Skoda Octavia II 2010 Model: Replacing and Encoding New Keyfobs for Central Lock/Alarm

Hello
I am assuming a new topic because after reviewing dozens on various forums I can't find the right one for me.
Well, I recently have a Skoda Octavie II from 2010. 1.9 TDI, in one of the basic equipment (electric windows front, manual climate control, central locking ... and basically enough).
The car got two sets of keys, ordinary, simple, without buttons (two different, you can see one made) and two key rings for the central lock / alarm (also both different).
And now yes ...
One of the key rings does not work (it had a sunk battery, I got one, I changed the batteries, the diode blinks, but nothing happens)
The second one works, but it is in a deplorable state and it will fall apart any day.

I would love to change both and encode new ones ... and here I am asking you for help.
1) When I close the car with the remote control operating, the car closes + the alarm is armed
2) When he wants to open the car mechanically, with a key in the door, the whole car opens, but begins to howl the alarm, i.e. opening the key does not turn off the alarm.
3) When I close the car with the key, the alarm is not armed so when I open the key, it does not howl.

Is this normal operation of the entire central locking and alarm? Namely, that the remote control activates both the alarm and the central locking, and the key only the central locking?
Unfortunately, once it happened that the wife closed the car with the remote control and went to work, and I later opened the car with the second key and had an unpleasant surprise, howling over 2 hours.; /

Someone told me that I have an unoriginal remote control unit, so I started looking for it to get to know the brand and look for the key coding procedure.
Unfortunately, at the left sill it is not there, neither under the steering wheel, on the left closer to the driver's door (where the fuses are).
I was hoping that by clicking on the remote control I would listen to the ticking relay (because usually there is a tick when the lock or switchboard wants to work) but here's another problem - when pressing the buttons open or close on the pendant you can hear delicate high-pitched beeps from the center of the steering column, somewhere in the heart where the shifters fall. And only that. No relays can be heard anywhere. Is it possible that there is a switchboard in the column? Probably not?

Do you have any idea how to determine if I really have an unoriginal switchboard? Or where can she be? I probably won't go on coding without it?

Upload pics of pilots and select which one is currently working.
As for me, you have an alarm mounted that controls the factory central lock.
As for the addition of new remote controls, I suspect that it will be cheaper and more reliable to set up a new alarm or if you do not need it, the new central locking controller alone.

This silver, damaged works. Button from the top 1-close, 2-open, 3-close, 4-open

Both look rather like gate remote controls, so the alarm and central locking switch is unlikely to be factory-made (look for a cube with cables the size of a cigarette packet).

The brown one has the impression that it is from some gates or roller blinds
The remote control driver was connected some time ago in my second car, WV polo, successfully, but I would prefer to have an alarm too.

Ok, you probably have an alarm with CAN communication.
The switchboard will most likely be the size of two matchboxes.
I propose to replace it with a new set.

Added after 1 [minutes]:

This is an alarm that was very often installed by the Authorized Service Center, it was often thrown out of the car due to a sudden loss of range or total failure.

Ok, so I will start searching again tomorrow. Ps. On the left, next to the knob from the lights, a small board led out from under the board with a microswitch and a blue LED on it (indicates an armed alarm). My guess is that with this button I can tap some code to disarm the alarm in an emergency?
Could this high-pitched sound come from the loudspeaker when pressing the remote control? I have the choice to follow this sound or after that cable

Fly on these wires from the diode and the button, they go 100% to your alarm control panel.
The switch can be from the function of some emergency authorization or some kind of anti-hijacking protection.

Added after 1 [minutes]:

The switchboard if it is what I think is really the size of two matchboxes.

I found Deep deep behind a thousand cables and a thousand fuses

Added after 21 [minutes]:

Does anyone have instructions for this system? First of all, it means the following steps to program the remote control. Apparently you can, max 4 pieces, using the sequence of pressing the microswitch and turning the key in the ignition.

And you have the system that always gets damaged, do you have the original remote control?
My advice, throw it out and put something new with a guarantee.

The thing is, it works, I have no objections.
I mean only the pilot issue. However, if there is a problem with this, of course, he will list everything.
The only question is, what do you recommend and can the new switchboard be connected to exactly the same place? Will all wiring need to be checked / replaced again?

Remember that you only program the original remote control, it goes to set up another can alarm without major modifications.

Line?

Pilot hehe

Hello.
Problem solved. I was able to re-code the other pilot (brown).
I got the coding procedure (the whole instruction) directly from the producer of this alarm, everything went smoothly.
For PLN 65 I can buy a new remote control for this switchboard.
I enclose the procedure of adding a remote control to the central unit for children.

Topic is closed.