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Vitodens 100-W W1 B1C Expansion Vessel Issues: Pressure Drop, Water Leak, & Membrane Replacement

tomix 18528 11
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  • #1 16703282
    tomix
    Level 16  
    Hello,

    For about half a year I have been observing cyclical pressure drop in the central heating installation. Today I decided to check the pressure in the diaphragm vessel out of curiosity. I unscrewed the jumper cap, connected the manometer and instead of measuring half a liter of water fell out of the valve (the valve hung after pressing). I barely turned it on, it just crumbled. I cleaned the internal thread, installed a new car vent, inflated the air, but ...
    Well, should the water in this vessel be mixed with air, or has the membrane broken? The furnace is only 2 years old, inspections were carried out, except for the motherboard that had fallen once :D he didn't cause any problems.
    If it is necessary to replace it, can I buy such a diaphragm vessel myself? The exchange looks very easy.

    Thanks in advance for your help.
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  • #2 16703313
    Magister_123
    Level 36  
    When the water flew it is damaged.
    You can buy and put on the dish yourself but you will not receive a guarantee for it.
    You live in an apartment or at home. Where is the boiler installed?
  • #3 16703321
    tomix
    Level 16  
    So, for exchange ... I found such a dish in an online store for 390 PLN, the Vissmann part number is 7837231 (maybe someone will use it), the link is intentionally not given.
    I live in a house, a boiler in the bathroom. Does it matter in this situation? ;)
    Can using the vessel in its current condition cause any problems? Will the air mix with water and spread throughout the entire installation?
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  • #4 16703472
    Magister_123
    Level 36  
    tomix wrote:
    Can using the vessel in its current condition cause any problems?

    During heating, the pressure in the system may jump to 3 bar and the boiler safety valve will open. As you know, water increases in volume as the temperature rises.

    tomix wrote:
    I live in a house, a boiler in the bathroom. Does it matter in this situation?

    You do not need to buy the original dish. In the basement or other storage room you install a universal diaphragm vessel with a volume not less than what you have installed in the boiler. Of course, the pipe from what the principle of operation will be exactly the same as that built into the boiler.
  • #5 16706157
    BUCKS
    Level 39  
    @tomix
    If you decide to replace the vessel, I recommend adding a special shut-off and drain valve to the diaphragm vessel, which is useful for any servicing, e.g. you can disconnect the vessel without draining water from the heating system. Useful if, for example, we want to check or top up the precharge pressure in the diaphragm vessel.
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  • #6 16706634
    tomix
    Level 16  
    However, I think I'll decide on the original dish. The whole central heating installation together with the boiler is on the same level, it is a flat. I can only put on the expansion vessel inside because it will not look aesthetically pleasing and I would have to modify the installations ;) Thanks to this, the problem of draining water falls off, because the furnace is the highest point in the system. I will let you know after the exchange, maybe I will upload a photo.
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  • #7 16706779
    BUCKS
    Level 39  
    Your original is relatively cheap, because it costs about PLN 730 to my old Vaillant, so the original fell off because of the price. In the case of an apartment, for PLN 390 I wouldn't even think, just take the original.
    I don't know about you, but in my old Vaillant, you can only pull out the vessel after removing the boiler from the wall, so you have to take into account the worst. While disconnecting the water unit is a pikus, gas is a bigger problem.
  • #8 16724415
    tomix
    Level 16  
    I come back with some news. I was able to replace the diaphragm vessel, I do not throw any pictures because it is screwed with only one nut from the top of the furnace, 10 mm. Replacement is trivial, a bit westerly with draining the furnace water (only the furnace, not the installation) and subsequent filling + venting. I checked out of curiosity, the new one has exactly 1.0 bar inside. Oddly enough, the old one after disassembly was also some residual pressure, despite the fact that water was pouring from the valve, and during the last tests I pumped up to 1 bar. I conclude that the leak was "half", but as it is technically resolved - I have no idea.
    400 PLN back and an hour of work.
  • #9 17339710
    Fireman2005
    Level 1  
    Hello.
    I have the same problem that concerns the exchange of a collecting vessel for replacement, could you describe to me what I have to do after replacing the vessel itself, I think it is trivial, but I have a problem in bringing the installation into a proper condition.
    I am interested in instruction from the moment the vessel is attached
    I will be grateful for your help.
    Greetings.
  • #10 17339834
    tomix
    Level 16  
    Hello, with the vessel itself, of course, nothing needs to be done, I assume that the factory diaphragm is supplemented with the right gas / air to the correct pressure. Pay attention to venting the system and topping up to the correct pressure. The venting procedure is described in the service manual for the boiler, I do not know the order of operations by heart.

    Service manual: http://www.viessmann.com/web/poland/pdf-90.ns...todens%20100-W%20B1HA,%20B1KA%20(09.2014).pdf
    page 26.
  • #11 17751419
    Drututu
    Level 6  
    Hello, there is a problem with the boiler, it shows me 3.6bam Vitodens 100-W W1 B1C Expansion Vessel Issues: Pressure Drop, Water Leak, & Membrane Replacement
    Where is the pot in the boiler with behind the bag. Is the cause of such high pressure a damaged vessel? I will add that he will use the boiler from yesterday.
  • #12 17751494
    BUCKS
    Level 39  
    Drututu wrote:
    Where is the pot in the boiler with behind the bag.

    About the dish was written in your thread, so why duplicate matters.
    Download the service manual, where you can see in the diagram where the vessel is.
    It follows that it is on the left when you remove the boiler casing.
    The valve is in the upper part of the vessel and protrudes from the upper part of the boiler casing.
    If you have 2 left hands, you can not read the diagrams and instructions and you feel that the whole thing is overwhelming you, do not try and call a service technician, because if you want to save money you can lose even more.

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around issues with the Vitodens 100-W W1 B1C expansion vessel, specifically concerning a cyclical pressure drop and water leakage from the diaphragm vessel. Users share experiences of replacing the diaphragm vessel, noting that water should not mix with air in the vessel, indicating a membrane failure. Recommendations include purchasing a replacement diaphragm vessel, with some opting for original parts for reliability. Users discuss the installation process, emphasizing the importance of proper venting and pressure maintenance after replacement. Concerns about system pressure and potential safety valve activation due to high pressure are also addressed.
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FAQ

TL;DR: A failed Vitodens 100‑W W1/B1C expansion vessel can push system pressure to 3 bar; “the safety valve will open.” Replace the vessel and recommission per the manual. [Elektroda, Magister_123, post #16703472]

Why it matters: This FAQ helps homeowners fix pressure drops, water at the Schrader valve, and safe membrane replacement on Viessmann Vitodens 100‑W W1/B1C systems.

Quick Facts

How do I know the expansion vessel membrane has failed?

If water comes out of the Schrader valve when checked, the diaphragm is damaged and the vessel has failed. “When the water flew it is damaged.” Do not continue normal operation until you repair or replace the vessel to prevent overpressure events and nuisance trips. [Elektroda, Magister_123, post #16703313]

Is it safe to run the boiler with a failed expansion vessel?

No. During heating, pressure can climb to about 3 bar and the boiler’s safety valve will open. That risks discharge, mess, and potential shutdowns. Fix the vessel before regular use to restore expansion capacity and stable operation. “The safety valve will open.” [Elektroda, Magister_123, post #16703472]

Can I replace the diaphragm vessel myself, and what about warranty?

You can buy and fit the vessel yourself. However, you will not receive a guarantee for that part if you DIY. Factor this into your decision if the boiler is still under any service plan or seller warranty. [Elektroda, Magister_123, post #16703313]

Which part number and typical price fit the Vitodens 100‑W W1/B1C?

One cited OEM vessel is Viessmann 7837231, found by a user for about PLN 390. Prices vary by vendor and region. Use your exact model code when ordering to avoid mismatches. [Elektroda, tomix, post #16703321]

Do I need the original vessel, or can I use a universal one?

You can install a universal diaphragm vessel externally. Size it with at least the volume of the boiler’s original vessel. Mount it in a suitable location and pipe it correctly; operation is identical in principle to the built‑in unit. [Elektroda, Magister_123, post #16703472]

What precharge should a new vessel have?

A new, factory‑supplied vessel was observed at 1.0 bar precharge. Verify with a gauge before filling the system. Adjust only when the heating side is at zero pressure. “The new one has exactly 1.0 bar inside.” [Elektroda, tomix, post #16724415]

How long does replacement take and what tools are needed?

Reported swap time was about one hour. The vessel is held by a single 10 mm nut on top of the boiler. Drain only the boiler, swap the vessel, then refill and vent. Keep towels and a tray ready for residual water. [Elektroda, tomix, post #16724415]

How do I replace and recommission the system (3 steps)?

  1. Isolate and drain the boiler, not the whole installation.
  2. Undo the top 10 mm nut, swap the vessel, check precharge.
  3. Refill to the correct pressure and vent radiators and boiler.
    A user completed this in about an hour and then refilled/vented successfully. [Elektroda, tomix, post #16724415]

How do I vent and top up after fitting the vessel?

Follow the service manual’s venting sequence, then top up to the specified cold pressure. The manual reference shared points to page 26 for the procedure. Keep the pump off during initial bleed. Recheck pressure after the first heat cycle. [Elektroda, tomix, post #17339834]

Should I add a service valve to the expansion vessel?

Yes. Fit a shut‑off plus drain valve set so you can isolate and remove the vessel or check precharge without draining the heating system. This reduces service time and air ingress during maintenance. [Elektroda, BUCKS, post #16706157]

Where is the expansion vessel and Schrader valve on the Vitodens 100‑W?

The vessel sits on the left side once you remove the boiler casing. Its Schrader valve is on the upper part and protrudes from the top of the casing for access. [Elektroda, BUCKS, post #17751494]

My new install shows 3.6 bar—what should I do?

Shut the boiler down and relieve pressure safely. Locate the vessel on the left and check the Schrader valve. If you lack tools or confidence, call a service technician to avoid larger damage. “If you feel overwhelmed…call a service technician.” [Elektroda, BUCKS, post #17751494]

Does boiler location (apartment vs. house) change the approach?

In apartments where aesthetics and space matter, many users keep the original internal vessel. This avoids extra pipework and visible hardware. Choose external vessels when space allows and appearance is not a concern. [Elektroda, tomix, post #16706634]

What happens if air mixes with water inside the vessel?

That indicates a ruptured diaphragm. Expansion capacity is lost, so system pressure surges during heating and lifts the safety valve around 3 bar. Replace the vessel to restore stable pressure control. [Elektroda, Magister_123, post #16703472]

Could replacement require removing the boiler from the wall?

Some boilers do. One user’s older Vaillant needed removal to extract the vessel, with gas reconnection being the bigger challenge. Plan for this edge case during quotes and scheduling. [Elektroda, BUCKS, post #16706779]

How much did a real‑world swap cost and take?

A user reported PLN 400 total and about one hour of work for the swap and recommission. Results may vary by region and service rates, but this offers a practical benchmark. [Elektroda, tomix, post #16724415]
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