Choosing 12V Tamiya Battery for RC Car & Charger Options: Use Existing LiPo Charger?

Hello all!
I recently purchased a remote control car. Its only drawback is that there is no battery, and I am completely green on this topic and I do not know what to buy. The plug is Tamiya and the previous owner only said that the voltage should be 12V. I don't want this battery to cost too much. I suspect that there are also the costs of the charger, so in addition to uploading a photo of the car, I will also add a photo of the lipo charger that I have. Maybe I can choose something so that I do not have to buy a new one, but only use this one?
I also have one more question. Together with the car, I got a pilot, which is quite obvious. I can see that it can be powered with 8 sticks, but I also noticed an input for a mains charger in it. Can someone meet with such remote controls and explain to me how it is most profitable to power it and if you can also use rechargeable batteries, what power supply to buy? I am asking for an answer in easy language so that I understand. Thanks in advance for reading my problem.

Nice machine, especially the idea with a voltage regulator.
Note that some sources say that the supply voltage is 7.4V

AA batteries or rechargeable batteries for the apparatus in terms of voltage, charging possibility
in the apparatus, if you do not have a charger for the apparatus, it is only batteries.
Device charger measure the plug size and check where it is - and +.
For the toy car, the 11.1V package, the capacity and size, must be checked by yourself, which will fit into the pocket in the model (enter dimensions),
800mA charger it is not a big charge value.
Are the markings and voltage on the motor?
For example
LiPO TURNIGY 20C / 40C 1500mAh 11.1V ASG (6662361442) replacement plug.
Dimensions: 98 x 31 x 20mm

1. AA finger transmitter 8 pieces - you can use AA rechargeable batteries - and - in the absence of a separate charger, charge it with an ordinary small 12V power supply plugged into the transmitter socket. Charging on time - and long (charger about 400 mA is enough) - there will be no risk of damaging the batteries.
From the autopsy - if you play rarely - use ordinary cheap akalic sticks (e.g. Aerocell from Lidl - maybe not ecological but cheap) or rechargeable batteries with a long discharge time (e.g. Sanyo Eneloop or GP ReCyko) - self-discharge of ordinary NiMH can lead to a shoemaker passion (it is always the case that you do not have to drive and if you just want to go racing, it turns out that the batteries are dead).

2. Something does not seem to me to be 11-12V - the niche for the package (a photo from the side and above would be nice - dimensioned) looks like a standard Ni-Mh 7.2V package with semicircular sides set transversely (including bumpers as vividly reminds me of a construction from my Overlander Tamiya). For such charging, unfortunately, a powerful charger with automation dedicated to NiMH.
The use of LiIon (if I am right about fixing the package) is very difficult - even the soft package does not enter such a niche - you have to saw off the original socket (to the detriment of the frame strength) or completely re-furnish the structure of the model - place the package on the top of the frame and the receiver and the regulator (your own by the way, it would be useful to replace it with an electronic one - even a Chinese one for 60 zlotys) to stuff it in a niche on the akku or on the sides of the frame.
And your charger - if you decide on LiIon / LiPo - stopper - the average akku has a capacity of 4000 mAH upwards, so charging with your charger would take 5 hours (and the fun half .....).

pawel5061 wrote:

the owner only said that the voltage should be 12V

Note that some sources say that the supply voltage is 7.4V
Try to find the name of the car model symbol, it will make it easier to provide the necessary components
seeding system and package dimensions.

Thanks for the quick response! I have already looked for any data on the model of the car and the voltage on the engine, but there is nothing like this: / Maybe it will be hidden somewhere and I would have to disassemble these plastics to remove the engine and read (I would prefer to avoid it, but if this is the best option, I will do it) ).
As for the pockets - it actually has rounded sides and is transverse. Its dimensions are 2.5 cm high by 5 cm wide at its widest point (see photos).
However, if it is 7.4V, it would be more convenient for me because I have such lipo packages (photo). Maybe their parallel connection will increase the capacity ???
I will follow the advice on the transmitter and buy ordinary Lidl sticks, because I do not intend to use the car often.
So the only problem is the voltage of the car's battery. I will add a few more photos showing the car from different sides, if we do not come up with anything, I will try to disassemble it and look for the markings on the engine.

Link to the package http://www.sklep.modelarnia.pl/p5181,pakiet-lipol-1600mah-7-4v-30-60c-ray-g3-air-pack.html
dimensions: 105 x 35 x 11 mm
Of course, the more expensive package is not required in this system, the current efficiency as high as 30 / 60C.
You can go ahead and plug in that existing 7.4V 1600mAh pack after being charged with a LiPo charger.
If the motor is 12V, it is possible to switch to the 11.1V package, but the brush motors always overheat after intensive driving.
Check the dimensions of the engine.
Combining two packets with different capacities is a disgusted idea.
I recommend for LiPo packages https://abc-rc.pl/buzzer-miernik-tester-1-8S-lipol#axzz4f47HZ7fQ

99% of the factory was NiMH 7.2V package. (Anyway, at the time of the production of this model - judging by the age of the construction - there was no LiPo yet and the most voltage NiMH had 9.6V, but it would not physically fit into your model).
As Paweł wrote - you can ride your LiPo but you will get 10 minutes at the most.
So if you want to have fun longer - you will have to buy a package at least 4000 mAh and a powerful charger.
You can either buy NiMH (advantages - the price and it fits your car right away, disadvantages - more serious: from half of the capacity left, it gradually weakens, at the end there is creep, and due to the specificity of NiMH you have to leave it to the end; less important: lower current efficiency on LiPo but for your brushed motor, too much, and the regime should not waste it after a year - discharging and charging fully every month) or LiPo (advantages - there are not all disadvantages of the above mentioned, disadvantages: without a combination or buying a smaller one, there will be no without modifications, the car fit mechanically).
As for charging - fun makes sense if you use a powerful charger - the current ones support all types of batteries.


PS. Your model is Tamiya's TL-01 - probably original. Here: http://www.zabawki-modele.pl/pl/692-tamiya-tl-01?p=4 (and also on this website in the section: racks and in sections regarding Land Buster, Twin Detontor, Overlander, TL -01B,) you will find most parts, most also fit from a modern copy of TL-01B: Bonzer.
For good morning, change the ball bearings in wheels and gears (look for dimensions on A ... o - it will be 5x cheaper than in specialist stores) and you can retrofit your model with a 4-wheel drive by mocking the sprockets. driveshafts and front socket)

Thank you for your help!