SKODA OCTAVIA 1 1.9 TDI 1999 - Central locking does not respond to the remote co

Hello, I have a Skoda Octavia 1.9 TDI year 1999 and a problem. Octavia has a detailed alarm and a central one with a remote control. All connections, i.e. the plugs of the lock, the window lifter module, the pedal block in the post are clean, the wires in the bundles are not broken. Despite this, the remote control does not turn on / off the central lock, but the alarm does. After a while, I discovered that the window lift controller in the left rear door is flooded with water and it smells of burning, i.e. kaput. The computer shows error 1333 which is a hit driver for this door.
My question is: Does a hit rear left door controller affect the control panel not switching on from the remote control and if I replace the driver, the problem disappears?

Probably it will not disappear because you have no control, so your alarm does not send a signal to the central. Write if the central locking, i.e. the controller and actuators were originally and there was an alarm with a remote control?

The drivers and actuators are original and the alarm with a remote control was added. The alarm is sending a signal to the central one because there is a non-original wire connected to the harness in the left front door led from the alarm control unit.

It may be the fault of the controller in the rear door but (you did not write it) if the key control works, it must be from the remote control.
If it works with the key and the remote control is not, the rear controller has nothing to do with it and you have no signal from the remote control controller.

For the sake of clarification. Actually, I did not write that "it may be the driver's fault in the rear door" but I wrote that it is flooded and it is probably the same? "Nevertheless, the remote control does not turn on / off the central lock, but the alarm does" I also wrote. I just did not write that the key does not work, it is not the same. "Mea culpa, sory"
Now I am going to check the signal from the alarm control unit connected to this beam about which I also wrote. My alarm panel has no name. It wasn't installed during my term of office. I will mention that there is not much electronics in it, it is built mainly on relays, if I remember correctly six. I looked at several wiring diagrams and came to the conclusion that this is where I should check now. I know that the signal can be 0.4s long. If I'm wrong please correct me. I wonder how to possibly simulate the signal, is it enough to impulse from the 12V battery to find out that the central locking is working and the control system in the alarm unit responsible for the signal to the central locking is broken?

Added after 2 [hours] 20 [minutes]:

The button combined with the impulse. I will buy a driver and an actuator, I will install it and then see it.

Do not panic
My point is that you did not write whether the CZ key works and this is important information. Such information cannot be deduced from the next post.
I'm not writing here to ride on you, just to help you. If I offended you, I apologize, but that was not the purpose of my speech.
Give this information.
The lock is controlled by the mass, not a plus.
Provide a photo of the switchboard, its interior and a photo of the remote control. There are people here who can name the switchboard on this basis.

It took me a while, sorry.
I am sending a photo of the alarm as I took three years ago and I had it in my computer (I am on a trip to the training), and the photo of the pilot is ok, just like mine.

Since the alarm from the remote control works for you and the central one does not work from the remote control or the key, do not look for any signals, but find why the central one does not work with the key. Check the power for comfort. First, make it work with the central key, then it will probably work with the remote control.

I would like to add that there is nothing on the housing except the words: auto alarm. I am very interested in developing this topic and thank you for helping me despite my attitude.

Added after 2 [minutes]:

Ok, I'll do as you write, but I have to come home in three days.

Central locking works with a key and a remote control. Left rear window lift module replaced and working.
Thanks to my colleague I got the solution to the problem and I thank him very much for that.
At the beginning I checked all the fuses and they were ok. However, at the end of the work, fuse 38 turned out to be blown but I think it happened during repairs. Using the vag-com program, I checked the progress and deleted 46 central comfort errors. In the meantime, I bought and replaced the entire window lifting mechanism TL, because the motor and electronic module were burnt from flooding with water. I looked at the harnesses in the aisles of all the doors and repaired the broken wires. I looked into the door connector behind the steering post and it was ok. No damage or rotting. I checked the comfort module. I undressed and corrected some February. I unscrewed all the locks, undressed, checked the micro-switches, corrected February at the sockets (they were cracked from vibrations, moving the plug in the socket), checked the motors, lubricated the mechanisms thoroughly, cleaned the contacts in the sockets and plugs. Particular attention should be paid to the tailgate mechanism. I used the vaga all the time and corrected mistakes in the real world, as above. After the whole fight, which lasted two weeks with breaks, I checked the fuses again and the zong 38. Everything started working so I put the car together and decided to share my experiences. greetings