Czy wolisz polską wersję strony elektroda?
Nie, dziękuję Przekieruj mnie tamandsab wrote:Buddy, there's nothing to think about here. And it does not only apply to this device, but to all impulse power supplies, chargers, converters ... We now have a PLAGUE of damaged lumber Made in China. All of this is done deliberately to break. What you have is the same, do not count on a miracle and do not think, just check all semiconductors and then the elements one by one, because there will be a lot of it horny there. There is no option that the resistor or diode is on and the transistors are not. See the post above mine, your friend is writing what he has fallen out, and it's not all probably yet. All these power supplies (because this is ordinary rubbish is made of just about anything, so that the Chinese would have too much for these pieces for them later) are made for one "hoof", the construction is sometimes confusingly similar to many devices. Look for what else you have stoned because then when you put in good pieces, the smoke will only fly out of them when something else will be compact.After replacing them, the charger still does not work. I think that IC1 is still to be replaced.
Mario 814 wrote:Hello Mario814, thanks for the advice, what I can check only in the problem that I do not know how to do it, I only have the simplest electrical meter at home. It's nice if you write step by step how to check the elements you indicated. RegardsMircio82 you should check the rectifier bridge (diodes), the Mos-fet transistor and the auxiliary converter circuit for a drain-source short circuit. Items marked in the photo.
Mircio82 wrote:Mario, I checked the transistor and bridge today, but I don't know how to check the third element. There is little information on the Internet on how to do this. Maybe it will help, but I did not write that the fuse burns without the battery attached.
Mario 814 wrote:This can be done without combination and with the simplest method of logic. My friend Mircio82 , first of all, there is such a method for short-circuit diagnostics in this type of devices. Instead of a fuse, you give a 230V bulb with a power of about 40-60W, turn the device on and see how the bulb shines with full light, it is a short circuit in the device - SIMPLE AS A CEPA CONSTRUCTION.As for the third element, find a Datasheet for it and identify which pins have the drain and the source of the transistor keying the converter and measure as above.
TL;DR: Fixing a Makita DC18RC often means replacing a failed 6.8 nF C17 that drags the 12 V rail to ~1.95 V; after swap, “the charger is working properly,” with 12.4 V measured. [Elektroda, Mario 814, post #18217570]
Why it matters:** This FAQ helps DIYers quickly identify IC1, confirm parts like R91/D14, and restore auxiliary power safely on Makita DC18RC chargers.
Quick-Facts
