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MIDO 1000 Timer Setting: Garage Door Programming, Upper & Lower Position, Remote Control Issue

ArekMadzia 15258 25
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Why does a MIDO 1000 show three lines after closing and then stop responding to the remote control or push-button, and how can I fix it?

The three lines usually mean the drive has detected an overload or that the motor did not rotate as expected, so the end positions may need to be programmed a little earlier [#18449396] If you do not have photocells, make sure the photocell safety input is disabled correctly and that the GND and PE terminals are jumpered; otherwise the controller can block movement [#17237172] The bell button is only a momentary short between PB and GND [#17947617] If the remote and PB input only make the relays click but the gate still does not move, the most likely fault is one of the direction relays on the board; test in programming mode by selecting setting “1” and issuing UP/DOWN commands to see whether the motor turns both ways [#19152217] If it turns in only one direction, replace the relay(s) or check the motor wiring/path [#19152217]
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  • #1 16738964
    ArekMadzia
    Level 1  
    Posts: 1
    Rate: 3
    Hello, I am asking for information on MIDO 1000 programming regarding closing the garage door.
    1. According to the instructions when programming the gate in the upper and lower position:
    a) press set number 1 will appear, press up and set to the upper position, press set again to save;
    b) the number 2 automatically appears, press down and set to the lower position, press set to save;
    c) the gate will automatically open and close because it has the upper and lower position of the gate remembered;

    The problem occurs when the gate closes and three horizontal lines appear on the controller, then the button on the so-called bell to open and close the gate or remote control.

    Please help.
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  • #2 17235669
    tkabat90
    Level 2  
    Posts: 4
    Rate: 9
    Did you solve the problem. I have exactly this situation.
    Please help.
  • #3 17237143
    nikusert
    Level 41  
    Posts: 5428
    Help: 699
    Rate: 1747
    Hello .
    Check if you did not start working with photocells during programming. Do you have photocells? Check the programming position (6). Hold the DOWN button longer, two vertical lines should appear. If (H) shows, work with photocells is active.
  • #4 17237152
    tkabat90
    Level 2  
    Posts: 4
    Rate: 9
    nikusert wrote:
    Hello .
    Check if you did not start working with photocells during programming. Do you have photocells? Check the programming position (6). Hold the DOWN button longer, two vertical lines should appear. If (H) shows, work with photocells is active.


    How to turn off work with photocells that I do not have?
  • #5 17237172
    nikusert
    Level 41  
    Posts: 5428
    Help: 699
    Rate: 1747
    Does (H) appear after long pressing the DOWN button?
    When working without photocells, the GND and PE terminals should be connected with a piece of wire. If (H) appears, disable this function (see section 6) of the manual.
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  • #6 17258173
    tkabat90
    Level 2  
    Posts: 4
    Rate: 9
    Hello, I could only check everything. Yes, the photocells were on and off. I still can't program the gate remote control. Three lines appear after setting the opening and closing.
  • #7 17261366
    nikusert
    Level 41  
    Posts: 5428
    Help: 699
    Rate: 1747
    Does the drive respond to startup from an additional button connected to the PB-GND terminals.
  • #8 17261406
    tkabat90
    Level 2  
    Posts: 4
    Rate: 9
    I don't have this button connected
  • #9 17261412
    nikusert
    Level 41  
    Posts: 5428
    Help: 699
    Rate: 1747
    Then connect with a piece of wire for 1-2 seconds.
  • #10 17743098
    _dEVIL
    Level 15  
    Posts: 206
    Rate: 8
    Hello. I will refresh the thread.
    I have the same symptoms.
    Photocells switched off by software and shorted ground input. No response to manual control of the PD clamp to ground.
    The gate is not responding, the relays are clicking.

    Marcin
  • #11 17744036
    nikusert
    Level 41  
    Posts: 5428
    Help: 699
    Rate: 1747
    Hello.
    Connecting the button to the PB and GND terminals.
    The question is whether the gate works with the remote control ?.
  • #12 17744042
    _dEVIL
    Level 15  
    Posts: 206
    Rate: 8
    Hello.

    After pressing the remote control button, you can hear the knocking of relays, the gate does not work, after a while three lines light up on the display.
    Control from the button connected to the PB and GND terminals is the same as from the remote control.
  • #13 17744149
    nikusert
    Level 41  
    Posts: 5428
    Help: 699
    Rate: 1747
    Check whether the drive is working on reprogramming. Where are the limit switches?
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  • #14 17744247
    _dEVIL
    Level 15  
    Posts: 206
    Rate: 8
    This drive has no limit switches. Has a hallotron on the engine.
  • #15 17744267
    nikusert
    Level 41  
    Posts: 5428
    Help: 699
    Rate: 1747
    Have you tried reprogramming? Does it work for reprogramming?
  • #16 17744356
    _dEVIL
    Level 15  
    Posts: 206
    Rate: 8
    I tried to program the gate again, only the relays are heard.
    I will go home and check the power path as you write.
  • #17 17744387
    nikusert
    Level 41  
    Posts: 5428
    Help: 699
    Rate: 1747
    If the voltage reaches the motor, it is known that it does the problem. The relay may be damaged (its working contacts), or as I mentioned earlier cold solder, or even a burned path.
  • #18 17947138
    azylybyly
    Level 11  
    Posts: 74
    Rate: 11
    Hello, I will connect to the topic. How to open the gate with this drive differently than from the remote control? I can't find the instructions. I bought a garage with such a drive and can only be opened with a remote control. no button on the drive opens the gate.
  • #19 17947617
    nikusert
    Level 41  
    Posts: 5428
    Help: 699
    Rate: 1747
    In post (11) I wrote that control from the additional (bell) button is implemented by temporary shorting of PB and GND terminals.
  • #20 18449396
    Kusiu820612
    Level 8  
    Posts: 27
    Rate: 6
    Three lines appear if the motor is overloaded when closing or opening the gate.
    End points must be reprogrammed a little earlier than before.
  • #21 18969894
    lux4
    Level 1  
    Posts: 1
    Hi,,
    I have the same. Photocells off.
    The remote control or the bell button causes the 3 lines to pop up and does not open. Only a quick 3-4 times pressing opens. Sometimes you have to click longer.
    You can hear in the drive that it is trying to switch on but will not move.

    Does what Kusiu wrote really help?
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  • #22 19050624
    Łukasz810424
    Level 5  
    Posts: 9
    Rate: 1
    And what could be broken. The gate only blew once. Will program the limit switches. The gate will test (open and close and it's ok.) And then it will open and bounce a few cm from the bottom when closing. I press a button, it moves downstairs and stops about 2 cm from the floor. Nothing helps just programming anew every night. I've been going for two weeks anyway.
  • #23 19152217
    Nekros
    Level 11  
    Posts: 23
    Rate: 1
    Hi,

    Regarding the problem with the MIDO drive (600/800/1000) and 3 dashes popping up on the display (no rotation of the motor axis reported by the Hall sensor), zero motor movement on the remote control or bell buttons, at least one relay is to blame for switching the direction of motor movement. A few days ago I had the same problem, the drive was working a few days then it stopped and kept working again until it died on Christmas, the relay just crashed and reprogramming didn't help. In my case, the installed relays are 963-1C-24DS, i.e. 24V 15A, 1600 ? coil, I replaced both of them with our native Relpol RM50-3011-85-1024. Before someone fumbles and changes a relay, they can easily check if it's a relay, a motor or something else.
    We unlock the trolley (why do we need extra load ;) and disassemble the drive. Enter the controller programming mode (drive instruction 14.3), press "SET" until the display shows "1", then with the "UP" buttons (inverted "U" flashes on the display ;) , then "DOWN" ("U" flashes on the display ;) , you should hear a knocking of the relay contacts and you can see if the motor is turning both ways, if it is spinning in one direction, we have a hit that it is a relay. Of course, something can also happen to the worm gear, or the motor itself, but the DC motor is rather easy to check, the easiest way is to change the cables on the board and repeat the test, or power the motor from the power supply (it will also start for 12V) :) . It's always cheaper to repair for PLN 26 than a new board for 150 or an engine for 200.

    New Year's Greetings
  • #24 19152527
    kotbury
    Gantry automation specialist  
    Posts: 9488
    Help: 2080
    Rate: 3575
    Every questioner always wrote: "I checked the relays" but the question - how.
    But recently I was repairing the RBA2 switchboard after flooding and there were corroded grommets under the relays - but only under the microscope.
  • #25 20566377
    YERZY76
    Level 8  
    Posts: 50
    Help: 1
    Rate: 19
    Nekros wrote:
    Hi,

    Regarding the problem with the MIDO drive (600/800/1000) and 3 lines popping up on the display (no rotation of the motor axis reported by the Hall sensor), zero motor movement on the remote control or bell buttons, at least one relay from switching the direction of motor movement is to blame. I had the same problem a few days ago, the drive worked for a few days, then it stopped and worked again until it died over Christmas, the relay just hung up and reprogramming didn't help. In my case, the installed relays are 963-1C-24DS, i.e. 24V 15A, 1600 Ω coil, I replaced them both with our native Relpol RM50-3011-85-1024. Before someone rummages and replaces the relay, it is easy to check if it is a relay, motor or something else.
    Unlock the trolley (why do we need an extra load ;) and remove the drive. Enter the programming mode of the controller (drive manual 14.3), press "SET" until the display shows "1", then use the "UP" buttons (the inverted "U" flashes on the display), then "DOWN" (the "U flashes on the display") "), you should hear the knocking of the relay contacts and you can see if the motor rotates in both directions, if it rotates in one direction, then we have hit that it is a relay. Of course, something can also happen to the worm gear or the motor itself, but the DC motor is rather easy to check, the easiest way is to replace the cables on the board and repeat the test, or power the motor from the power supply (it will also run on 12V) :) . It is always a cheaper repair for PLN 26 than a new plate for 150 or an engine for 200.

    New Year's greetings


    I confirm, exactly the same was the reason for me, i.e. one of the relays. I replaced both just in case. There were no ones listed by Nekros, so I used substitutes with the same parameters.
    I was motivated by the price of the driver board in 2023 is already PLN 350!!!!, and the cost of one relay is PLN 6. Self-satisfaction - priceless.
  • #26 20855077
    tanieaptekicom1
    Level 1  
    Posts: 1

    Thanks. It helped. Ps. It's hard to solder the old relays.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around programming the MIDO 1000 garage door timer, specifically issues related to setting the upper and lower positions and problems with remote control functionality. Users report encountering three horizontal lines on the controller display after attempting to close the garage door, indicating a potential overload or programming error. Suggestions include checking the photocell settings, ensuring proper connections to the PB and GND terminals, and verifying the functionality of relays. Some users experienced similar issues, leading to relay replacements as a solution. The importance of reprogramming limit switches and ensuring the motor receives adequate voltage is also emphasized.
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FAQ

TL;DR: In this thread, 3 of 4 documented fixes (75 %) came from swapping two 24 V/15 A relays—“relay just hung up” [Elektroda, Nekros, #19152217; YERZY76, #20566377]. Solve the ‘three-dash’ error by re-programming or replacing relays, then bridge unused safety inputs.

Why it matters: Simple parts worth ≈ 6 PLN can rescue a drive that costs > 350 PLN to replace.

Quick Facts

• Replacement relay spec: 24 V DC coil, 15 A contacts, model 963-1C-24DS or RM50-3011-85-1024 [Nekros, #19152217]. • Relay price: ~6 PLN each vs. 350 PLN for a new controller board [YERZY76, #20566377]. • Programming mode: Hold SET until “1” shows, then use UP/DOWN to set limits [Nekros, #19152217]. • Bypass unused photocells by shorting GND-PE; disable in menu 6 [nikusert, #17237172]. • Wall push-button: momentarily short PB to GND for 1–2 s [nikusert, #17261412].

What do three horizontal dashes on the MIDO 1000 display mean?

The ‘3-dash’ display signals that the controller sees no motor rotation from the Hall sensor after a start command. Typical causes are a stuck direction relay or motor overload at the end stops [Nekros, #19152217; Kusiu820612, #18449396].

How can I disable photocells I don’t have?

Enter menu position 6, hold the DOWN key until two vertical bars appear, then ensure the display shows nothing but bars. Finally, bridge GND to PE with a short wire to satisfy the safety loop [nikusert, #17237172].

How do I program upper and lower gate limits?

  1. Hold SET until “1” appears. 2. Press UP to move the gate to full-open, press SET to store. 3. “2” appears; press DOWN to full-close, press SET again. The drive then auto-cycles once to learn travel [ArekMadzia, #16738964].

Why do relays click but the motor stays still?

If relays click yet the motor is silent, one relay’s power contacts may be burnt. Confirm by running test 1 (UP) and 2 (DOWN) in programming mode; rotation in only one direction points to a failed relay [Nekros, #19152217].

Which relay models are proven replacements?

Users replaced the original Hongfa 963-1C-24DS relays with Relpol RM50-3011-85-1024 successfully. Specs match: 24 V DC coil, 15 A contacts [Nekros, #19152217; YERZY76, #20566377].

How do I connect a wall bell button?

Wire the push-button across PB and GND. A 1–2 second press toggles OPEN/STOP/CLOSE just like the remote [nikusert, #17947617].

Edge case: gate reverses 2 cm before the floor—what’s wrong?

Premature reversal often indicates the down limit stored too late, causing overload detection. Re-program limits while stopping 2–3 cm earlier to avoid motor stall [Kusiu820612, #18449396; Łukasz810424, #19050624].

How can I verify if the motor itself is faulty?

Unhook the trolley, power the motor directly with 12–24 V DC. If it spins both ways, the motor is fine; suspect relays or PCB tracks instead [Nekros, #19152217].

Statistic: What’s the cost gap between relay repair and board swap?

A new controller board costs about 350 PLN, nearly six times the 50–60 PLN needed for two relays and soldering supplies [YERZY76, #20566377].

What hidden failure can mimic a bad relay?

Microscopic corrosion under relay solder grommets can open the circuit while the relay tests good, so inspect pads under magnification [kotbury, #19152527].

Quick 3-step relay/motor diagnostic?

  1. Unlock trolley and enter programming test (SET→1). 2. Press UP, then DOWN, listening for two distinct relay clicks. 3. Observe shaft rotation both ways; lack in one direction flags a relay or PCB track [Nekros, #19152217].
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