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Bosch GWS 14-125 CI - How to undress

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  • Level 10  
    I have a problem namely I can't split this grinder and I don't know what I'm doing wrong, and I want to replace all bearings because they have looseness. Bosch GWS 14-125 CI - How to undress
    Maybe someone will advise me because I have no idea. On YouTube, the guy after unscrewing easily pulled out the rotor at this stage, and for me it is not possible.
  • Level 42  
    There is a nut on the rotor axis.
  • Level 42  
    ko這dziej25 wrote:
    it is not possible for me.
    It looks like your rear bearing is stuck in the housing, if you followed the film, you removed the brushes and you can't slide the rotor out. Try to tap the housing with a hammer, or hitting it on the edge of the table, of course, so that it does not break. Unscrewing the nut mentioned in # 2 may succeed if you locked the rotor, e.g. in the place of the brushes, but it may damage the commutator. Unfortunately, then you will only get access to the bearing at the head.
  • Level 33  
    Yesterday I was repairing a very similar grinder. I could not slide the rotor out of the stator even though the rear bearing could be extended. The problem was the deformed plastic of the stator carcass, which blocked the rotor when trying to eject. The tug helped, the stator coils luckily did not suffer, although the distal later had to be stiffened in the place of damage.

  • Level 26  
    Typically done not to repair.
  • Level 10  
    thank you, I can see that it will be similar to me: /
  • Moderator of Electrical Engineering
    qadam12 wrote:
    Typically done not to repair.

    I would not blame the manufacturer here (unless it's Chinese on poor materials) and the user for overloading the equipment or still working on the damaged one.
  • Level 39  
    ko這dziej25 wrote:
    and I want to replace all bearings because they have looseness.

    I am sorry, but this is not feasible on these Bosch models.
    Unscrewing the gears only with an impact wrench, and photo on a hydraulic press.
    If you have a speed controller / soft starter, you have a magnetic ring at the end of the rotor that needs to be replaced when the bearing is replaced.
    In principle, if the rotor is damaged, its price and repair at an authorized service point is unprofitable - at the same price you will buy a new grinder.
    It only pays to change the stator and brushes.

    And in terms of split - you have to undermine something between the aluminum head body and the plastic engine housing. It can hold the rubber that is applied to the bearing at the end of the impeller.
  • Helpful post
    Level 19  
    ko這dziej25 wrote:
    I have a problem namely I can't split this grinder and I don't know what I'm doing wrong, and I want to replace all bearings because they have looseness.
    Maybe someone will advise me because I have no idea. On YouTube, the guy after unscrewing easily pulled out the rotor at this stage, and for me it is not possible.


    If you can't pull the rotor out, as colleagues have said before, you have an overheated stator.

    I assume you have a vise.
    Hold the grinder firmly by the aluminum head so that you can hit the plastic body with the hammer. So you have it in a vice. You twist the body slightly so that you have a pounding edge and bang with a hammer through e.g. a wood.

    You have to watch if the wires do not strain when knocking out. If the stator is badly welded, you will have to disconnect all cables from the electronics and brush holders so that the rotor comes out of the body together with the stator.

    Of course, the nut on the rotor is unscrewed with a wrench, not an impact wrench.

    If you do not damage the magnet, you do not need to replace it after each disassembly. It is pulled off together with the placenta.

    The bearing in the bearing flange is not replaceable (encapsulated in plastic). It is replaced in full. You need at least a hand press to pull the wheel.

    In general, don't go without it without the press.
  • Level 10  
    TomekB123 wrote:
    ko這dziej25 wrote:
    I have a problem namely I can't split this grinder and I don't know what I'm doing wrong, and I want to replace all bearings because they have looseness.
    Maybe someone will advise me because I have no idea. On YouTube, the guy after unscrewing easily pulled out the rotor at this stage, and for me it is not possible.


    If you can't pull the rotor out, as colleagues have said before, you have an overheated stator.

    I assume you have a vise.
    Hold the grinder firmly by the aluminum head so that you can hit the plastic body with the hammer. So you have it in a vice. You twist the body slightly so that you have a pounding edge and bang with a hammer through e.g. a wood.

    You have to watch if the wires do not strain when knocking out. If the stator is badly welded, you will have to disconnect all cables from the electronics and brush holders so that the rotor comes out of the body together with the stator.

    Of course, the nut on the rotor is unscrewed with a wrench, not an impact wrench.

    If you do not damage the magnet, you do not need to replace it after each disassembly. It is pulled off together with the placenta.

    The bearing in the bearing flange is not replaceable (encapsulated in plastic). It is replaced in full. You need at least a hand press to pull the wheel.

    In general, don't go without it without the press.


    NO finally a specific hint, not beating posts that I won't comment on he he
    Now I know why I had jumps in turnover while working :P

    Bosch GWS 14-125 CI - How to undress
    Bosch GWS 14-125 CI - How to undress
    Bosch GWS 14-125 CI - How to undress

    The only question is whether to buy enough to buy a repair kit 813?
    Bosch GWS 14-125 CI - How to undress
    because everything came out of the collar: /

    Of course, thumbs up for TomekB123 THX!
  • Level 19  
    Check that the bearing seat is not rendered.
  • Moderator Cars
    I would consider - just in case - buying a rotor right away. This one not only has a filed, worn out commutator, it can still be seen on the "iron" traces of rubbing against the stator. It may turn out that it will die in a short time. It's so from practice.
  • Level 10  
    I close and thank you all for quick help