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[Solved] Fiat seicento 900 young - Independent seal replacement. A few questions.

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  • #1 16654951
    kulek855
    Level 13  
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    Hello.

    Fiat seicento 900 young

    I have already driven over 20,000 Fiat. km without major failures. From the beginning from the side of the collector, the engine released minimal oil. So I decided to change the gasket under the head myself, so I have a few questions before I start the job.

    So far I have unscrewed the heads in the motorbike v (two timing chains) so I think I can handle the seicento too. The difficulty is that I want to start this up in a local parking lot, as soon as it would not irritate people.

    Hence, I have several questions:

    - from the photos that I saw on the internet, it appears that the timing can not be changed when the head is unscrewed. Is that so?
    - you do not have to drain the whole liquid from the radiator?
    - how do the valves in the engine open (which pushes these valves)?
    - is it enough to replace the gasket and clean the engine block with solvent or do I need to sand with sandpaper?
    - head if it is straight and it can be mounted without planning, without planning?

    Maybe some other advice on what to look for?
    Please reply.
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  • #2 16655186
    wojtek1234321
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    Timing can be changed when the head is removed, because the camshaft there is in the engine block and valves controlled by pushers, a keyboard screwed on the head and hydraulic pushers / slackeners in the lever on the keyboard. When reassembling, it would be good to keep pushers and clearers in the same way as they were before disassembly, i.e. "from where you removed it and put in there". Next thing is it sure you're leaking from the head, or is it leaking from under the cover of the keyboard, valves and it is not necessary to remove the head? I ask, because the exhaust manifold is screwed to the head (the sucker is one casting with the head) and the UPG is below the collector, so the leaking oil would only flow under the collector around the engine block and it's hard to even notice in this car, unless on the duct or hoist. After removing the head it is rather necessary to plan the head, the needed torque wrench for reassembly. Of course, you can do it without it, but it is rather "drukujstwo" and it is not known for how long such "repair" is enough. I advise you to check carefully this leak of this oil. These engines have "yes" that they usually leak from under the valve cover and do not need to disassemble the head. The dripping oil just collects nicely in such a "special" outlet on the exhaust manifold.
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  • #3 16655207
    Strumien swiadomosci swia
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    It's better not to take off the head because sweating this engine is the norm, and more you can unite than repair it.
  • #4 16655219
    tzok
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    a) no, the OHV engine, the camshaft is in the engine block;
    b) if you do not do it, it mixes with the oil, so it's better to drain the fluid than to change the oil;
    c) the valves are pushing through the valve levers and the pushers through the camshaft;
    d) depends on the surface condition, the scraper should be enough;
    e) it will not be easy ...

    Here are some photos: http://reniferu.blog.onet.pl/2012/08/12/wymiana-uszczelki-pod-glowica/

    You are sure that the leak is from under the head, not the valve cover: http://cento.p2a.pl/viewtopic.php?id=26346
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  • #5 16655222
    kulek855
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    wojtek1234321 wrote:
    Timing can be changed when the head is removed, because the camshaft there is in the engine block and valves controlled by pushers, a keyboard screwed on the head and hydraulic pushers / slackeners in the lever on the keyboard. When reassembling, it would be good to keep pushers and clearers in the same way as they were before disassembly, i.e. "from where you removed it and put in there". Next thing is it sure you're leaking from the head, or is it leaking from under the cover of the keyboard, valves and it is not necessary to remove the head? After removing the head, it is necessary to plan the head, torque wrench during reassembly. Of course, you can do it without it, but it is rather "drukujstwo" and it is not known for how long such "repair" is enough.I advise thoroughly check this leakage of this oil. These engines "have" that usually flows from just under the valve cover to you do not need to disassemble the head. The dripping oil just gets nicely collected in such a "special" outlet on the exhaust manifold.


    Today I cleaned the engine around the head and after driving about 20km you can see very gently leaking oil (sweating) in the vicinity of the ignition device, there is also a little oil under the exhaust manifold (on the engine block) ..

    I replaced the hydraulic gasket and pushers about a year ago - props pushers. 90% of the gasket under the head leaks. I passed almost 30,000. km a bit fear because I like to do routes 300 - 400 km one way ...
    Recently, as I was warmed up by the car on the burial, it was my hair that stood up in horror and I immediately thought of the engine and the gasket ..

    Added after 18 [minutes]:

    tzok wrote:
    a) no, the OHV engine, the camshaft is in the engine block;
    b) if you do not do it, it mixes with the oil, so it's better to drain the fluid than to change the oil;
    c) the valves are pushing through the valve levers and the pushers through the camshaft;
    d) depends on the surface condition, the scraper should be enough;
    e) it will not be easy ...

    Here are some photos: http://reniferu.blog.onet.pl/2012/08/12/wymiana-uszczelki-pod-glowica/

    You are sure that the leak is from under the head, not the valve cover: http://cento.p2a.pl/viewtopic.php?id=26346


    So that it is sweating, which can be seen on the engine and there is not even a drop of oil on the place where I park.
    I have replaced the gasket under the cover and do not leak from it.

    Through these 28 thousand km which I traveled I added from 1l of oil and maybe a little more or less.

    So take care of it or leave it and wait for it to drip?

    Thanks for your answers so far.
  • #6 16655329
    D_Mrozu
    Level 21  
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    Hello.
    I exchanged the UPG in Seicento, but 1.1MPI. In the parking lot under the block I would not have taken such a procedure.
    The head should be cast for planning - it is certainly not simple. A small cost, a service performed in 2-3 hours.
    Without the torque wrench, do not even try to take it - damage to the gasket and your work.
    In 1.1MPI, a channel was used to unscrew the intake manifold (difficult access to the bolts) - here it is with the head - it will be simpler.
    Remember to set the timing correctly before removing the head - in addition, you can make markers with paint.
    Greetings.
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  • #7 16655348
    wojtek1234321
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    D_Mrozu wrote:
    Remember to set the timing correctly before removing the head - in addition, you can make markers with paint.
    Greetings.

    Here in 900 - hundreds of timing "will not move", the camshaft, as mentioned above, in the engine block and it is not possible to change it after dismantling the head.
  • #8 16655420
    kulek855
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    D_Mrozu wrote:
    Hello.
    I exchanged the UPG in Seicento, but 1.1MPI. In the parking lot under the block I would not have taken such a procedure.
    The head should be cast for planning - it is certainly not simple. A small cost, a service performed in 2-3 hours.
    Without the torque wrench, do not even try to take it - damage to the gasket and your work.
    In 1.1MPI, a channel was used to unscrew the intake manifold (difficult access to the bolts) - here it is with the head - it will be simpler.
    Remember to set the timing correctly before removing the head - in addition, you can make markers with paint.
    Greetings.


    From what I noticed, disassembly of the head in s900 should take 1h at most.
    The biggest problem will be draining the cooling liquid - poorer access and housing conditions.
    Then planning. Car in max. Three days should be done. He would leave me in the parking lot until the head was ready.
    I wonder what gasket you will need to insert, without measuring the old better in the dark, do not order. 1.5mm and 1.2mm are available in the shop.

    I have already ordered the key 4.5-30Nm JONNESWAY.
  • #9 16655433
    Strumien swiadomosci swia
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    kulek855 wrote:
    From what I noticed, disassembly of the head in s900 should take 1h at most.


    A lot of hoses, exhaust manifold, coolant.
  • #10 16655510
    kulek855
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    Strumien swiadomosci swia wrote:
    kulek855 wrote:
    From what I noticed, disassembly of the head in s900 should take 1h at most.


    A lot of hoses, exhaust manifold, coolant.

    That's right. But I wanted to unscrew it, head, monowrysk, valve cover, etc. - 1h.
    The cooling system will prolong your work, you're right.
    The exhaust manifold from what I see in the picture is only 3 screws.

    Elements from the head disassembled in the basement to not confuse the places of pushers and valves.

    I will still ask you, the head bolts to be replaced after inserting a new seal, can you use the old one?
    The valves should be dismantled by handing over the planning head?
  • #11 16655547
    wojtek1234321
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    With this repair, it is recommended that the head fastening bolts are also replaced as recommended.

    Added after 2 [minutes]:

    kulek855 wrote:
    The biggest problem will be with the draining of the cooling liquid

    It is rather the simplest thing. Bowl that will fit under the radiator, pull the bottom connector from the radiator or cooling pump, two minutes and the liquid drained. I'd be more afraid of unscrewing the collector, the exhaust system. There, the temperature and corrosion of the screws could have done their job and it could be difficult to unscrew them.
  • #12 16655564
    kulek855
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    wojtek1234321 wrote:
    With this repair, it is recommended that the head fastening bolts are also replaced as recommended.


    So the screws will also be bought.
    You were ahead of my question. I also read that you can replace the valve sealants, unfortunately I do not have a key for them.
  • #13 16655577
    wojtek1234321
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    Well, you'll have a warhead "on top", so it would be a lot easier job.
  • #14 16655616
    tzok
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    kulek855 wrote:
    Through these 28 thousand km which I traveled I added from 1l of oil and maybe a little more or less.

    So take care of it or leave it and wait for it to drip?
    If you just "sweat", do not "mean terrain" and do not take oil, do not touch it. You will screw the exhaust manifold pin and you will have a problem.
  • #15 16655628
    kulek855
    Level 13  
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    tzok wrote:
    kulek855 wrote:
    Through these 28 thousand km which I traveled I added from 1l of oil and maybe a little more or less.

    So take care of it or leave it and wait for it to drip?
    If you just "sweat", do not "mean terrain" and do not take oil, do not touch it. You will screw the exhaust manifold pin and you will have a problem.


    Ok.
    So I will be watching. Eventually tomorrow I will try to take pictures of how the engine looks (leak).
  • #16 17265303
    kulek855
    Level 13  
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    I close. Topic exhausted.

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the independent replacement of the head gasket on a Fiat Seicento 900 Young. The author has experienced minor oil leaks and seeks advice on the procedure. Key points include the confirmation that the timing can remain unchanged when the head is removed, the necessity of draining coolant, and the method of valve operation via pushers and camshaft. Participants emphasize the importance of using a torque wrench during reassembly and suggest planning the head for optimal sealing. Concerns about the feasibility of the repair in a parking lot and the potential for further leaks are also discussed. Recommendations include replacing head bolts and considering the condition of the head gasket before proceeding with repairs.
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FAQ

TL;DR: Head-gasket work on a Seicento 900 OHV often needs head planing (2–3 hours), and “Without the torque wrench, do not even try.” [Elektroda, D_Mrozu, post #16655329] Why it matters: This FAQ helps DIY owners decide whether to fix a minor oil “sweat” or undertake a full head-gasket job safely and efficiently.

Quick Facts

How do I tell if the leak is the head gasket or just the valve cover on a Seicento 900?

Clean the area, drive, and inspect above and below the exhaust manifold. These engines often leak at the valve cover. Oil then pools by the manifold, which looks like a head-gasket leak. Confirm source before removing the head to avoid unnecessary work. [Elektroda, wojtek1234321, post #16655186]

Does removing the head change timing on the 900 OHV?

No. The 900 is OHV. The camshaft sits in the block and drives valves via lifters and rockers. Pulling the head does not disturb the timing set. You still mark parts and keep lifters and rockers in order during reassembly. [Elektroda, tzok, post #16655219]

Do I need to drain the coolant before pulling the head?

Yes. Drain the cooling system first. Residual coolant can spill and contaminate engine oil during disassembly. Refill with fresh coolant after reassembly. This also keeps the workspace cleaner and reduces cleanup time. [Elektroda, tzok, post #16655219]

Should I have the head planed, and how long does it take?

Planing is recommended after removal. A machine shop can typically complete the service in about 2–3 hours. Use proper torque on reassembly to protect the new gasket. “Without the torque wrench, do not even try.” [Elektroda, D_Mrozu, post #16655329]

Can I reuse the original head bolts?

No. Replace the head bolts during a head-gasket job. Torque them in the correct sequence to the specified values. This reduces the chance of gasket failure and ensures clamping consistency across heat cycles. [Elektroda, wojtek1234321, post #16655547]

Is doing a head-gasket in a parking lot a good idea?

It’s not ideal. Access, cleanliness, and fastener corrosion make parking-lot jobs risky. One owner who has done the job would not attempt it under the block. Consider a proper workspace and plan machine-shop timing. [Elektroda, D_Mrozu, post #16655329]

What is OHV on the Seicento 900, in simple terms?

OHV means overhead valves. The camshaft is inside the block. Pushrods move rockers on the head to open valves. This layout keeps timing internal, so head removal doesn’t alter cam timing. Keep valvetrain parts in order. [Elektroda, tzok, post #16655219]

My engine only ‘sweats’ oil. Should I leave it alone?

If it only sweats and oil loss is minimal, many advise leaving it. “If it just ‘sweats’... do not touch it.” Watch for drips and rising consumption. Revisit if the leak worsens. [Elektroda, tzok, post #16655616]

What oil consumption did the thread’s owner report as normal for their car?

They added about 1 liter over 28,000 km, with only light sweating and no puddles. Use this as a reference point, not a factory spec. Track your own consumption to decide on repairs. [Elektroda, kulek855, post #16655222]

What are the main risks if I proceed?

Snapping an exhaust manifold stud is a real risk, especially on corroded fasteners. That turns a simple gasket job into exhaust repair. Penetrant, heat, and patience help, but prevention beats extraction. [Elektroda, tzok, post #16655616]

How do the valves open in this engine?

The cam lobe pushes a lifter. The pushrod moves the rocker, which presses the valve open. Hydraulic lash adjusters live in the rocker assembly. Keep parts in their original positions during reassembly. [Elektroda, tzok, post #16655219]

Do I need to sand the head/block surfaces or just scrape them?

Use a scraper to remove old gasket material. Inspect the surfaces. If flatness is questionable, planing the head is advised. Avoid aggressive sanding that can create low spots. Clean thoroughly before assembly. [Elektroda, tzok, post #16655219]

Which head-gasket thickness should I buy (e.g., 1.2 mm vs 1.5 mm)?

Do not order blindly. Confirm requirements after teardown and measuring, or match to your engine’s spec. The thread author postponed ordering until inspection. This avoids fit and compression issues. [Elektroda, kulek855, post #16655420]

Quick How-To: What’s the clean way to drain coolant before head removal?

  1. Place a wide drain pan under the radiator or pump outlet.
  2. Pull the lower radiator hose or pump connection to drain fully.
  3. Dispose of old coolant responsibly; refill and bleed after reassembly. [Elektroda, wojtek1234321, post #16655547]

Should I replace valve stem seals while the head is off?

Yes, it’s convenient with the head on the bench. Access is better and the added work is modest. This can reduce future oil seepage. Reassemble with correct torque and sequence afterward. [Elektroda, wojtek1234321, post #16655577]

What happens if I tighten the head without a torque wrench?

You risk uneven clamping and early gasket failure. The community guidance is clear: “Without the torque wrench, do not even try.” Borrow or buy a calibrated tool before starting. [Elektroda, D_Mrozu, post #16655329]
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