Installing & Positioning Vents on Old Cast Iron Radiators: Outlet Valves, Angle & Flow Control

Hello gentlemen, I have a question. Where should the vent be installed?

From what I know, it is definitely good how it will be wound in the end plug of the last rib. Assuming that this will be the highest point of the radiator, i.e. it will be slightly angled.

Can there be an option to install the valve at the outlet together with the vent?

I wouldn't have to unscrew these plugs anymore. And the valves will replace with new ones.


Picture attached. The valves released nicely and these plugs do not want on all 4 radiators, so if you can give a valve that regulates the flow along with the vent, why bother with those plugs?

I will add that I do not want any thermostatic valves, just ordinary ones that I can control the flow diameter.

This radiator from the photo is just the longest the rest is a lot shorter.

The best would be enough but I have a few radiators at my place where no air vents are installed. My only venting is to start the pump, turn the valve on the bottom at a given radiator and release the thread on the valve (a slight loosening on the screw connection) and so they manage to bleed. Well, I admit that it is a bit troublesome but feasible. Except arthur

So this is not a problem assuming that the pump comes it will be one of the more odkecenie

As I wrote for me it works. Sometimes you have to repeat this procedure but it works in general (if I have to put on a vent with so much work I feel tired from time to time) Pos artur

Can anyone else share their knowledge?

The vent should be installed on the radiator cap in the last section (rib), in the upper plug. Warning. Corks so-called blind (i.e. not those that are on the power side, but at the end of the radiator) in old radiators often have left-hand threads. To install the vent, unscrew the blind plug and replace it with a plug with a 1/2 '' thread hole into which the vent is screwed. There are also ready vent vents, but it is better to screw a normal vent into the plug with a hole. I did something like that for a few years, but in smaller heaters (the largest had 10 ribs). Sometimes it can be difficult to unscrew the old cork - then you need to use a punching wrench. So that after the work is not warm from under the cork, the surface of the rib contacting the siphon (cork) should be well cleaned of sediment, use a suitable gasket and it is good to apply a liquid seal (special silicone) - for better sealing. The vent is screwed into the purchase or without additional sealing (if it has a built-in O-ring), and if there is no O-ring with thread paste.

I live in a 4-storey block on the top floor. I have air vents in similar heaters on the opposite side from the inlet. In addition, I have cut-off valves on the radiator outlets, which helps me close or replace the radiator even when it is the heating season and for example the radiator is leaking. In addition, these valves help me vent radiators through close-open manipulations. Every year after the start of the heating season, I have to manipulate these knobs, if only because of the neighbors who turn their radiators on when they are too warm or unscrew them when they are cold. And the circulation pump for pumping hot water from the boiler room is not able to quickly top up the water level and I am creating an airbag.

So you write that the vent should be at the end of the radiator. And how does it relate to the fact that once these radiators were vented by unscrewing the power fittings? So if to give a vent there should it be ok?

If there were no air vents at the end of the radiator, it was often vented just by loosening the screw connections on the valves (after turning the valve off). I think, however, that there should be air vents at the ends of the valves and (mandatory) - on the last floor - on the risers.
In general, this radiator in the photo has probably unscrewed plugs from the side of the twigs (both supply and return). Probably too much tow was stuffed and the cork could not be tightened, or the thread was corroded.

I have a one-story house and a stove, what gas will be in the kitchen and the divisions will not be.

In old installations, the valve was vented, but the radiators were mounted so that the end of the radiator was slightly down and venting was not a problem.

That's exactly what I mean if the radiators tilt up towards the power supply then can I do without a vent on the plug and have it on the power supply.
Added after 1 [hours] 4 [minutes]:

Zbigniew Rusek wrote:

In general, this radiator in the photo has probably unscrewed plugs from the side of the twigs (both supply and return). Probably too much tow was stuffed and the cork could not be tightened, or the thread was corroded.

After all, I wrote that the heaters are after removing the valves

poeta janusz wrote:

Zbigniew Rusek wrote:

In general, this radiator in the photo has probably unscrewed plugs from the side of the twigs (both supply and return). Probably too much tow was stuffed and the cork could not be tightened, or the thread was corroded.

After all, I wrote that the heaters are after removing the valves

It looks not like unscrewed valves, but slightly unscrewed radiator caps. After all, when you replace a valve, it is unscrewed from the purchase (with a special wrench), which remains screwed in the radiator, and the valve and the cap are not unscrewed.

[quote = "Zbigniew Rusek"]

poeta janusz wrote:

[quote = "Harvest] It looks not like unscrewed valves, but slightly unscrewed plugs (purchased) on the radiator. After all, when you replace the valve, it is unscrewed from the purchase (with a special wrench), which stays screwed in the radiator, not unscrewed valve and the suction cup.

You see, wanting to regenerate these radiators, I thought it would be good to cut everything off the ribs and then turn it into new ones.

I think I think right?

In the same heaters, living in a block on the 3rd floor, I installed air vents (such a small one was vented by turning a screwdriver) without removing the plug. Simply out of the heating season, when there was no water in the radiators, I drilled holes in the plugs, threaded them and screwed in the vent, winding the tow with thread, then there was no Teflon tape. Drill and tap in the right size and 20 minutes of work with one A radiator for venting on screw connections , my neighbor ended up with a hot water pool on the floor. He released a quarter of a turn too much, and then turn it like a plume of boiling water from the connector ...
In this arrangement, the radiator tilt is of little importance, the cast iron radiator will vent enough if it is level.

kgs245 wrote:

And as for venting on screw connections, my neighbor ended up with a hot water pool on the floor. He released a quarter of a turn too much, and then turn it like a plume of boiling water from the connector ...
In this arrangement, the radiator tilt is of little importance, the cast iron radiator will vent enough if it is level.

So it makes sense to put a vent on the return, right?
If the old school was talking about venting in this place, then the insertion of a vent should also make sense?

How's it coming back? It is vented at the power supply.

Zbigniew Rusek wrote:

How's it coming back? It is vented at the power supply.

Of course on power supply. I mean upstairs.