Opel Omega B 2.0 16v DTI - Vacuum Hoses Connection, Damaged Injection Pump, and Acceleration Issues

Hello.
Some time ago I bought Omega B, as it turned out, it had a damaged Injection pump.
Errors that the car had before repairing the pump were:
p1630 - communication fault 1
- not continuous
p1631 - injection pump
- not working properly
-nieciagle
p1125 - boost pressure control valve
- circuit broken
- not yet
p1110-variable air intake / variable swirl
- circuit broken
- not yet

After repairing the pump a change for the better, the engine works evenly Sounds nice but the errors are:
P1220
p1125
p0400 all three related to communication failure No. 1 or No. 2.B
I am very wondering if the vacuum hoses are well connected, adds Photo

the car behaves as if it had no turbine, it just doesn't feel acceleration and the turbine can be heard
The hose coming from the intelcooler under the EGR after adding gas and at the same time squeezing it sucks it (the weight does not get stiff)

The valves describe:
-vac- negative pressure
-atm -air air
-out - output for pneumatic cylinder.
Which valve where goes check by unplugging the plug and reading the error.
Often vac pumps fall and this helps:
you release the vacuum controlling the valves from the pump. You mount this check valve instead of the servo existing on the line and supply the valves with a small stub. Give all new snakes.

Will I find a vacuum scheme somewhere? Because I don't think this one electro valve should be a closed circuit?
This is how it looks with me

You have vacuum everywhere on vac. So on three connectors. And 3 hoses for cylinders. Check at least the tubing diaphragms for leakage with the hose and mouth.

I did the order with the hoses, I bought rubber hoses, there is no difference.
I connected the computer and I'm wondering about this graph.
[Film: 49411a0cc9] https://filmy.elektroda.pl/73_1507912034.mp4 [/ film: 49411a0cc9]


what does this involve?

After firing turbo from the turbo is pulled to the max?

No, it stays in the initial position.

Well, a valve, a vacuum or a leaky pipe. It won't be power until it draws in.
p1125 bows

How can I verify this?
Can I take a snuff, for example Szczykawka?

Connect the vac cable under the cable. Should pull for max. But you have an electrical valve error. Swap, e.g. with a manifold flap valve, is the same. Of course you can also check the actuator with a syringe.

When connecting the syringe to the pear, it works as it should, while in the tubs there is very low pressure, such a barely blower and barely sucks, the hoses look okay, when with the engine running a pear the hose going from the intercooler to the erg becomes stiff as it should

Jewasky wrote:

barely sucks

leak (pipe or valve) or pump vac

And there is some bypass vac pump because the tubes checked and it's okay

Post No. 2 bows. Valves in turn must be disconnected from vac maybe one flushes

I noticed that I have a black plug connected to the gray solenoid valve, while a black plug to the gray one can cause a problem?

I wrote unpin and read errors for identification

andrzej20001 wrote:

The valves describe:
-vac- negative pressure
-atm -air air
-out - output for pneumatic cylinder.
Which valve where goes check by unplugging the plug and reading the error.
Often vac pumps fall and this helps:
you release the vacuum controlling the valves from the pump. You mount this check valve instead of the servo existing on the line and supply the valves with a small stub. Give all new snakes.

Buddy, is this just a check valve? Where exactly is it mounted?