VW Bora - Ignition Loss at Low Speeds in 2.0 AQY First Cylinder - Possible Causes & Solutions

Hello.
I have a problem with the loss of ignition only at low speed, the computer shows that this is only the first cylinder, replaced coil and candles but unfortunately nothing has changed.
The problem occurs on gasoline and gas, of which gas very often and strongly. After adding a little gas at, say, 1100-1200 revolutions, the problem disappears, the engine then runs evenly. Recently, I was at one magician, he told me that it was oil that got through the rings. He measured the pressure in the cylinders and does not hold it at 4, although the car drives normally, accelerates as needed and the max speed also reaches ...
Someone may find some idea what else might be wrong?
Recently, another mechanist told me to check the engine comp, that maybe it fell? real it?

Regards
Tomek

Since you have replaced the entire ignition system and the problem persists, it is more likely to diagnose the first mechanic with a lack of pressure at least measured than the statement since the computer for replacement does not work.

Theoretically, yes, but the car is 2 years old and from the very beginning / buying oil took, and this action with falling out appeared 3 weeks ago.
And oddly enough, at 1100 turns the ignition stops falling out, is this normal?

I think this is normal. With increasing revolutions, the compression pressure increases, and thus the probability of ignition of the mixture increases. Either way, the engine dies.

OK, I understand, but ...
the pressure is weak on the 4th cylinder and the ignition according to the computer falls on 1 ....

According to computer for 1 and according to mechanic for 4. The question is now which according to computer is 1 and which according to mechanic. Maybe you were at a French specialist? (first from gearbox). It is not excluded that the engine controller is raining, but also problems with the mixture and the tightness of the intake manifold can not be excluded. I don't remember the engine, but isn't the servo hose connected to the suction pipe of the first cylinder?

No, the mechanic does a lot of German so he probably knows which cylinder
So it probably is, as it says, falls on the first and weak pressure on the fourth, and probably they are also not some big drops since the car has not lost? and I will check the snake today because I don't even know

I am conquering the topic because I have only partly solved the problem
I want to give my car to my wife so it would be good to solve it completely

After unplugging the flow meter, the car starts to drive normally, nothing falls out. I bought a new flow meter, bosch. When connected further the same, not equal work and ignition loss.
According to me, there is something wrong with the dose of air / gasoline, but what else could be wrong? Some other sensor that turns off after disconnecting the flow meter?
Once again I measured the compression on 1 cylinder 13.6 and on 4 -12.8.
I was at one engine magician that says it is stuck valves, right peasant or something invented?

Check the air intake tightness and the intake manifold for tightness.

-marshall- wrote:

Some other sensor that turns off after disconnecting the flow meter?

Have you tried to ride on gasoline with the gas bottle turned off?

przemek25l wrote:

Check the air intake tightness and the intake manifold for tightness.

I sprayed the poster myself but it did nothing, I also asked the mechanic but he probably did not even check because he immediately wanted to make valves ....
Is there a simple home way to check it out?

As for turning off the gas, yes, I did it and took out the fuse from the fuel pump. It didn't make any difference, it went further ...

Theoretically, I could ride on the detached flowmeter but then the car can go out at an unexpected moment, I do not want to give my woman such that she would not be surprised somewhere at the roundabout

You unscrew the candles, block the shaft and blow through a special tip on the piston - you listen for whether air is flowing from the muffler or throttle, then you know if it is a valve and which one.
The turning off of the bottle is that the gasoline map could have been dispersed so that you could ride on the gasoline itself to check it, unless your colleague wanted to do something else. You can also delete the settings learned from VAG.

grala1 wrote:

You unscrew the candles, block the shaft and blow through a special tip on the piston - you listen for whether air is flowing from the muffler or throttle, then you know if it is a valve and which one.
The turning off of the bottle is that the gasoline map could have been dispersed so that you could ride on the gasoline itself to check it, unless your colleague wanted to do something else. You can also delete the settings learned from VAG.

So I have to find someone who can check it for me, but I doubt it's valves
Because it would also go wrong on the detached flowmeter ...

As for the map, is it possible that it would run on gasoline and gas?
Well, if the computer / engine driver fell, it would start the car at all?

How much oil does it take and how much does the meter show km traveled?

since I bought it 2 years ago it invariably takes 300 ml of oil per 1000km
traveled 193k km
and what comps I won't tell you, but a few have already been examined

I think I got sick, garbage. You have to get your head to work and replace the rings.

not excluded
I'll only give it when I'm sure.
and it would be good for someone to explain to me why the car on the disconnected flowmeter drives like new and on the connected is the chapel ...
the ignition goes out despite the brand new flow ...

Certainty is the certainty of the tester. Ignition counter, pull the pipe out of the candle and see which counts.