Needed Glue for Thin Polystyrene & Rubber Illusionist Instrument - Model Glue Recommendations

Hello,
I am an illusionist, I make a small instrument made of polystyrene and rubber. The elements are very thin and complicated. I need a glue that glues the parts well and firmly. It is important that it does not dry too fast so that I have time to spread it over the entire surface of the element, and then connect it thoroughly. Maybe some model glue? Please help

Perhaps the cork adhesive - "cola -cork fc". It is similar to butaprene gum for rubber and leather. It can be glued with a cork stopper, but also, for example, plastic slats for walls or corks. For example, it is used with a brush, it waits until it evaporates a bit, if it does not take on the fingers, it presses tightly and already.

The polystyrene which I will use is not in the form of styrofoam: p I forgot to write - HIPS. Now the task certainly looks realistic. What about such glue? Will he deal with rubber?
http://allegro.pl/super-klej-z-pedzelkiem-do-polistyrenu-i6134943000.html

I have a bad feeling about this. I do not believe in magic Seriously, only 2 solutions come to me either by gel cyanoacrylate in the gel + activator or some UV-curing adhesive such as UV-locus glue loca used for gluing contacts in phones.

I recommend cyanoacrylate adhesive in TESA 57041 gel with activator
or
cyanoacrylate adhesive, rare Bond. I was gluing HIPS.
Apply the adhesive on one surface and press immediately. The thinner the layer, the faster the binding. Surfaces must be dry and clean.
Unfortunately, it binds quickly.
And http://www.loctite.pl/kleje-utwardzane-wiatem-6479.htm

odalladoalla wrote:

Every glue that contains benzene and acetone falls off.

There is no benzene in any glue on the market!

odalladoalla wrote:

Both of them grind polystyrene in the form of "polystyrene", destroying the surface and "evaporating".

Do you see the difference between polystyrene and styrofoam?

odalladoalla wrote:

It is difficult to stick rigid and brittle (polystyrene), with elastic and soft (rubber).

Banally easily.

E8600 wrote:

Gel Cyanoacrylate adhesive + activator

Why do you need an activator? For rubber and PS? It sticks perfectly.

apiotlis wrote:

so that I have time to spread it over the entire surface of the element, and then connect it thoroughly

There is no such glue. In any case, once you connect this chapel. You can only slightly improve.

A purely technical matter. A rigid or flexible connection? The joint is to be visible?
For rigid joints:
Cyanoacrylate. You clean both surfaces, cover one of them with a thin layer of glue (as thin as possible) and squeeze tightly.
An epoxy resin. The best two-component. You mix resin with hardener. You cover one surface (cleaned of course) and press the other. After 48 hours, you will not tear.
For flexible joints:
Butapren. You distribute on the rubber and wait for partial drying (it must stick to your finger). Then you press the second element. After 24 hours it is stuck together.

apiotlis wrote:

Hello,
I am an illusionist, I make a small instrument made of polystyrene and rubber. The elements are very thin and complicated. I need a glue that glues the parts well and firmly. It is important that it does not dry too fast so that I have time to spread it over the entire surface of the element, and then connect it thoroughly. Maybe some model glue? Please help

I use LOCTITE 406 to connect this type of material. The combination is extremely durable. I glued together the rubber orings and when I tried to burst it broke off in another place, and the joint resisted. Rubber for "plastic" also does not make a problem.

odalladoalla wrote:

I notice the differences between the chemical composition and the physical FROM the implementation.

Cool, but who wrote here about polystyrene?

odalladoalla wrote:

Have you tested frost resistance, tensile strength, "tightness", 4 times a month certified rubber material samples?

I do not know, do you want my diploma to see?

odalladoalla wrote:

Practices would fail.

And this is what someone who says about polystyrene, says about polystyrene, says ... They taught me that every polymerist has to get rid of this association as soon as possible.
I undressed the ripper and put it back together again. The dumbbells are hanging on the cabinets, and the "tightness" or barrier properties I researched with many techniques. Both for rubber and thin film blends. Forgive me, but it can be a drain pipe and not a vulcanizer ...

odalladoalla wrote:

And keep the features of both materials used?

!? I apologize very much, but how do you want to preserve the properties of both glued materials in the joint? The weld and diffusion area of the adhesive have their properties, and the materials outside of this area.

odalladoalla wrote:

Good luck with 'Resin' adhesives
You made me laugh.

PMMA glued to O-Ring X-ray (you want the composition of the mixture - I did it myself) with a two-component resin. He keeps two years as of now. PVC glued to stainless steel. For 3 years without problems. It all depends on what the author wants to get

mariuszp19 wrote:

I use LOCTITE 406 to connect this type of material. The combination is extremely durable. I glued together the rubber orings and when I tried to burst it broke off in another place, and the joint resisted. Rubber for "plastic" also does not make a problem.

The best cyanoakyl I know.

mariuszp19 wrote:

I use LOCTITE 406 to combine these types of materials.

"SG 15 WIKO adhesive = LOCTITE 406 "

You confirm?

Adamcyn wrote:

mariuszp19 wrote:

I use LOCTITE 406 to combine these types of materials.

"SG 15 WIKO adhesive = LOCTITE 406 "

You confirm?

I do not know how this SG 15, but at one time we tried to break the adhesive joints and Super Glue compared to LOCTITE 406 fell out thin. I emphasize, I do not remember if it was this SG 15. You would have to read the characteristics sheets of both adhesives and compare them.