Calculating the Optimal Hose Length for Solar Swimming Pool Heating System

Question

I made myself a solar for heating the water in the pool. It consists of two OSB boards, painted black, and a fi20 100m hose. To pump the water from the pool, to the solars and back to the pool, I used the dirty water pump which is located at the bottom of the pool. Its capacity is 9000l / min....

teskot · Answer

You don't need a high-performance pump, just a high-pressure pump. Look around for Soviet diaphragm well pumps.

gruniu · Answer

Something like that? - pump-to-water-membranow-gornossaca-glebinowa-ruska- Is the pump hanging or standing? I found a description: Max. Pumping height: 70m. I am looking for who I can borrow from, why buy if it doesn't work.

teskot · Answer

Basically something like this. But it smells like Chinese fake. A real Russian pump will not have a Schuko plug, or some strange stickers. More like Cyrillic lettering. Besides, this pump is suspiciously cheap.

zimny8 · Answer

It would work, but these pumps are very loud, when I had one in the stream, the fish ran away, and not only, and the neighbors complained.
Better divide this hose into equal sections (maybe connect 10 pieces of 5 meters in parallel), you will reduce the flow resistance and then the pump with lower pressure will be able to handle it.

gruniu · Answer

Noise, I would rather not be disturbed, because it is sitting in the pool at the bottom anyway. 1.2m underwater. I repeat the question once again: the pump is standing or hanging. Tomorrow I will put a tee between the solar segments and check if the dirty water pump pushes. A good argument for changing the pump is the power consumed. Dirty water pump (mine): 800W. Diaphragm pump: 200W

teskot · Answer

Hanging. It can be lying in this application - I see no contraindications.

Xantix · Answer

No argument. Plus you get it wrong. A pump with 800 W of rated power does not mean that it consumes that much. Besides, something for something. How less power is, and less efficiency. You need less capacity and more pressure, which would reduce the flow resistance. Alternatively, as a colleague above suggested, divide the hose into several shorter sections and connect them in parallel. Although the fi 20 hose is a difficult opponent for dirty water pumps. These pumps have a low head but high capacity and therefore require large hoses such as 1 1/2 or 2 inches in diameter. With hoses around 3/4 inch, this is a problem because the flow resistance is so high that the water flows like blood from the nose. IMHO can use a larger circulation pump than CO? Only then it cannot be flooded, but it must be combined with installation outside the pool and protection against electric shock ...

gruniu · Answer

I was already thinking about the CO pump. I would connect it to the pool drain plug. Water pressure alone pushes water into the pump.

zimny8 · Answer

Do you want to sit in the pool with this pump? Well, your friend did not understand when it was humming, it vibrates mercilessly, everything, water around, earth and air. And there is also the risk of electrocution. Already here many have described the solution, take a circulation pump from the CO, connect in series good cross-sections of hoses.

gruniu · Answer

Pump will be pulled out while bathing. If the water is buzzing, that's good.

Tommy82 · Answer

These pumps come in different build quality. In the village, we have been using these for 25 years in a well, a neighbor grows a greengrocer near our house and waters her daily.
In the well, the pump is practically inaudible.
There's a massacre outside. This pump can work in any position.
It is as simple as an anvil, a coil that attracts, say, a vibrator with a diaphragm and a rubber plug as a non-return valve. The fastening of this mushroom often breaks, i.e. it breaks into the holes through which the pump sucks water.
These papas are what you get. One of them worked for 10 years, and the other even a new one did not want to work because this vibrator in the middle of the stroke did not have and it was necessary to improve a bit with flex. In general, the coil in them is flooded with resin should be, but I have already seen those where this step was omitted, the fear of touching it even when the power was not turned on.

gruniu · Answer

Cheap Chinese are generally available everywhere. What do you propose to buy. I borrow such a pump for Sunday. I will describe the effects.

Anonymous · Answer

Connect both sections in parallel, eliminate kinks on the bands and describe the impressions.

Sofeicz · Answer

What is the point of spending 800W of pump power to drive the collector with a comparable yield (I estimate by eye)? Art for art.

zimny8 · Answer

Pump heat loss adds up to solar collector yield? .

JacekCz · Answer

This is a general fashion with green solutions, unfortunately. And by the way you have shown your engineering reflexes

Anonymous · Answer

Gentlemen with 'engineering reflexes', such a pump when working in the vicinity of Hmax, which takes place here, takes a fraction of the power from the rating plate, around 30% ... And all of this energy is given to the water in the pool. Such a hybrid heater, Fr. efficiency > 100%.

gruniu · Answer

I connected a tee between the hoses and turned on the pump. Water flows from two hoses. Now a temperature regulator that will regulate the pump operation.

Sofeicz · Answer

I would argue. The founder of the thread writes that this pump did not produce such pressure resistance, so it worked to the maximum. PS. As for the collector itself, I would suggest covering it with some glass. This would greatly improve the efficiency. I'm not talking about replacing the plastic hose with a blackened copper tube. Such a plastic garden hose is a good insulator, which in this case is a disadvantage.

gruniu · Answer

Today I manually controlled the pump on the regulator. Water so hot I couldn't touch it. The temperature sensor (for the regulator) is also mounted on the hose, but I have to attach it to the hose so that the measurement results are reliable and then set the regulator.
Now the question is: how to mount the sensor?
The regulator and the sensor are as follows: https://www.google.pl/search?q=rex+c100&clien...05rVAhWmE5oKHd96B9wQ_AUICigBE4hiw=t1920&im3MW = 91620&Cbigr:
Drill a hole in the hose and screw in the sensor, making a thread, and then seal it with silicone or glue?

Anonymous · Answer

You see such a contradiction, the more you choke it, the less power it draws. But it is engraved on the characteristics of this type of pump.

gruniu · Answer

The whole installation is in pictures. Everything works great. Also covering the snakes with plexiglass.

harry1250 · Answer

9000l / min? 11000l / min? Are you sure? I saw a large combustion engine fire pump in action, it pulled water from the lake for 8h. It was 4200l / min

Norek+ · Answer

300m of fi20mm tube of a very similar design, a coil on the roof of the garage, a 800L / H pump (eight hundred liters), a small plastic 12V, bought from the so-called majfrends, it works and that's it. 24h, consumption 22W at constant 12V. It can be sunken or installed somewhere next to the pool, in my case it sits in the pool

szwaggier89 · Answer

The most reliable pump would be used for what. Surely it will squeeze the water and the electricity is tiny

mikefriday070779 · Answer

Mink Could you please clarify what pump you have? Thank you.

Karol966 · Answer

By the way, I have a question, is there any sense in using a regulator? With the regulator, we heat the water in the hoses and then pour it pleasantly, even hot, into the pool in portions of ~ 20 l for a 20 mm pipe (or ~ 30 liters for a 25 pipe). And when such a solar works all the time, it evenly heats the water in the pool - will the final result be different in both cases?
On sunny days, the solar with continuous flow may be slightly wet and this may worsen its efficiency?
I'm just thinking about it

On the other hand, all collectors for heating water always have regulators ... Only there we heat up to high temperatures and we do not want to force colder water into the reservoir than the accumulated one, and here, however, even the 1'C warmer at the outlet of the pool collector heats the pool as a whole. The point is also that the pool filter usually works all the time, so it could pump through this collector all the time. I'm going to use a 25 tube, also 2 collectors, and I can also do them in parallel, 50 meters each, so the resistance would be even lower.

Andrzej42 · Answer

Underneath, instead of osb, I would put a thick aluminum sheet in black, hoses with four or eight in parallel and spread over a larger surface (the greater the more energy). There is no high temperature, covering with glass will not help.
And the original pump from the filter could not be?

Tadek B · Answer

I have the impression that this method of winding causes the water to be up almost as much as it is down. In my humble opinion, the solar panel should be wound from top to bottom. At the ends of the horizontal tubes, we give an elbow because the hose will not bend well and jam the hole. Why do I think so? Because I have a reservoir with water over the solar panel and the water won't go. Too much resistance. I will rebuild the solar from a circular winding to a horizontal one and we'll see how it falls out. Nowadays, hot water for free is a big benefit. The water will fall by gravity without the need for a pump. We just fill the tank.

Calculating the Optimal Hose Length for Solar Swimming Pool Heating System

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