[Solved] vw polo IV 1.2 12V 9n - jerking the car while driving, the car goes out on w

contaminated fuel falls out, water in the fuel also.

Dirty stepper motor, HV cables to be replaced or candles. Fuel injection failed, fuel pump defective. There are many possibilities.

I do not know this model, probably does not have it?

Added after 3 [minutes]:

I wrote only the possibilities that can be such a jerking, can also be a temperature sensor that is located on the engine.

Added after 2 [minutes]:

Bieda z nędzą wrote:

koks110 wrote:

Dirty stepper motor

If you were aware of the nonsense you wrote, you probably buried under the ground and sowed grass in the place of burying. There is no such thing there, and even though it is, it does not affect it.

koks110 wrote:

HV cables

There are no HV cables there, the coils are put directly on the candles.

So if there are coils mounted there must be connected to the computer and check if there is no ignition on one of the cylinders. If you don't need a reason, look elsewhere

Colleague, I suggest you connect a car under VAG, repair in style, maybe I will replace it or maybe it ...... It is a waste of your time and money. If you want to repair and diagnose a fault yourself, the cheapest Obd2 interface costs PLN 40 laptop and you already know what hurts your Polo and the interface remains until the next failure.

I was at the mechanic who found the throttle dirty. the throttle was very dirty, after disassembly I cleaned it is now as clean as the back of the baby. There is no stepper motor, there is a module, these are the words of the mechanic. I exchanged candles for my own peace.

I don't have an interface, neither is the software, so a mechanic. The computer displayed problems with the MAP sensor, ignition loss on subsequent cylinders. After clearing the errors, I traveled about 20 km, the computer did not show any errors, I came home. the next day, disappointment, goes out at low speed, jerks and it is not known when after a dozen or so meters or kilometers it falls on low speed does not respond to the accelerator pedal.

Buddy pay attention to the coils in what condition they are, if you have the possibility of substitutions. Just like colleague koks110 above prompted. a spark appeared. The integration of the ignition system with the injection system allows cutting off the injection into the cylinder with the detected lack of ignition.

I went to the next mechanic, he unscrewed the candles and said that the candles are wet, which means that the "injection" was pouring out, he applied coils to the unscrewed candles and watched the spark jump on the candles located on the engine while turning the starter. The computer lost ignition on the second cylinder. I replaced the injections with new ones, the coil on the second cylinder and for my own peace the first and third. This brought the effect that it stopped dying at idle, on a cold engine it still jerks, on a warm one, but still after driving a dozen or so meters or kilometers it stops responding to the gas pedal. the exhaust light comes on sometimes, not always and after a while goes off.

The next mechanic found the mixture error too poor, often the reason is the poor fuel pressure said that the pressure should be 3 bar and the pressure in the manifold 300 mbar. The pump tested the waveform with something using an oscilloscope so he did not fit the fuel filter and the pump. I was not surprised because he is a mechanic with decades of experience and a very good equipped workshop. He wanted to get to the timing and said that he could jump the chain or pull up then there is less power and more combustion, the catalyst may be clogged and the exhaust outlet difficult. He stopped at the pump and filter, it was better. After driving a hundred kilometers is even worse when you press the gas pedal is suffocating, you should increase the speed very slowly then it will go.

Buddy in this engine often jumps the timing chain (in the version of the engine produced until 2005 later VW graciously improved it). Unfortunately, the chain jumps on the roller on which there is no hall sensor, therefore the computer does not detect it. Organoleptically, this can be checked by unscrewing the two end caps in the battery-side head. After shifting, both rollers should be perfectly horizontal, and it is best to screw in the locks intended for this http://allegro.pl/blokada-rozrzadu-vw-polo-1-2-6v-12v-azq-bme-i7356503607.html#imglayer these two on the left.

By word of mouth, I found a real mechanic, he sat over the car for three days, replaced all the sensors including the engine controller and nothing came of it, so he started from scratch, from the injections, the injections were new and this information confused him after the wine number came that new injections for such an engine but the number of holes and the color marking on them did not match the driver. After putting on the right car like new, this information cost me almost two thousand zlotys. The solution to my problem is INJECTION.