Seat Ibiza 6K2 (2 FL) ASV - Windows that do not work - do not respond to buttons

Hello,
Car: Seat Ibiza 6k2 (2 FL)
I have a problem with the electrics - total lack of reaction to the buttons and an attempt to close the key. (key in the ignition turned to "ignition")
After checking the electrics, I found a wire on which the voltage was only 10V - after connecting the "external" voltage (plus pulled from the fuses / battery), the windows started to work normally.
And here is my question what can be damaged, where to look for a fault?

Does any of the forum users have a description (pinout) of the plugs located above the fuses (white, gray, green, blue) - which one is responsible and which cable is what for?
I add a photo with a marked cable under which everything returns to normal after applying voltage.

Just check the fuses very carefully, move them and see if 12V instead of 10V has returned

fuses first checked - all the whole / not blown.
The only way to restore the window to normal operation was to do the above "workaround".

Then connect the meter without a bypass and pull out the fuses until the 10V disappears, then check this fuse socket if it reaches 12V or 10V.
This red-yellow wire goes on a fuse at 99% 10A.

Added after 7 [minutes]:

Enter the year, capacity, car power.

Auto to Seat ibiza 6K2 - (2 FL - lift version) 1999-2000
1.9 TDI 110HP engine
ASV model

Did you check as I wrote you?

Added after 6 [minutes]:

Check the fuse second from the left level, measure the voltage on it and measure if you remove it, the 10V that is without bypass will disappear.

Added after 4 [minutes]:

And of course you also checked the fuses over the relays?

Yes, I checked the fuses - they are all and voltages are within 12 / 13v.
after removing the fuse No. 32 voltage disappears.
I also noticed the lack of voltage on the red and yellow wires in the "Green" plug.

It is now a H1 bulb in hand, one end to ground the other, check if the fuse 32 is inserted and shines with full power on both fuse contacts.

I unscrewed the "can" with the fuses and after cleaning the plugs - unfortunately the effect of this is the disappearance of the aforementioned 10V - after connecting the passage, the windows still work (without it or shake).

My question:
Is there any other module / driver on the way to the window controller (for engines)?
I suspect a damaged one of the wires behind the fuses (there are no visible damages in the box) - but to find out I would need information about the course of the beam from plug to plug (visually it is impossible to grasp because it falls into a thicker bundle which is factory secured with "tape material "and the bundle coming out of the green plug does not coincide with the wires in the bundle behind the relays / fuses)

ps
The voltage before and after fuse 32 is the same (12 / 13V), replacement has changed nothing.

Well, all this indicates damage to the beam, but it still seems to me that the problem is somewhere near the fuses.

what else do you propose to check?
I unscrewed the fuse box and opened it and there is no visible visual damage, burns or anything indicating its damage.
The contacts under the fuses also have no discoloration or burns, the current passes from one pin to the other - the box seems OK.
As I mentioned before - the wiring harness is not able to check, the red-yellow cables go quite a lot and the wiring itself is glued and there is no way to visually trace where the wire goes.
In addition, I noticed that the colors of the plugs also do not coincide with what is behind the fuses - the green plug above the fuses has different wires than those that look the same behind the relays.

Check the continuity of cables from the windscreen controller to engines and I would suggest checking the masses.

Hello,
problem solved.
It turned out that it was "burned out" (not connected to the end right next to the fuse) installation running to the fuse located just above the fuse box.
I paste a photo with the "perpetrator" of all the confusion marked.