Somehow I was able to connect the battery to charge from another device. The charger does not charge from now. The voltage from the transformer through the bridge reaches the circuit on the board - all elements are surface mounted. Signaling diodes and charging signs are not lit. The main elements that I was able to read are: LM 358 (smd) and LD 1117A (smd). Markings are very poorly visible, so someone may need this information. What could be causing the fault? If it is LD1117A (I don't know how to check if it is functional) can it be replaced with LM1117?
Well, you're unlucky - Parkside has a digital transmission on the additional battery connector on charging, number of charges, etc ... other cheap ones have a charging input with a lot of voltage. You can buy these cheap third-party chargers and batteries (78970 Power Up - Yato - Toya - Brand -Svoris .... EAN: 5906083789755) - and fit the Parkside screwdriver.
For example, https://toya24.pl/product-pol-10001344-LADOWARKA-10-8V-DLA-78970.html EAN: 5906083789786 And the Parkside battery will stay in the future as a cell donor, or you can buy battery electronics for PLN 8, for these simple chargers and at least without counting the charging cycles. Search by EAN codes, because these chinolas appear under different names, but they have the same EAN code.
Thank you defect for such a comprehensive and at the same time clear answer. However, I wonder if the charger will be functional after replacing those elements that I replaced with new ones. If I understand correctly, I suppose so. The battery that I have has two contacts, but as I guess, it may have "located" memory, eg the number of charges. not a charger. Is it so?
The battery that I have has two contacts, but as I guess it may have memory "located", for example the number of charges. not a charger. Is it so?
Surely only two - and how much does the charger have? Parkside has so far had three, and a processor in the battery and charger. Therefore, after a number of charges and recharges, the battery stopped charging (despite the fact that it was still operational) and it was necessary to do the modification I wrote about earlier.
Hello, I have a similar problem. I have a parkside pabs 10.8v C2-2 charger. Today I wanted to recharge the batteries and only if I heard a "click" and the diodes are off, the charger is not charging. I unscrewed it, I thought that maybe it would be burned or burnt on the plate and there is nothing there. About it start? I feel sorry for her because I used to replace the cells in the battery. I request information.
The aforementioned element (LD1117A) is an adjustable voltage stabilizer. In fact, when it burns out, the charger status LEDs are likely to go out. 2-pin chargers only supply voltage to the battery. After exceeding a certain current, the color of the diode switches - the end of the philosophy. The rest (disconnecting after charging) is due to the electronics in the battery responsible, among others, for securing the cells against excessive discharge or overcharging.
Checking LD1117A (soldered): - entry it is easy to find where the cable (+) coming from the power supply is connected (on the right). - Exit it's the one in the middle (also the fat one on the other side) - mass it's the thin one (1 of 3) on the opposite side (left) If we put the gauge's probes wrong, nothing will happen (unless we short-circuit)
The meter is set to V constant within the range of the output voltage of the power supply. 1. Checking if there is voltage to the stabilizer: - black meter probe to mass - red meter probe to inputs If the meter shows a voltage close to the power supply voltage, we know that the voltage is reaching the stabilizer 2. Checking if there is voltage coming from the stabilizer: - black meter probe to mass - red meter probe to exit The meter should show voltage. What? - it depends on the charger and the battery connected to it. Most likely it will be a voltage slightly higher than the nominal battery voltage. If it is damaged, it usually won't show us full Volts.
Choosing a new stabilizer When choosing a new voltage stabilizer, we search by the mentioned number, asking it to be adjustable . You should also make sure that it is not too weak: check the rated current (or power) of the power supply. The stabilizer value must be higher. If the value in [A] is given on the stabilizer, the power supply must have less. If instead of [A] we have the value [W], then we multiply it by the voltage [V]] and we have [A] ;)
For future reference, post pictures of the layouts on both sides! no matter if there are elements there or not.
The charger in the second photo has an additional built-in power supply. When measuring, be careful where you plug the probe , because you can come across 230V and, apart from an undiagnosed charger, we will have an undiagnosed meter.