Renault Scenic II - The resistor heats up at 1,2,3 ventilation ratio

Hello
I have a problem with the Renault Scenic II blower, manual air conditioning.
The problem is quite known, it was already in this forum, but I did not find my case.
Ventilation fell again - it started to work only in 4th gear. I ordered a new resistor, I replaced it, it worked. I twisted everything, but after a while I felt the smell of burning in the car. So I ordered a second resistor. I saw that: the blower on 4 works OK. At 1,2,3 the resistor starts to burn after 2 seconds, and after about a minute, it begins to smoke. The cube looks OK (I replaced it six months ago). Fan brand new inserted a year or 2 years ago.

Anyone have any idea what could be the reason?

greetings

If the resistor is inserted into the duct and it overheats, either the cabin filter is clogged or the fan rotates heavily.

andrzej20001 wrote:

If the resistor is inserted into the duct and it overheats, either the cabin filter is clogged or the fan rotates heavily.

The cabin filter was changed three months ago. So theoretically the fan, despite the fact that it works and was replaced with a new one about 2 years ago, could get blurred again and, as I understand it, have some greater resistance and cause the resistor to overheat. As I mentioned at 4 is OK, but at 1,2,3 there is a problem
I will add that some 3 months ago some water got into the cabin due to unclean outflows at the pit.
Is there any other option? He asks, because replacing the fan is a day's work for me - I've already done it once and you have to unscrew practically the entire dashboard.

elektropomoc wrote:

I've already done it once and you have to unscrew virtually the entire dashboard.

It can be removed without dismantling anything, rotated a bit and crawls out.

elektropomoc wrote:

for a new one about 2 years ago

As a replacement or maybe from Polcar, it worked for so long.

milejow wrote:

It can be removed without dismantling anything, rotated a bit and crawls out.

Is it a meter hole?

No, normally downside but you have to do it carefully because the turbine can easily break (it deforms a bit during maneuvers)

milejow wrote:

No, normally downside but you have to do it carefully because the turbine can easily break (it deforms a bit during maneuvers)

But how? We're talking about Scenic, not Megane. In Scenic, the fan is centrally in front of the driver and is removed upwards - not to the side.

If the fan and resistor were actually replaced, before you start replacing it again, check the pins in the plug and wires for a poor, burned connection. I have already replaced the fried part of the beam more than once and there is actually some work in Scenic. And yet, are you sure the resistor is well seated in the channel and not lying next to it?

elektropomoc wrote:

At 1,2,3 the resistor starts to burn after 2 seconds, and after about a minute, it begins to smoke

Okay As the colleague mario77 wrote, is the resistor embedded in the air duct and the air from the fan washes it? If there is no cooling, then after a while there will be a pile of smoke. I don't know how for manual air conditioning but for climatronic the correct current consumption at Max. gear is around 16A. Everything else caused frying of the resistor.

genek1000 wrote:

elektropomoc wrote:

At 1,2,3 the resistor starts to burn after 2 seconds, and after about a minute, it begins to smoke

Okay As the colleague mario77 wrote, is the resistor embedded in the air duct and the air from the fan washes it? If there is no cooling, then after a while there will be a pile of smoke. I don't know how for manual air conditioning but for climatronic the correct current consumption at Max. gear is around 16A. Everything else caused frying of the resistor.

I felt the stench of burning in the car when I had everything turned up nicely. After replacing the resistor a second time, I left it for diagnosis on top. It gets hot (until you can't catch it) at 1,2,3 run after a second. The air that washes it doesn't help in this case.

I bought a fan. From what I read on some Renault forum, it seems that it actually goes somehow in the manual without removing the dashboard (in the machine this is probably not feasible). Used, but since the new one for over PLN 300 lasted 2 years, it is better to spend 1/10 of this sum and take a chance.
In the ankle I pulled a pin by pin - they look like new (anyway, I replaced it 2 years ago).
I just wonder about yet another issue. One of the electricians simply repaired her at one of the repairs and gave a wire instead of a resistor. I was able to return to the factory condition, it worked well for a long time, but is there sometimes a reason ...

I will inform for posterity whether replacing the fan has helped.

elektropomoc wrote:

instead of a resistor he gave a wire

not a resistor but a thermal fuse, this modification may cause a fire

OKAY
I connected a second fan (without replacing it, it was in the passenger seat), but unfortunately it didn't improve. I checked for sure all the pins in the plug - they look like new.
I also checked the plug coming into the ventilation control on the dashboard itself - it also looks OK.
I noticed 2 things:
1. In one of the rows of the plug entering the resistor there are 4 pins. Everyone is responsible for a different fan ratio. And so: I disconnect the first cable - only 4th gear does not work, disconnect the second - only the third gear does not work, disconnect the third - NOTHING WORKS, disconnect the fourth - only the first gear does not work. Could it have something to do with the resistor heating in the first gear ratios?
2. The black-brown cable coming out of the bundle is not connected anywhere. When connected to the resistor ground, the fan runs always at high speed. Maybe it should be connected somewhere (although everything worked before the failure).

Anyone have any idea / knowledge, can point 1 or 2 matter?

I have an idea
Give the car to someone who has any electrical knowledge and some common sense and knowledge of the basics of physics, which unfortunately you lack

If the fan lies next to the seat, how should the resistor cool?
Have you ever heard that when you combine resistance in a circuit it heats up? (see bulb)
Why do you think it doesn't heat up in 4th gear?
You have two fans right now. Connect the meter and check the current consumption for both.
Which wire coming from the beam is not connected anywhere?
Probably fell out of the plug.
Which means the sentence "When connected to the resistor ground, the fan always runs at high speed." ?

Works done.
Ultimately, it turned out that the stench that came from the fan (which was mutated by the children screaming in horror) simply came from a new resistor, i.e. it got a high temperature and simply the material from which it is made because of the novelty had to come at such a temperature half a day, then the unpleasant smell stopped.
I pulled out the entire dashboard (an hour of time to spin, the same for twisting), I replaced the fan (maybe the old one was also functional). In fact, even at lower gears, the resistor after twisting everything as predicted by the factory is quite strongly cooled. At first I was a little wrong. When he wasn't screwed in place - he got really hot. After 2 seconds he could not catch him and after less than a minute he was smoking, but as you can see porch 1000 was right that cooling the fan would do the trick.

Thank you very much for your help. Maybe the topic will be useful to someone with a similar problem in the future