how to connect the thermostat to the ariston clas evo gas oven

How to connect the thermostat to the ariston clas evo gas oven? I am before buying a thermostat and I do not know if I will be able to do it myself or maybe a service technician is needed. thank you in advance for your reply

TA1 bridge in a boiler without any problems, any regulator depending on the needs and for whom.

I am asking for more accurate answer, the first cable to ta1 and the second one?

WELCOME ONCE AGAIN, VERY PLEASE ANSWER HOW TO CONNECT THERMOSTAT TO ARISTON CLAS EVO STOVE. I SEND A PICTURE AS I CONNECTED, PLEASE REPLY IF THIS IS GOOD. THANK YOU IN ADVANCE

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Connecting the correct colors, no matter, it's important that it works. Of course, the TA1 connector is intended for connecting on-off controllers.

Does such a thermostat control the switching off and on of the furnace or does the temperature control of the medium returning to the furnace still be active and despite the thermostat on / off the furnace can turn off by itself before it heats the room? In fact, by setting 25'C on CH supply at an outdoor temperature of 0'C and such an on / off thermostat, the stove will run constantly, because it will not be able to heat the room to 21'C or will it turn off because the return temperature reaches the assumed deltaT? I have an ariston class one 2f 24kW oven and I turn it on / off too often. without a controller at plus temperatures. I wonder if such a thermostat on / off is tamed, or do I need to buy a modulated aristona ....

Edit. I think I have just small heaters and a small heat consumption, hence the furnace at lower CO settings likes to come every 7 minutes (without a room thermostat). The only option to increase the temperature of the medium, e.g. at 45-50'C and turn on the pump permanently (the supply and CH return hysteresis, unfortunately, is automatic), which will lengthen the cooling of the room by 1'C (already with a thermostat) can last for over an hour and it will start to make sense.

Currently, everything is spoiled by the floor draining cold water, which goes to the furnace. This one is freaking out and constantly warming up every few minutes ...

UPDATE
The simplest on / off room thermostat has adjoined the furnace and now turns on several times a day.

Welcome
At the moment I have the Ariston boiler controller connected to the TA1 connector (as in the picture)
I would like to connect the Ariston Cube Net controller to the BUS connector, after connecting I can easily disconnect the wires from TA1 and leave it empty or do I have to connect a bridge in this place?

Standard I think there is a bridge there. Then it is constantly ready to heat and heats based on the return water temperature. As the on/off thermostat disconnects, it waits for the jumper
.

It does not matter whether there will be a jumper in ta1 or not. The jumper is required when you do not have a room thermostat.

Thank you for your help

Good morning. I have a question about connecting the Auraton 2005 tx plus controller to the Ariston Clas it is compact (as it was when purchased). According to what I read on the forum, I switched the controller to the TA1 input (TA2 remained empty), but even though the temperature dropped and the controller theoretically turned on the stove - nothing happened. I don't know what the problem is - please help.
Regards

Good morning. I understand that you have the Auraton controller now connected to TA1 in the boiler and the TA2 connector is empty? Please install a jumper in the TA2 connector and leave the thermostat connected as it is to TA1 and let me know the results. 🙂

Hello. Thanks for the info, but I have a question: if the TA2 animal is used, won't the controller burn out? Previously, it was the other way around - TA1 was connected and the controller was connected to TA2 - and the furnace kept the set temperature, even though the controller theoretically turned the furnace off. Does changing the controller connection "the other way round" - i.e. to TA1 and shorting TA2 - change anything?

Don't worry, nothing will happen to the furnace or controller. The TA1/TA2 connectors are shorted by default, and heating takes place based on the NTC probes in the boiler. If we want to connect an on/off thermostat to the boiler, we connect it to the TA1 connector, and the TA2 connector must remain shorted. Then the boiler will heat when the thermostat closes the TA1 connector contacts. When the set temperature is reached, the thermostat will open the TA1 contacts and the boiler will stop heating.

Added after 1 [minute]:

Previously, this happened as you wrote, because we control the Ariston boiler by default via the TA1 connector. When it was connected to TA2, the boiler did not respond to its signals.

Welcome back. Unfortunately, after short-circuiting TA2, the situation is similar - i.e. the stove turns on even though it is turned off on the controller. A friend of mine checked how he has it connected on his stove (similar) and has a controller (newer) connected only to TA1 and everything works (TA2 disconnected). It seems to me that maybe the controller is broken... because everything is OK with the stove - after a short circuit, TA1 works and maintains the temperature.
I can't think of anything else... but thank you very much for the advice anyway! Regards

And are the contacts of the ta1 connector connected to the NO and COM connectors in the controller?

Added after 4 [minutes]:

The control principle is very simple. After closing the TA1 contacts, the stove heats up. Everything else is a matter of driver configuration or possible incorrect operation. Perhaps it is a matter of setting the heating program on the thermostat.

Hello again - total success!
Thanks a lot - you were absolutely right! When replacing the furnace, the cable in the controller "jumped" out of the socket (and this socket is behind a cap...). Once again, the rule "the device is connected - it should work" has proven true in this case.
Thank you again for your help - now everything is working as it should, and it's thanks to you!
Kind regards

I'm glad I could help. Regards.

Hi there.
I have a question for this boiler. Can I connect under TA1 an ON/OFF controller in one room and under TA2 an ON/OFF controller in another room? I want the furnace to run until neither controller reaches the set temperature. I want the cooker to extinguish itself only when both regulators are at rest.
I have two of the coldest rooms where the temperature fluctuates a lot. The rooms are ok and the bathroom is cold. I would like the signal to be transmitted from this bathroom. I also have another room also cooling down quickly. Currently, the centrally mounted controller does not meet my expectations.
I was thinking of plugging the two controllers in parallel into one TA1 connector but I don't know if I'll burn out the board despite the low voltages when they both start "transmitting" the signal.
Thanks in advance

You can connect two voltage-free controllers (i.e. most of those found on the market) in parallel to one connector on the boiler.

The question is whether this makes sense. Isn't it better to regulate by restricting the flow in the rooms that heat up fastest so as to slow down their heating? Move the thermostat to the coolest room?

>>21237225 .
I have already tried it this way. With valves on the radiators. Unfortunately, this way does not work for me.
I'm also considering buying a wireless regulator, but I won't really want to fly around with it every now and then. Hence the idea of two in different locations.

If the TA1 contacts on the furnace are short-circuited by any of the controls, the boiler will have a CO heating request.

It doesn't have to be the coolest room at all, but that's a topic for another discussion....

A colleague asked "can you"? Well you can. Does it make sense? It doesn't, but it is the easiest way to improve a poorly performing central heating system.

Added after 5 [minutes]: .

kubowy1 wrote:

I have already tried it this way. With valves on the radiators. Unfortunately but this way does not work for me.

.
Because it cannot work. The solution to your problem is not the radiator control, but the way the boiler works. The boiler must not switch off but must run non-stop. It would be a good idea to use a pwm room thermostat rather than a normal thermostat (based on hysteresis) if the boiler has too high a minimum output in relation to the demand of the apartment/house.

edalpo wrote:

Hello again - total success!
Thanks a lot - you were absolutely right! When replacing the furnace, the cable in the controller "jumped" out of the socket (and this socket is behind a cap...). Once again, the rule "the device is connected - it should work" has proven true in this case.
Thank you again for your help - now everything is working as it should, and it's thanks to you!
Kind regards

Hello everybody.

I have the same problem with my gas oven Ariston Genus one 24. Now I have connected non-wifi Ariston Cube RT thermostat.

I bought some wifi-enabled thermostat, for weekly configuration, on/off thermostat.

I had today at home an expert to connect the thermostat, but he was not successful.

If I understand correctly, the thermostat needs to be plugged into the TA1 plug and the terminal (the wire that connects the two screws) needs to be plugged into TA2? Like in the picture in post #4, only to connect the short wire in the blue connector?

Now is like this in my picture.



Please help. Thank you.