Induction Electrolux EHH46540FK - the panel switches off and switches on again

Hello dear forum users!
Recently, there was a problem with the operation of the Elektrolux EHH46540FK induction hob, and 3 years worked sensational, however, after heating the pot on either field, the plate switches off and on again (and so several times). Yes, the protection against overheating probably begins to work, but before that the plate was much more exposed to temperature and worked properly. After some time, the disc can be turned on and used again for restarations. All sensors work.
Seeking solutions, I read about capacitor problems. Can Dear Forumists indicate which elements I need to start exchanging? None of it would look swollen. What good producers should new elements be? I unscrewed the plate and put a photo of "guts". Left side.

And does not a colleague have a surge protector in the board? It works in such a way that when there are fluctuations in the power supply or if there is no power available, the board switches to safe mode and just resets when heating. All you need to do is disconnect it for about 40 minutes completely from the power supply and reconnect. Only when it does not work will I bury electronics.

roxio wrote:

Is there a colleague not in the surge protector board? It works in such a way that when there are fluctuations in the power supply or if there is no power available, the board switches to safe mode and just resets when heating.

Hello Colleague and thank you for your quick response!
I do not know what great fluctuations in the power supply can lead to anomalies of work, and there was no voltage drop (and for a very long time). All phases at this time should be and maybe unreliable, but the phase controls in the array during the restarations were ok.
greetings
Pit

Fluctuations do not have to be significant, it's quite delicate equipment, unfortunately, you have to check from the beginning;
upper left field (farthest from the control panel) must be tested (on a cold plate) at 1 heating level, cool it and then at the maximum whether there is a difference in time to reset - if, for example, on the lips. power on 1 box heats up longer without resetting, it means that the above mentioned blockade works (the stove resets when you want to turn on the cooling of the electronics) then disconnecting from the power supply can help.
If the time to reset is the same on any setting, then we will dig in the electronics.

roxio wrote:

If the time to reset is the same on any setting, then we will dig in the electronics.

Thanks!
We will test.
greetings
Pit
edit:
Hi again, left upper field with a pot - set power for 1 - time for automatic shutdown about 12 minutes after "rest" and reboot: left upper field with a pot - set power for max - time for automatic shutdown about 4 minutes.

After switching off, the board tries to re-enable itself and after a few seconds it switches off and this unstable operation takes place alternately. The control works all the time. You can turn the board on or off when it works (you can change the power, etc.)
greetings
Pit

For a new disc, to look at the capacitors.
It looks like the board is overheating - check the fan if it works while the board is in operation.

michalprezes1 wrote:

For a new disc, to look at the capacitors.
It looks like the board is overheating - check the fan if it works while the board is in operation.

Hello,
thanks for your interest in the topic.
After observing the disc as Roxio suggested - the lower left field (the largest) withstands about 15-20 minutes of strong heating and just the right bottom just under the control. However, as soon as I turn on the upper boxes (even on "1") after 2 minutes the board goes into the off and on state. After switching on the disc I hear the start of the fans (but I do not know if both of them work). The control always works (if the motherboard has not turned off at this time and I can also turn it on and then turn itself off).

greetings
Pit

Hi pitu-pitu. Did you deal with the problem? I ask because he has the same at home

As already mentioned - for a young plate for dried capacitors, but ... try to replace the electrolytic capacitor marked with a red circle:

Check and if necessary replace the VIPer22 or VIPer17 converters, I do not know what they are going on in this model because I can not see. I have had similar cases several times and it turned out that they are ailing

Hello,
did they deal with the problem of restarting the album? I have AEG HK63420PXB and after 5 years of use the above problem appeared. The disc turns on and off. Sometimes it works for a day without a problem and then the problem returns. I unscrewed the disc and looked at the electronics and you can not see anything disturbing, there are no swollen capacitors.

Instead of spinning electronics and messing up on the forum about nothing, start the fun of monitoring the voltage in the electricity grid. You need an accurate voltage meter. Recently, power suppliers have been crazy about upgrades of power lines. With too high voltage and hence and power - such flowers can be happening.

Hey,

I have exactly the same problem, the motherboard tries to reset itself, but it looks like it would not have enough voltage and randomly blink parts of the display ... After several minutes, finally I manage to do this reset and can be reheated.

The only problem is that the failure occurs super randomly, for a month can walk without problems, and sometimes turns off every day, over the years the frequency increases, earlier it was once every six months, now there is no week to not turn off.

After unfolding the oven, disconnecting the control panel and reconnecting it is ready to work immediately.

He does not believe in voltage spikes, because:
and. Over 500 apartments have electric hobs in my housing estate, and most of them are inductions.
b. The first problems appeared after 3 years of use.
c. After a failure, it falls into some unstable state and lasts for several minutes.

The fans are working, the problem is independent of the field or fields used, the time is random, I have no idea where to start checking, and you can have any ideas?

PS.
I even found a video where exactly it hangs the same way:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PGs9ZA8vLPo

Remove and measure the capacitors. In this case, look through and replace the VIPer22 inverters if necessary, because they often fall and the symptoms are similar

My album has VIPer17L, so it was raining?

The capacitors in perfect condition, at least visually, as I find a moment of time, it will desolder a few random and I will measure.
I will also replace VIPer, because I do not have such a jam to check the system for PLN 5 ... especially since I do not know what is causing the defective work ...

In general, now I can play and repair, because I just bought a new model, which will be quiet for two years

Thanks for the suggestions, I will certainly apply to them, I was a little afraid that the driver dies, but in the end managed to catch the moment of failure and can actually be a bitch.

I have indicated a capacitor whose loss of capacitance causes an unstable operation of the power converter. There is nothing to watch, to measure - exchange is a moment of work, it will not help - then look further.

Hello.
I have the same problem with the board when I turn on the fan and after 3 sec goes out and I can not turn it on anymore. I turned off the power for 5 hours and the same. At the moment, the touch does not react anymore. I replaced as above the Viper 17 on both sides and transistors and nothing else. You do not hear a click like you would like to turn on contactors. Where else to look and I do not turn on the contactor and even now the touch does not react.

Welcome back,
in March I wrote about a similar problem with the AEG HK63420PXB. The disc works and turns off after a while. After turning it off, it tries to turn itself on again, you hear the start of the fan and after 2-3 seconds it turns off again and so on endlessly. The control works all the time. The disc can be turned on or off when it works, change power.
For advice on this thread, I replaced the VIPer17L system and the accompanying capacitor. It helped, the record worked but somewhere after about a month the problem returned. I took the board out of the building again and looked again. I cleaned, vacuumed all sockets, contacts and plugs, especially those in the module with capacitive buttons, here I also cleaned the button probes and the glass from the bottom. After these activities, the CD went unnoticed and works today without any problems.
It seems to me that the reason for the restart could also be the connection of the module with the buttons with the main module because these plugs something loosely sat on these contacts on the laminate and the board went crazy. Sometimes it helped knock on the CD and it surprised. It is sometimes known to put a pot, a shock arises. Between the times I suspected also a relay that is heard when switching the disc, because it was not heard sometimes. After all, after cleaning the contacts, the board works, let it last for as long as possible.

In my case, the symptoms are the same, i.e. after turning on, the controller turned off after a few seconds, and so every few seconds. You could hear the relay ticking and then the displays went out. A prosaic cause, i.e. cold solder, or actually burned on the PCB from the relay (the one from the power supply is so deformed) that supplies voltage to power converters. They soldered very sparingly, but I tampered with this solder and the rest in the high-current circuits and the board works.

Hello.
I confirm my friend's diagnosis.
Burnout soldering on the foot of the relay.
The matter is settled.
The post was very helpful.