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Nissan Almera N16 2001 1.8L - Linting at acceleration cannot maintain speed.

SylCiu 8409 14
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  • #1 16754526
    SylCiu
    Level 8  
    Hello you

    I have a Nissan Almera N16 1.8 114HP Hatchback 2001.
    I have a big problem with it, because car behavior often causes dangerous situations.
    Has anyone encountered the problem of weakening the car when it warms up?
    It is true that I have GAZ founded as in the subject, but this problem was even before the founding of gas. But it is becoming more and more onerous. Regardless of whether I'm on gas or gas.

    The case looks like this.
    After firing while driving, the car reacts smoothly to adding gas and as far as it speeds up nicely.
    As soon as the temperature tip starts to rise, the car "freaks out".
    This means that it does not react smoothly to the addition of gas and to accelerate I usually have to give gas to the bottom and in 3-4 seconds from hitting the floor the car starts to accelerate but terribly muddy.
    In addition, when you add gas vigorously, it will slightly accelerate, then slow down significantly (slow down) and soon accelerate again. He does so in every run.
    And 2000 rpm (1900-2100) is for him a black hole in this place even from the hill can slow down the car.
    It should also be noted that on the highway during acceleration usually accelerates to 120km / h and stops accelerating as if it was the limit of possibilities and sometimes when the wind blows harder or a slight hill it significantly slows down 100-110km / h.
    Then I usually barely touch the gas to keep it 120km / h and in 15-30 seconds I add gas and slowly the speed increases to 140km / h and again stops accelerating.
    It is strange because I recently drove A4 from Krakow and after entering the highway I drove about 130km / h (so much pulled out after entering). For testing, I added gas (it lasted - 4 people) but reached about 175km / h I was surprised because she had not gone so long (only with the driver). She rides depending on her humor :roll:

    Finally, I would like to ask how you drive this version of Almerka (those who have it)?
    Do you have to turn it a lot to speed up smoothly?
    At how many revolutions do you usually change gears to maintain smooth acceleration?
    In my situation, when I want to revive the dynamics so that the next gear also wants to accelerate after the change is up to 4,000. to feel acceleration at the next.
    I didn't have a Japanese car before but I drove quite often with the Honda Accord 1.8 136HP and she likes high revs but has been boldly and smoothly since 2 thousand. rev / min.


    I will add that Check jumped once during the ride. I switched off and started the car again and the check went out.
    After a week of driving up to the computer (I could not before) the mechanic did not see any error.
    In addition, I asked him to check the flowmeter parameters and also check the first lambda probe. He said that he also had such Almera and that the data is fine.
    As for the mechanic, he said that there is an incorrect value that depends on the variable camshaft, that it does not change regardless of the speed and should change smoothly from a negative value up and I think it was -60 constantly.
    I forgot the name of this parameter.
    Measurements at the mechanic were made with the engine fully warmed up.
    The flow meter did not give me peace, I read a bit and took a measurement of its voltage depending on the speed.

    My results are:
    Quote:
    idle - 1.3V
    2tys.obr. - 1.8V
    4tys. rpm. - 2.25V


    I read on the forums that at 4,000. should have about 4V ...
    Therefore, I spent almost PLN 500 and purchased a new flow meter.
    Quote:
    BOSCH
    0 280 218 094

    That's exactly what I had mounted.

    I bought it to make sure that this is not the fault of the flow meter, but after replacing it with a new one I did not notice the difference in power.
    I replaced it with an air filter.
    Only after the assembly (when I was disappointed that the car did not gain power) I wondered if it was really that the model was originally fitted or if the previous owner had inserted another one.

    Voltage measurements of the new flow meter depending on the speed:
    Quote:
    idle - 1.27V
    2tys.obr. - 1.6V
    4tys. rpm. - 2.35V

    With a quick addition of gas to the bottom a higher voltage appeared on the multimeter for a split second and showed 2.88V (but it probably does not matter)

    Now the only question is whether both flowmeters are functional.
    But did they sell me in the MroAuto.pl store?
    http://katalog.mroauto.pl/katalog/nissan/alme...&brandNo%5B0%5D=30&do=sortBox-sortForm-submit
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  • #2 16755831
    żałosna udręka
    Level 34  
    Replace coils and candles.
  • #3 16757077
    SylCiu
    Level 8  
    @ pathetic torment it's just a guess to test or do the symptoms relate to their failure?
  • #4 16757136
    żałosna udręka
    Level 34  
    SylCiu wrote:
    however, the symptoms refer to their failure
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  • #5 16757211
    SylCiu
    Level 8  
    Please advise which candles and coils are best to buy?
    What manufacturers or what parameters?
    Quote:
    Engine 1.8 114HP Petrol + Gas
    Manual gearbox
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  • #6 16757235
    Stanisław Chwalisz
    Level 34  
    Such symptoms can be caused by a damaged variator (near variable camshaft timing).
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  • #7 16946343
    SylCiu
    Level 8  
    I also replaced the candles, I haven't moved the coils yet, because I spent money to buy a flow meter.
    Replacing the candles as well as the flow meter did not affect the engine's operation. Still the same.
    Now after a while the car drives even worse. It tugs at every acceleration attempt.
    It doesn't just tug on the gas pressed into the floor ...
    Is it possible for the muffler or catalyst to get clogged?
    Anyone know a mechanic in Rzeszów or nearby worth recommending?
    Lack of attempts to repair and texts from the mechanic like "Maybe sell better" I find inappropriate without diagnosis :)
  • #8 16946741
    przemek25l
    Level 29  
    Check to see if the catalyst is clogged. In these cars, as oil takes it is the norm. Fortunately, a lot of work is not there.
  • #9 16947757
    tino2003
    Admin of GSM Group
    A few years ago I had similar symptoms as in your engine, which after warming up lived its life (I almost lost my life once when overtaking the speed suddenly dropped below 2k)
    A familiar mechanic did not know what could be the reason and just in case he ordered to buy a used flow meter on a trial basis what I did (from the allegro for PLN 140) and after replacing the car he has been driving so far.
    You bought a second one, which doesn't always mean good, maybe it's worth the risk and buy another one, even a drug?

    Normally you can't drive with such a defect.
  • #10 16948479
    SylCiu
    Level 8  
    Until now, it was not so persistent, rarely and only at about 2 thousand. rotation.
    After leaving Bieszczady, he got much worse :-)
    I bought a new flow meter and if someone checked it and said it was bad, there is a one-year warranty on it. I don't have much money for testing :-(
    I already suspect EGR and even coils but I have to hold back on the flow of cash.
    Right now I don't even ride it ...
  • #11 16949399
    tino2003
    Admin of GSM Group
    I will look in the garage today and there is a chance that I will find my old flow meter, I will check the numbers or take pictures of him and if he will be the same as yours, I will send it to you and check it out. The fault occurred sporadically (say once every two weeks, but it will be suitable for testing.)
  • #12 16953162
    SylCiu
    Level 8  
    Today, out of curiosity, I drove up to the nearby Vehicle Control Station, because soon I will be overhauled.
    The review was carried out with a positive result.
    The diagnostician noticed something and said: please check the valve setting, because the amount of hydrocarbons in the exhaust gas is increased .
    Lambda came out almost perfect ~ 1.01 and other parameters supposedly very good only those "hydrocarbons".
    Can you deduce something from this suggestion / measurement?
    Of course, he asked if I added oil, I honestly said yes.
    Added after 6 [minutes]:
    Now I read something like this:
     Węglowodory (HC)
    Są to nie spalone lub częściowo spalone cząsteczki paliwa- związki szczególnie trujące o bardzo negatywnym działaniu na organizm człowieka. Najbardziej niebezpieczną grupą są węglowodory aromatyczne jednopierścieniowe, a wśród nich benzen, który w dużych stężeniach powoduje śmierć. Rozpuszczając się w tłuszczach mogą kumulować się tkankach ludzi i zwierząt. Węglowodory (HC) na analizatorach spalin mierzy się w jednostkach ppm (parts per milion)*.Oprócz rury wydechowej źródłem węglowodorów w samochodzie są też skrzynia korbowa silnika i zbiornik paliwa. W pojazdach posiadających katalizator utlenia on zawarte w spalinach węglowodory na dwutlenek węgla (CO2) i parę wodną (H2O).

    Can this indicate that the catalyst is not doing its job?
    Gentlemen, I don't know if I've been to a competent mechanic but he said that there are two catalysts in my Nissan, can anyone confirm or deny it?
  • #13 16953299
    żałosna udręka
    Level 34  
    I can deny it. You need to read the parameters while driving, then you can say something, not guess.
  • #14 16954547
    robin161
    Level 25  
    Stanisław Chwalisz wrote:
    Such symptoms can be caused by a damaged variator (near variable camshaft timing).


    I would check the variable camshaft selenoid (remove and check if it opens to its full extent) - they often get dirty and cut. They also don't always crash (P0011).
  • #15 16985794
    SylCiu
    Level 8  
    Hello again.

    Finally, I came across a sensible car electrician who did diagnostics and improved my car in two days. But not quite because ...
    It turned out that the molten catalyst was to blame for everything. The electrician claimed that when testing the pressure gauge at the place of the first probe there should be low pressure and apparently my gasification reached 3 (I think, probably the atmosphere? Bar?) The first near the exhaust manifold. Because he says there are two, and that the first is not exchangeable.
    In his opinion, the catalyst was damaged by a wrongly set gas installation.
    Because, as he said on gasoline, lambda stays properly in the whole rev range and at the pedal in the floor the mixture is even richer.
    And after switching to the gas installation, apparently lambda is ok for "gentle driving" and with vigorous driving or greater load is too poor, which caused the first catalyst to melt. The other one is intact (it did not find any blocking of exhaust gases on it).
    What do you say?

    Below is a photo of the measurements taken, which I received from the car electrician who carried out the test.
    Nissan Almera N16 2001 1.8L - Linting at acceleration cannot maintain speed. Nissan Almera N16 2001 1.8L - Linting at acceleration cannot maintain speed.
    Has he done good research?
    Nissan Almera N16 2001 1.8L - Linting at acceleration cannot maintain speed.

    For now, I tested it only on gasoline, because this electrician told me not to run on gas before setting it, that the computer selects the parameters for gasoline and that it would be easier for the gasman to choose the optimal parameters for gas.
    My feelings for today are sensational. They haven't pulled so well for a long time :-o Let's just hope it wasn't a momentary flow of energy xD


    Deviating from the topic of repair, this mechanic (electrician) told me that I had two catalysts, the first one is not exchangeable (whatever that meant). What do you say? Because I can't get it anymore.
    Can I name this first catalyst? What does this involve, because I no longer get it ...

Topic summary

The discussion revolves around a 2001 Nissan Almera N16 1.8L experiencing significant performance issues, particularly a loss of power when the engine warms up. Users report symptoms such as unresponsive acceleration, rough engine behavior, and potential clogging of the catalyst or muffler. Suggested solutions include replacing ignition coils and spark plugs, checking for a clogged catalyst, and inspecting the variable camshaft timing solenoid. One user identified a melted catalyst as the root cause, attributed to improper gas installation settings affecting the air-fuel mixture. The conversation highlights the importance of diagnostics and proper maintenance to resolve these issues.
Summary generated by the language model.
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