Fiat 126p Elegant Z97R: Carburetor Adjustment, Idle Speed, Valve Clearance & Ignition Tuning

Hello, I have a question about 126p elegant z97r. Well, I had no regulation of the idle speed at all, the screw was completely unscrewed. I was terribly irritated by this high speed so I decided to find another carburetor. I cleaned it, set the float, blew it, etc. I adjusted the valve clearance right away because there was good access. After installing the carburetor, I unscrewed the screw of the mixture composition, something about 1-1.5. I could not set it, the throttle cable was removed and the engine throttled and went out when the throttle was opened quickly. I came to this point that the engine was choking, but not going out. After covering about 15 km, the mass electrode was the color of light coffee with milk, but the metal housing inside was all black.

I noticed someone fiddling with the ignition. The roller position sensor relative to the original line and arrow was lowered. I found in parts another unmoved bracket and the arrow coincides with the line, but now when adjusting the carburetor, the mixture composition adjustment screw reacts only after unscrewing 1mm from a full turn, I will do about max 1.2 revs and the engine speed drops and the engine goes out (although it is said that when adjusting, unscrew 1-1.5 revs and adjust), for me it is maybe 1 revolution unscrewed, but the engine continues to choke. It smokes heavily in the cold. Black smoke is visible when gassing. It does not hit the rpm, and after driving 10 km, the candles are black, i.e. too much fuel pounds, or does not burn. What to do?? Look for another carburetor ?? Ps. I made the adjustment on a warm engine with the air filter on. Once I touched the carburetor elbow with my hand to turn off the engine, surprisingly, the engine did not go down, the revs decreased and that's all about it, I was sure there was left air, I unscrewed the elbow and started the car and put my hand on the carburetor and immediately went out and felt gas on my fingers, I did the same with the foil and after applying it went out, so apparently the elbow or the carburetor is not even because it catches the left air, although I changed the seals for new ones.

Checked:
New candles with a gap of 0.7 mm from the electrode
new wires
The carburetor cleaned, changed O-ring on the mixture change screw,
Changed sensor support in which the arrow coincides with the dash,
New air filter
New fuel filter.
fresh fuel.
Nanoplex blue.

I have a solenoid valve, but the old idle nozzle is unscrewed and inserted.
There is also a vacuum sensor, which is probably connected, but there is no hose going to the carburetor base because the base is of the old type without outlets.

On the old carburetor, which had a high idle speed, the candles were rust, dark rust, but he did not have much power and sometimes he burned 8 9 liters. then I did 240km on one tank and decided to do something about it, but as you can see the problems themselves arose.
I am asking for your understanding

I probably won't find advice on all the problems, but I want to remind you that we leave the carburetor regulations at the end. You already have valves out of your head but we don't know what compression is - it's worth investigating. You need to check the ignition. In this version, a strobe would probably be good. When you have it, take it behind the carburetor. The fact that the engine goes out as you choke on the carburetor is not included in the scope of any tests. It will prove absolutely nothing but the engine going out due to lack of air. Left air must be eliminated with a new gasket for the carburettor. Above the carburetor this is of minimal importance.

In the carburetor you installed there are some (what?) Nozzles (reamed?), An unknown fuel level that significantly affects everything. Adjustment screw composition is very simple and if the engine does not react as expected then the error is elsewhere. I am based on general experience from old carburetors but the rules are unchanged. After turning about 2 turns you need to look for a place where you can find the maximum speed. It all reduces to a minimum throttle opening. This works best at the minimum possible speed. Then you set them to the correct throttle. Difficult cold firing can mean a too poor mixture due to, for example, low fuel level. Black smoke - too rich but maybe no rings? or valve stem sealers? - check the compression. 15 km is not enough for candle analysis (both equal?) And it is not a complete analysis. I recommend the exhaust gas analyzer for regulation, there were once special candles with a glass sight glass; also a brilliant patent because it's cheap. I don't know if you can buy it today.

Later when the weather improves I will try to miss something with it. I don't have a strobe lamp and I don't have any way to check the compression, but I know that the rings were replaced some 10,000 km ago. He doesn't take oil, he doesn't smoke in blue . I will try to embrace this ignition and compression at the mechanic after the picnic. Now I will change the carburetor to another one and see what happens. I am still concerned about this ignition. PS as for the float, I set it myself, 7mm closed from the seal and 15mm open from the seal, set with a drill .

Well, we assume that the engine is operational and the ignition needs to be set. From poverty you can in the dark with a large neon lamp with a wire wrapped around the ignition wire. Be careful because such a neon lamp kicks well so you have to give it its other pole to the ground. I don't remember how many floats should be installed. The closing distance is important and the instruction also gives the important distance of the closing start. Is there no fuel in the float? Is it not creased / repaired with tin? (less buoyant)

The best part is that the float is whole, not soldered, soaked all night and did not immerse, nothing is splashing in it. The ignition is set as standard, as the factory says, because it's nanoplex, but since this is happening, now I thought of my camshaft that maybe someone was wrong on the shaft and one tooth is shifted. I was supposed to change the carburetor, but atmospheric conditions did not allow. And as for this neon lamp, I'll check it out there are currently many questions and so few answers and you have to do everything in turn

The timing can be changed. Such nonsense did not occur to me. You need a "master" for that.

Okay, I changed the carburetor, new gaskets and O-rings, ignition set as it was in the factory in the elegance, i.e. the arrow coincides with the line. I pre-adjusted the carburetor. The engine has regained its power, it has fine performance for a toddler, it's probably getting together very well. I wonder if the color of the candles or by chance the composition of the mixture is not too poor because they have a bright color. Below I will put pictures. I don't know how much it smokes because I haven't driven it much, but I still shoe it on a warm engine, so the fuel consumption will definitely increase, but there is no trying for what was before

Very nice, in my opinion, the correct look of the candles.

Okay, for now it is made for the old type and I do not know if it pays to do it as it was originally, I mean that there is no carburettor stand with a nozzle, I have a stand, a vacuum sensor also, even works and now I wonder if combine with this, because as if the engine reaches above 1000 rpm, the vacuum valve closes contacts and as if the map in the nanoplex changes and accelerates ignition. To combine with it? Will that not bring much?

In my opinion this is the ignition acceleration system and it should be. I would check out of curiosity how the engine work changes when you do a vacuum there, e.g. with your mouth. Unfortunately, I have no experience in the new type, I have not even seen this ignition module. In such a small and weak engine, every watt counts, so if you are already playing toddler, you have to continue pulling.

Hello
If the vacuum sensor was not necessary, it would not be mounted. The ignition angle certainly changes, which can be checked with a strobe lamp. I had (my motoring beginnings began with a toddler) and I converted my toddler into electronic ignition with Eleganta, and it worked very well only the cable supplying the sensor to the pulley (the shielded one) was damaged because it broke and there was a break.
Greetings.

In the old type, the ignition change was responsible for the centrifugal regulator in the ignition apparatus, If you have full electronics, then you do not have a camera, so it is quite important that the vacuum sensor was mounted. It is not even about power itself, more about temperature, this engine has, due to its design, inefficient cooling. For the summer it is worth checking whether the oil pan is cooled and the channels are unobstructed, whether a small cover is fitted, between the engine plates and the bowl, also look at the thermostat, or the flap, after warming up, opens completely.