[Solved] VW Golf 4 / 1.9TDI / 90km - After firing up I don't even work and kick.

I warmly welcome,
This is my problem that I have been struggling with for several months. Car as the title, 1.9 TDI engine. While driving and overtaking, he suddenly jumped in and pulled like a young bull forward, after which everything returned to normal and the car reached its destination. On the next May day (plus temperature), in the morning on the cold engine appeared uneven engine operation (as if the gar did not smoke) and kicking (the stench of unburned oil). After 2 minutes everything returns to normal, the car walks evenly, does not kick, it gathers normally.
Ever since then on a cold heap. Once more or less once more. What I did: replacing the temperature sensor because it was dead, candles checked with an ohmmeter and they are ok, the injection tips are replaced and the injections checked, which are ok. Oil is not depleted, the fluid is not contaminated with oil. People write that the turbine sucked in and the car went but now it goes like a chisel after warming up and it does not kick. As if the turbine and power would have run out. Please help. Tomek - Wroclaw

Hello. According to me, the problem lies on the side of the pump adjuster unless you have a crammed BOX.

How can you please more clearly what is this BOX. I would add that I seem to hear a slight metallic clatter, equal to the rotation. Oh. There was a pump man at my place and he said that the jump could be cut off.

It was not the pump that got stuck, but the pump adjuster as a result of accumulated swarf. The injection pump comes out with a cable with an oval plug, see if this plug is not attached as if a splitter at the end with a plastic box.

You have bent connecting rods after this action

sulof1601 wrote:

While driving and overtaking, he suddenly jumped in and pulled like a young bull

The car went on vacation and I will have it in a week, I will check it as you say. Mr. Adam7009 - if I have bent connecting rods, why does the car walk after 2 minutes normally?

As the engine warms up, combustion improves and stops smoking.
Maybe only one connecting rod bent, I don't know ...

How would the connecting rod be bent? first of all, it would have to suck in oil, secondly, the crooked connecting rod has a much lower compression ratio and would kick white non-stop. The engine temperature will not change anything here.

sidorboss wrote:

While driving and overtaking, he suddenly jumped in and pulled like a young bull forward,

then he sucked in oil.
90% of cases end this way, i.e. with a bent connecting rod. The mechanic now I see you should know after all.

I only agree with the angle of this oil since it claims that the turbine works without a problem? It just wonders me ......

Exactly. If it is connecting rods, then through the turbine, which runs smoothly, there is no decrease in power and oil would decrease. And the smell of unburned oil - that is, something that comes in contact with oil.

Unfortunately, you won't fool yourself. For 100% crank - definitely one. It is possible that it was not the turbo that caused oil to enter the combustion chamber. Unscrew the candles and check the compression on cold and you will already know.

sulof1601 wrote:

How would the connecting rod be bent? first of all, it would have to suck in oil, secondly, the crooked connecting rod has a much lower compression ratio and would kick white non-stop. The engine temperature will not change anything here.

Well, that the temperature of the engine has a lot to do here (too cold it will kick unburned oil, on warm it will be ok). I see that you have not processed many such cases.

Are you sure you want to check compression on a cold? Is it enough to unscrew the candles when checking? I heard that the injection rail should be removed.

And since the connecting rod, why did he never bury and kick when riding in white or gray there?

take it, don't fool yourself that you will change the candle or any other sensor and it will be ok

sidorboss wrote:

Are you sure you want to check compression on a cold? Is it enough to unscrew the candles when checking? I heard that the injection rail should be removed.

And since the connecting rod, why did he never bury and kick when riding in white or gray there?

You have to unscrew them because you check the pressure through them. What rail are you talking about? You have a motor on a VP pump

I unscrewed the candles, disconnected the fuel and checked the pressure on a cold engine:
1 - 25.5
2 - 27
3 - 24.5
4 - 27.5
But I will add that after removing the candles, 3 of them are burned at the end, as if chipped, fourth like new.

I replaced the candles, made injections, injection angle and nothing. I ended up replacing the engine. The reason - one of the pistons was pulled out sideways on the wall so there is nothing to worry about, it's a waste of money. But all the new parts were suitable for the donor engine.