water temperature?
If, for example, after 10m, the remaining 90m does not give heat exchange, it only increases the flow resistance.

I will not tell you this because I did not check. The pipe is rolled into a circle and it can be a problem to define it. However, the return to the boiler is warmer than the water in the pool, so it warms throughout the whole length. Well, one more thing I did not write and others will probably be a less efficient source of heat because the boiler to which I connected the pool has 50kW of power. For a smaller one it will look different but it's worth trying. Tube meter is about PLN 1 + CH pump.

In principle, you can use the existing pump at the furnace. I will probably decide on the way Janek is just as interesting as the 15 kW oven will do.

I suspect that he can handle it without any problem, maybe he will go down a bit longer. I am the only change this year that I will introduce this location to the styrodur pool. I start the season around July 20 after returning from a three-week vacation.