Volvo FH12 2004: Heating Issues - Max Heat or None, Heater Valve & Temp Sensor Replaced

Hello,
As in the subject, the knob is set to max, it heats up to the stop, if I turn the knob a little to the left, it does not heat at all.
The computer does not show any errors.
Heater valve replaced with a new one - it can be heard.
The white temperature sensor above the heater has been replaced.

What could it be?

Have you checked the dial? Is the fan speed working properly?

The air temperature sensor in the cabin shows that it is warm in it and hence such an effect.

The outside temperature sensor also has an impact. What outside temperature can you see in the dashboard?

The dial is with the whole panel, because it is climatronic.
There are 2 wires to the valve, you can hear the opening clearly when I set the knob to max, so I think the beam is good for it.
The outside temperature sensor indicates correctly.

Andrzej20001 Do you mean the air temperature sensor in the cabin is this near the ashtray?

This is a Klima windmill. Don't you think about the blower speed? Please answer the questions.

The blower works properly at all speeds.

@mariusz_e Yes, the sensor inside the cabin as shown to the controller, e.g. + 30 degrees Celsius, why should it heat? Only max. on forced.

andrzej20001 - you were right, I changed from the second car and it's good. New available only on the website - PLN 590 net

Put a normal thermistor, just measure that.

Sooner it is covered in mud, because it cannot be wet. Damaged / unplugged generates an error. As the substitute works, it is 99% flooded with coffee (right above it is a paw on a cup after all) and only blow it out. This one percent is moisture elsewhere (maybe a computer).

With these symptoms I would also check if this middle rod has broken off. Today the guest told me to tire the temperature knob, because it had to be pressed down so that the potentiometer would be pulled off. Cause chipped limit switch in knob and wrist broke. Earlier, someone carved something on a super glu and it was difficult.



Added after 1 [minutes]:

These white bellows are joints and they are going to make the potentiometer last.
The knobs are at an angle.

The windmill is supposed to pull air from the cabin which would not be fooled ...
The dry sensor is to show 15k?.

I don't know what happened to my sensor. It shows 14-15 k? but when connected, the fan will make a few turns in stops and stop. There was no flooding after him, dust was also exhaled from time to time.

Then read the errors and check the ankle tension. Check the hose and both hoses for warm. If so, it's supposed to give you a full house, because it sees that it's cold. You don't feel base or what.

Welcome back. I return to this sensor in a second car. The panels have been replaced and the sensor errors have changed places. This layout will be the fault of the control panel, but I don't know exactly what yet. I wonder if the subtle deviations of the sensor resistance are so important, because I don't understand why the previous speaker's driver was stupid on the old one, which had good parameters for the meter ??? As if who knew, I would rather be curious, because there is something to it. PS what path do the drivers say about the driver being a defect?

Edition Oct 2, 2017
Today I did some measurements and checked this motive.

The guest brought a panel not from this year (2 years difference) and there was a sensor error because of it, but it wasn't.
It did not bother me, and even better, because the control switches to emergency mode.
MID 146 PID 170 FMI 3

Fault symptoms:
No fault codes in the air conditioning unit.
For some time from the moment of starting the air vents heat and so say from 10 minutes.
Adjusting the flap setting sometimes works and sometimes it doesn't work at all.

The measurement of the output controlling the water valve showed instability of temperature control and it looks like this:

From the moment the ignition was switched on, it was necessary to increase the heating temperature every 1 minute with the temperature switch 1 ° C up, because some internal fault in the controller causes the stop valve to be turned on. The switch has some 10 degrees of adjustment. As a result, the deviation reaches a critical value somewhere 10 minutes after switching on the ignition. The range of the adjustment switch ends, the shut-off valve is switched on permanently and it is impossible to turn on the heating (i.e. turn off the valve) due to this internal malfunction of the controller.

At the moment, the customer has purchased a second panel with the same numbers.

Apparently, these drivers have so and there are a lot of these crashes.
Maybe I'll get what is.