DW10 / 2.0hdi / tdci - Ford Smax - Knocking in the engine - connecting rod pin

I got S-Max from 2009 with a bang on the engine. The previous owner claimed that this is a knock, so I assumed a replacement engine, but in my opinion it knocks more top / side.
For now, I checked the timing (belt and chain) and they are ok. I'm starting to suspect the piston pin or the connecting rod head, so it makes sense to save this engine.
I will try in the near future to check the clearance from the bottom of the engine and oil if there are particles, but I am thinking about the cause of damage if it is a head.
The car is about 160,000 km (certain) and has been serviced by an authorized service station. No money was spared. You can see that nothing was buried in the engine, the oil was changed, the fluid could not be seen as a doorway. And no interference or reasons can be seen.
Normally, I have seen such things in worn or overheated engines, but it does not seem that the engine meets these criteria.
Have you seen such damage arising from material defects and do you have any way to verify this?
Link to the video below. Unfortunately, I forgot to overdo it
https://youtu.be/Mwr7Vz2dfj8

He lit up like three and shot for a long time. Is this not an injector?

It turns me on "empty" until it builds up pressure and then burns straight into four cylinders.
He just turned once because he fired without a problem before.
There is also a clatter when shooting which I would normally consider as a double mass, but here is an automaton so it may indicate looseness (connecting rod?)

In fact, I listened to the headphones. On the starter, the sound is like a cracked shaft or a broken flywheel. Such a thump that you should feel loose when turning the shaft.

This is a machine so the wheel falls off. I tried to spin but the slack will come out as I remove the bowl and check the visual or wring out candles to eliminate compression effects.
According to me, there is no slack on the shaft. I blocked on the flywheel and felt no slack on the pulley.
During the week I will remove the bowl, I will know more, but if it is a connecting rod head, I prefer to know the reason not to make the engine that has more damage.

Flywheel Focus

Here is only a plate with teeth and I can see that it is properly screwed to the box converter, so it certainly does not knock.
After locking the flywheel, it feels no play on the shaft

Bent crank, piston to be replaced.

We worked the bent connecting rod in such a DW10 engine and in that there was uneven work (like 3 cylinders) for about 30 seconds in the cold and no clatter can be heard. The car worked normally after warming up. There the piston was lowered by more than 1mm.
Here I click and it's cold and warm, so it's like a crank head.
That's why the clatter makes me wonder.

After removing the crank bowl look straight. There are no swarf in the oil and no looseness on the shaft or connecting rod heads.
So I took off the fight cover and ... nothing. Fights set correctly, no damage or destruction. Ponies are also simple, there is nothing to attach to.
Today batteries in my endoscope just fell out, but with what I could see, I can't see that the bottom was damaged
I will still check it, but I am beginning to wonder that the owner rigorously poured Castrol. I don't know what he poured, but I think it wasn't just patting the push rods. And whether these pushers can be squeezed in a vice, because they look quite gently.
If it is not oil (I have never encountered anything like this) I am already short of ideas.

Connecting rods are certainly simple.
Connecting rods and connecting rods are also fine. There is no slack (I unscrewed the connecting rod cap), the shells on the three cylinders are in perfect condition.
However, I see that someone was already there and now the question.
On two connecting rods the factory marks are on one side of the connecting rod (on the foot and the cover from the radiator side), while on two the ones are inverted (on the foot is on the radiator side, and on the cover from the rear of the engine).
It turns out that someone has turned it over. Yes you can, and two locks are on the same side, and two are inverted.

Has anyone met this? To my knowledge, the locks are always on the same side, so I would be grateful if you could confirm that the locks should be on one side.

mkaminski100 wrote:

Has anyone met this? To my knowledge, the locks are always on the same side, so I would be grateful if you could confirm that the locks should be on one side.

I haven't met the engine with locks on different sides yet.

Exhaust camshaft, check the CR pump drive more precisely.

In these connecting rods there are two locks on the upper and lower bearings, but they can be set so that they are on one side or two. They have always taught me that the cup locks should be on the same side.
There is no damage in fights. Also folded correctly.
I did not notice the slack on the key driving the fuel pump or vacu but I will check it tomorrow to be sure.
This clicking sound is heard most of the timing side and engine front.

mkaminski100 wrote:

They have always taught me that the cup locks should be on the same side.

They are an engine that is the opposite

Yes, I know. That's why I'm asking for confirmation of how it is here.

Pathetic torment was right.
The reason for the knocking was a stratified flywheel.
After unscrewing the slack with your hand you can feel it.
Here is a video of how much it knocks. The outer sheets are quite loose. The new wheel is gone.
I'm just worried about the shaft seal under the wheel. The mounting ring in the box with a new seal (from Ford) was loose and there, as I remember, the lips are to be in opposite directions (inner brown towards the engine, outer to the box). I put it on the ring, but I have the impression that this outer lip does not adhere perfectly to the shaft and there is a minimum gap. The funny thing is that you don't spend it bent, it's just the way it is.
https://youtu.be/38Cn3O9Syl8