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MAKTEK SKY300W Compressor with PEX System in Garage: Is 1/2 inch Installation Sufficient?

Majsterkowicz5 7719 24
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Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
  • #1 16546094
    Majsterkowicz5
    Level 8  
    Hello
    I want to build a pneumatic installation in a garage based on a PEX system.
    The compressor I have is MAKTEK SKY300W (new, more powerful model). Initially I was thinking about 1/2 inch installation and here's the question. Is 1/2 enough? The compressor actually blows over 800 liters / min and I do not know if this installation could handle it. Initially, the assumption is 1/2 inch for economic reasons. It should be taken into account that the couplings can be 8mm inside.
    I am asking for advice from smarter heads, maybe there is someone who could calculate what and how?
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    #2 16547208
    andnat
    Level 11  
    I recommend the installation of pipes (gray, rigid) for cold water.
    Cheap and good. I propose the main pipe 25, the exits 20. Lead the exits up (swan neck). Buy yourself a welder for PLN 70 and it will be great.
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    #3 16547381
    patryk44gks
    Level 15  
    The cross-section of the wires depends mainly on the length of the installation. For example, I have a compressor right behind the garage wall and I have about 3 meters of installation, and I have 1/2 installation and a capacity of 550l / min.
    The compressed air supplied by this installation also depends on what it is to be used for.
  • Helpful post
    #4 16547416
    Plumpi
    Heating systems specialist
    As one of my colleagues wrote, it is best to make the installation of PP welded pipes, or even better of PE pipes as for water with screwed couplings.
    During unskilful PP welding, constrictions are formed, which are devoid of PE screw fittings.
    I also advise against making gooseneck installations as suggested by one of my colleagues, because water and oil condense in the pipes, which make it difficult to evacuate towards the compressor, because the air flow will always push them towards the exit.
    As a result, water and oil will collect in the main pipe.
    It is much better to install the installation high with a slight slope towards the outlets, and where clean air is required, use dehydrators and oil separators.
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    #5 16553038
    andnat
    Level 11  
    I also advise against making gooseneck installations as suggested by one of my colleagues, because water and oil condense in the pipes, which make it difficult to evacuate towards the compressor, because the air flow will always push them towards the exit.
    As a result, water and oil will collect in the main pipe.
    It is much better to make the installation high with a slight slope towards the outlets, and where clean air is required, use dehydrators and oil separators. [/ Quote]

    For this also use condensate drains :spoko:
  • #6 16556689
    Majsterkowicz5
    Level 8  
    Hello
    Sorry to be absent (forgot to look). So, in your opinion, it would be better to install PE pipes than PEX?
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    #7 16557102
    andnat
    Level 11  
    I have done this installation myself and it is ok. Your decision about the system, twisted fittings costs a bit, but the pp welding machine too. It also depends on the size of the planned installation.
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    #8 16557952
    wnoto
    Level 34  
    The welding machine can be borrowed in supermarkets. When it was probably PLN 20-25 per night.
  • #9 16583503
    Majsterkowicz5
    Level 8  
    The installation will be about 12m long, I care more about pex only as I wrote above, or 1/2 is enough?
  • Helpful post
    #10 16583871
    wada

    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    if it is to be used with pneumatic tools then a 1/2 "pex is enough.
    In my company, three people calmly work on polishing machines, the installation is 18m.
    At the beginning, it is worth giving a filter with an oil separator behind the compressor, there will always be less water in the installation, despite the screw compressor with a drainage system, you have to drain the water from the filter from time to time. behind the filter, you can give exits to tools that do not need oil - blow-off guns, guns for varnishing, silicone application, etc ... and then an oiler for all polishers, staplers, air wrenches, etc ...
  • Helpful post
    #11 16591611
    andrzej lukaszewicz
    Level 41  
    The larger the diameter, the greater the accumulation possibilities of such an installation at sudden loads, e.g. large pneumatic wrenches.
    I recommend PP min 25 (16 in the middle) and preferably 32 (21 in the middle)
    A reasonable idea is a PE pipe, e.g. O 32, 25, 20 is cheap and fittings cost pennies.
    The disadvantage is that it is sold in coils, requiring partial fixation to maintain the aesthetics of the installation. Same with pex. In this respect, PP welded pipes perform best.
    Pex has the disadvantage that the fittings have a large narrowing in relation to the nominal diameter of the pipe.
  • #12 16594213
    Majsterkowicz5
    Level 8  
    The installation will look something like this:
    MAKTEK SKY300W Compressor with PEX System in Garage: Is 1/2 inch Installation Sufficient?

    When it comes to PP, there is no welding machine and I have nowhere to borrow and buy only for this one job, it also makes no sense. I was interested in the EP system. Does any of your colleagues know how much the bar can withstand such an installation?
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    #13 16594770
    andrzej lukaszewicz
    Level 41  
    10 or 12 bar depending on the wall thickness - blue pipes. There are PE-HD versions and some withstand 16 bar.
  • #14 16598029
    Majsterkowicz5
    Level 8  
    Do you know any shop where you can buy a pipe and fittings for the PE system at a good price? Somehow, I can't find anything interesting. I found a shop where they have an interesting range of PE, but the pipe supposedly withstands 4 bars :( Is it possible? pressure class PN4, that is, as if true.
  • Helpful post
    #15 16599314
    andrzej lukaszewicz
    Level 41  
    You can buy PE pipes and fittings at any plumbing store. The blue ones withstand 10 or 12 bar depending on the wall thickness. The condition of the temperature of the medium below 30 degrees C.
  • #16 16622239
    Majsterkowicz5
    Level 8  
    Pipes and fittings are here. Of course everyone helped and thank you very much. In order not to assume a new topic anymore, I will also ask about filters, reducers, etc. I want to buy all Adler fittings. I know that, for example, in RQS filter cartridges are replaced, and in Adlerach, the manufacturer does not write anything about replacement and cartridges. How is it with that? In the case of Adler, do you have to replace the whole thing or does it clean? Does anyone know?
  • #17 16622628
    patryk44gks
    Level 15  
    I have no idea about Adler filters. But I have a 40-micron filter and a 5-micron filter-reducer fake RQS and I will say that for this price there is probably nothing better, and as for the filters, they are very cheap and replacement is a pleasure
  • #18 16622769
    Majsterkowicz5
    Level 8  
    I mean, I mean that there are filters (not cartridges) in which the filter cartridge is not replaced (I think because there are no cartridges for them) and I wonder what later? Is it cleaned and that's it or the whole thing to be replaced. Here is an example: ADLER AD4005F. In RQS or even in their imitations, I know that the filter cartridge is replaceable, just like in CKD.

    Could colleague patryk44gks direct me where it would be possible to buy something like the aforementioned "RQS"?
  • #19 16622944
    patryk44gks
    Level 15  
    As for the Adler filter, I will not help because I have not had contact with it. And when it comes to RQS, I have 1/2 but I have fakes that work quite well, the same steam trap for 1/2 costs about PLN 75, of course, it's a fake. It depends on what you want to use, i.e. what devices you want to supply with this air. If for professional use, then the CKD block will be the best choice, but the filters are quite expensive or look for the original RQS where the filter costs a few zlotys
    The original rqs is orange (but be careful because, for example, on the allegro, fakes are also orange on the photo).
  • #20 18857193
    grewan
    Level 12  
    Plumpi wrote:
    As one of my colleagues wrote, it is best to make the installation of PP welded pipes, or even better of PE pipes as for water with screwed couplings.
    During unskillful PP welding, constrictions are formed, which are devoid of PE screwed couplings.
    I also advise against making gooseneck installations, as suggested by one of my colleagues, because water and oil condense in the pipes, which make it difficult to evacuate towards the compressor, because the air flow will always push them towards the exit.
    As a result, water and oil will collect in the main pipe.
    It is much better to make the installation high with a slight slope towards the outlets, and where clean air is required, use dehydrators and oil separators.


    I have an old installation made of PP pipes and I would like to change it because of the narrowing during welding. I plan to make PE 40 pipes with twisted fittings, how does such an installation work for you after years?

    I am also wondering whether I should not give steel, aluminum tanks on the compressor-tank section, because Pe does not know if it will work in this section, I also have a cyclone separator in between.
  • #21 18862204
    andrzej lukaszewicz
    Level 41  
    grewan wrote:
    I have an old installation made of PP pipes and I would like to change it because of the narrowing during welding

    Installation of PP pipes has no narrowing, the internal diameter of the pipes is practically maintained everywhere.
  • #22 18862311
    grewan
    Level 12  
    I have narrowings on the welds and now I am replacing it with pe because I care about the inner diameter of 32mm.
  • #23 18866013
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #24 18872187
    wnoto
    Level 34  
    grewan wrote:
    I have narrowings on the welds and now I am replacing it with pe because I care about the inner diameter of 32mm.

    And how do you know that your pipe diameter is too small?
  • #25 18903800
    grewan
    Level 12  
    wnoto wrote:
    grewan wrote:
    I have narrowings on the welds and now I am replacing it with pe because I care about the inner diameter of 32mm.

    And how do you know that your pipe diameter is too small?


    After the constrictions caused by my welding a few years ago, the guitar is still full. I use the diameter that the devices require.

Topic summary

The discussion revolves around the installation of a pneumatic system in a garage using a MAKTEK SKY300W compressor, specifically questioning whether a 1/2 inch PEX installation is adequate for the compressor's output of over 800 liters/min. Various participants suggest alternatives, emphasizing the importance of pipe diameter and material. Recommendations include using PP or PE pipes instead of PEX due to better performance and fewer constrictions. The necessity of proper installation techniques, such as avoiding gooseneck designs to prevent condensation issues, is highlighted. Additionally, the importance of incorporating filters and oil separators for maintaining air quality is discussed. The installation length is noted to be around 12 meters, with suggestions for pipe sizes ranging from 20mm to 32mm for optimal performance.
Summary generated by the language model.
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