Securing Powermat Chainsaw Screws: Prevent Self-loosening for M5, M6 & M4 Threads in Aluminum

I had an elbow in a tow, where the thread on the cylinder was not at all for several hundred km and the puncture was tightened. Nice to reminisce. The suggested solution with varnish and tow may be the best solution to the author's problem.

After all, the author of the topic wrote a few posts above:

Bambek wrote:

So I dealt with this crap. And so under the M6 I grabbed what was left with the 4.8 drill and under the M5 with a 4 mm drill. The threads did not come out perfectly. After the drill you could see literally the shadow of the old jump in the hole. Here Mr. Krzysztof was right.
Recalibrating the holes with a drill was unfortunately a skill because without it, the tap was clamping after 3-4 turns.

Added after 1 [minutes]:

Bambek wrote:

I made the pins of hexagonal screws improved 8.8, they can be screwed in freely. I put it on the glue I mentioned in post # 8. It all twisted very rigidly, no thread let go. I gave the studs nuts with a plastic insert, a spring washer, and I also screwed them on with glue. On the top, I "smeared" the cap with a hermetic and now it is cooling down.
The motor housing in the saw housing does not give off.

Sorry, I missed it. It should stick after as many protections as it will turn out in the wash.

Today I made an attempt to wipe off the nut on the glue that I used to lubricate the threads of the studs screwed into the aluminum body of the saw motor. More than 24 hours have passed according to the instructions for use of the glue. The test was done on a new bolt and a new regular M6 nut.
The first movement of the nut was quite difficult, the nut offered more resistance than I expected. The next turn seemed to be even more resistant, but later it was getting easier, but it was impossible to unscrew the nut by hand.
The dried glue on the thread where the cap was located was in the form of a white crystallized mass.

Also, in my opinion, the midrange passed the trial test with the M6 nut height of 4 mm, it is quite - subjectively looking - high resistance. For pins screwed in about 8-11 mm, these resistances will probably be 2x higher, also if the vibrations do not affect it and they do not come out with the aluminum, it should hold it.

As for the idea with tow, it is a pity that you did not write it earlier, in addition, I would gently pinch the threads of the pins, they would definitely hold it even better, I did not come up with it myself, well, I will be richer with such knowledge next time.
Still the oil pump pins have been made, I will do them on tow.

After Sunday, when I put it together, the saw will go to work. I will let you know how it all works out over time.
Thanks for all the ideas and suggestions.