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Scenic II 2.0: Blown Fuse Plate, Melted Resistor, White Relay - Gas Firing & Fuel Injector Issues

IgorEs2 8484 12
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  • #1 16854343
    IgorEs2
    Level 7  
    Posts: 8
    Hello all!
    I had a problem with firing on gas, it did not feed fuel to the injectors. I dismantled the fuse box from under the hood and I can see that some elements are soldered, some resistor is melted and a white relay is soldered on the bottom.
    Does anyone know what it is all responsible for, maybe a diagram and whether it could be the cause of the stench I felt before putting out the car and not giving fuel to the injectors ...? I will be grateful for any help, I attach a photo of the plate, I wonder what to do with it now, repair it, replace it with a new or used one ...? Scenic II 2.0: Blown Fuse Plate, Melted Resistor, White Relay - Gas Firing & Fuel Injector Issues Scenic II 2.0: Blown Fuse Plate, Melted Resistor, White Relay - Gas Firing & Fuel Injector Issues Scenic II 2.0: Blown Fuse Plate, Melted Resistor, White Relay - Gas Firing & Fuel Injector Issues
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  • #2 16854392
    Piasek80
    Level 31  
    Posts: 1845
    Help: 129
    Rate: 660
    For the convenience of use, I would recommend buying a new one
    https://www.eurofrance.pl/Modul-UPC-BSI-Scenic-II-Megane-II-8200306033-Renault
    these are not some enormously expensive things. Stimulants go for PLN 200-300, but as it has been in another car for 10 years, you can buy it in a slightly better condition (than the one you currently have). After so many years, the pins fall off by themselves, only the problem is to bring it back into action and it is not known for how long it will last.
  • #3 16854474
    sulof1601
    Level 26  
    Posts: 598
    Help: 94
    Rate: 280
    Hello. Your mod is in terrible condition. Of course, the smell of no fuel or lights (where the wires are soldered) will not work properly on such a module. From what you can see, it is better to throw it in the trash and buy another one. I mentioned because there were problems with firing it with lights ..... etc. after the exchange as he took away with his hand ..... Good luck.
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  • #4 16854524
    IgorEs2
    Level 7  
    Posts: 8
    and what did you exchange for, old new? Some configurations later because I understand the problems are gone ....?
  • Helpful post
    #5 16854535
    sulof1601
    Level 26  
    Posts: 598
    Help: 94
    Rate: 280
    This is how the problems are gone, I exchanged any configurations for a stimulant, I chose the numbers by numbers and everything works fine.
  • #6 16854562
    IgorEs2
    Level 7  
    Posts: 8
    THANKS CHOP !!!
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  • #7 16871593
    IgorEs2
    Level 7  
    Posts: 8
    welcome back!
    Coming back to the topic, I bought, installed, the problem with firing, etc. disappeared, but the stench of burning, burnt cable still remains, I do not know if plastic or rubber, some electrics in general, it only occurs when you put out the car, the question is why ...?
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  • #8 16871784
    sulof1601
    Level 26  
    Posts: 598
    Help: 94
    Rate: 280
    And this is not a coincidence that the smell of burnt oil may have a slight leak somewhere on the manifold or muffler and it evaporates. While driving, the rush of air blows so you do not feel and when you stop it, the smell gets inside? I think it is more rational than that the installation in car because she would be gone by now.
  • #9 16873344
    IgorEs2
    Level 7  
    Posts: 8
    Well, I don't know, the evident smell of burnt plastic, rubber, oil is not decreasing, everything is ok, so I rather reject this option, I thought about it beforehand. On the other hand, the stench appears only after the car is turned off and in the vicinity of the driver, the left wheel arch, somewhere under the steering wheel on these sides .... after the car is turned off, the voltage gets something else, maybe an immobilizer, but as you wrote, it only stinks for a while, the electrics should already burn during this time ... something behind the wheel, I don't know, I'm looking for the reason and I can't find it, and the car is running and everything is ok ...
  • #10 16873392
    sulof1601
    Level 26  
    Posts: 598
    Help: 94
    Rate: 280
    If the car behaves correctly and nothing discharges the battery, do not look for fault in the electrical system. If the cable was to melt, the insulation would not be there after a few seconds
    check carefully with this oil, because the fact that it is not depleting, it does not mean anything, because one drop on the muffler is enough and an hour will stink, another thing is maybe brake pads, i.e. the caliper holds. you may notice something.
  • #11 16873586
    IgorEs2
    Level 7  
    Posts: 8
    ok, I will check everything right away, but the problem is that it is clearly a smell, the smell of burnt plastic, it does not clutch, not blocks, not oil, he works in the workshop himself and I know what the smells can be, evidently something electric, tpu fan from sensor, cube burned, some short circuit somewhere, I don't know, some resistor, or something at the air conditioning, supply, maybe a resistor ...
  • #12 16873631
    sulof1601
    Level 26  
    Posts: 598
    Help: 94
    Rate: 280
    And you have no problems with the meter?
  • #13 16873711
    IgorEs2
    Level 7  
    Posts: 8
    well, not, once the rest was already replaced, as I mentioned, everything works ...
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around issues with a Renault Scenic II 2.0 related to gas firing, fuel injector malfunction, and electrical problems in the fuse box. The user discovered a melted resistor and a soldered white relay in the fuse box, raising concerns about their functions and potential causes of a burning smell. Responses suggest that the fuse box is in poor condition and recommend replacing it with a new or used module, as repairs may not be reliable. After replacing the module, the user still experiences a burning smell after turning off the car, leading to further inquiries about possible leaks or electrical issues. Suggestions include checking for oil leaks or other electrical faults, as the smell could be due to burnt plastic or rubber components.
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FAQ

TL;DR: If your Scenic II 2.0 loses injector power and the under‑hood fuse plate shows a melted resistor/white relay, replace the UPC/BSI module. Used units run PLN 200–300; they’re "not enormously expensive things." [Elektroda, Piasek80, post #16854392]

Why it matters: This FAQ helps Scenic II owners decide repair vs. replace, match part numbers, and trace post‑shutdown burning smells.

Quick Facts

What is the UPC/BSI module on a Scenic II?

It’s the under‑hood power distribution and control box that feeds relays and fuses for engine and lighting. The referenced unit is sold as “Moduł UPC/BSI Scenic II/Megane II 8200306033,” indicating its role as the car’s front power hub. [Elektroda, Piasek80, post #16854392]

My fuse plate shows a melted resistor and white relay—what does that indicate?

It indicates a failed UPC/BSI module. Users reported degraded boards causing starting and lighting faults. Replacement resolved the issues immediately. Severe board damage warrants replacement rather than repair due to reliability and safety concerns. [Elektroda, sulof1601, post #16854474]

How do I fix no fuel reaching the injectors on gas?

Replace the damaged UPC/BSI module with a good unit. One owner’s car stopped firing and exhibited lighting faults; swapping the module made the problems disappear. "Throw it in the trash and buy another one." [Elektroda, sulof1601, post #16854474]

Should I repair the board or buy another UPC/BSI?

Buy another unit. Pins loosen with age, and repairs may not last. A replacement offers a faster, more reliable fix and avoids intermittent faults. Costs are modest for used parts. [Elektroda, Piasek80, post #16854392]

How much should I pay for a replacement UPC/BSI?

Expect around PLN 200–300 for a used module. Many available units are pulled from donor vehicles and work fine if pins are intact. [Elektroda, Piasek80, post #16854392]

Do I need coding after replacing the UPC/BSI?

Not if you match the part numbers exactly. A user swapped in a unit with the same numbers and reported that everything worked fine without extra configuration. [Elektroda, sulof1601, post #16854535]

Which numbers must match on the replacement part?

Match the full part number string printed on the module label. Owners who selected “numbers by numbers” achieved plug‑and‑play results and normal operation. [Elektroda, sulof1601, post #16854535]

Is a donor unit from another car acceptable?

Yes. Donor parts often come from cars with approximately 10 years of prior use. Inspect connectors and pins, then install if the numbers match. [Elektroda, Piasek80, post #16854392]

I still smell burnt plastic after shutdown—what should I check first?

Check for non‑electrical heat sources. A minor oil leak onto the manifold or a dragging brake can create a lingering burnt smell after stopping, even with perfect electrics. [Elektroda, sulof1601, post #16871784]

Could the smell still be electrical if it only appears after turning the car off?

Unlikely. If a cable were melting, the insulation would vanish within seconds and other symptoms would show, like battery drain. Investigate heat sources instead. [Elektroda, sulof1601, post #16873392]

Where is the smell strongest on this issue?

One report localized the smell near the driver’s side, around the left wheel arch and below the steering column, especially right after shutdown. [Elektroda, IgorEs2, post #16873344]

Can a bad UPC/BSI cause both lighting issues and hard starting?

Yes. A degraded module led to lighting malfunctions and starting problems. Replacing it cleared both faults immediately for the reporting owner. [Elektroda, sulof1601, post #16854474]

How-to: replace the Scenic II UPC/BSI safely

  1. Disconnect the battery and remove the under‑hood fuse box assembly.
  2. Install a replacement UPC/BSI that matches the exact part numbers.
  3. Reconnect, then test starting and exterior lights before driving. [Elektroda, Piasek80, post #16854392]

What if everything works fine but the smell persists—can I keep driving?

If the car behaves correctly and the battery holds charge, focus on mechanical heat sources first. Electrical faults would escalate rapidly with visible damage. [Elektroda, sulof1601, post #16873392]

Why not attempt a board-level repair on the melted fuse plate?

The board was in terrible condition in the reported case. Repair would be unreliable. Replacement removed the issues immediately and restored function. [Elektroda, sulof1601, post #16854474]
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