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Romet Ogar 205: System Connection and Sound Signal Issues

woda_cisowianka007 19968 12
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  • #1 16768749
    woda_cisowianka007
    Level 18  
    Posts: 772
    Rate: 156
    Board Language: polish
    Hello.

    I have a question probably for the 20th time here but I still count on help.
    I have a Ogar 205 with a sound signal which probably was original there.
    Earlier I had an old installation but it was very hard and the pins were flying out of the sockets, so I decided to create a new one. I connected according to the old one, but unfortunately I can't get along with it.
    Certainly nothing broke because I didn't move anything more, except that if I don't connect it, something works and something doesn't work anyway.

    I currently have it working for me. And with the lights it is different and the sound signal, either I have a long signal and a signal, or I don't have a long signal at all and the signal works. I wonder why after switching the ignition switch on the light, then I hear the sound of the signal or once as I plugged it all the time the signal was bothering me ... I can't understand it.

    If someone can, please don't say which cable to go where, because there is no diagram in the picture for the sound signal.
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  • #2 16768778
    piotrek22101
    Level 39  
    Posts: 3323
    Help: 695
    Rate: 1411
    Board Language: polish
    That's all I have, the signal is.
    Attachments:
    • Romet Ogar 205: System Connection and Sound Signal Issues 205.jpg (81.28 KB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
  • #3 16768804
    woda_cisowianka007
    Level 18  
    Posts: 772
    Rate: 156
    Board Language: polish
    But this scheme is not for Ogar 205 but for Romet Kadet from the Chrome frame I have a different one. There plugs 6 pins into the lamp from behind. It's best if someone describes me which cable to connect to because I have the diagram but there is no signal in it.
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  • Helpful post
    #4 16768882
    piotrek22101
    Level 39  
    Posts: 3323
    Help: 695
    Rate: 1411
    Board Language: polish
    This is for Ogar 205 with the signal.
    Attachments:
    • Romet Ogar 205: System Connection and Sound Signal Issues d80ba592e2.jpg (30.44 KB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
  • #5 16768937
    woda_cisowianka007
    Level 18  
    Posts: 772
    Rate: 156
    Board Language: polish
    I partially agree, PIN1. from the bottom green ok, PIN 2 red agrees, 3 I have to tell, PIN4 I have a single yellow cable going to the rear lamp not like here 2 cables that go to the back (because 2 I have pins on the fender or going to ground. Pin 4 I have it too, and PIN5 is ok.

    Now the question is whether the wires connected to the steering wheel switch need to be connected in order or does it not matter? More or less, I tipped the signal from the signal to the synagogue so that he would go, but the rest probably according to the scheme, but I do not know if it matters or not.
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  • #6 16768950
    piotrek22101
    Level 39  
    Posts: 3323
    Help: 695
    Rate: 1411
    Board Language: polish
    Rather, it matters, everyone is responsible for something else. You replace them, something will work badly.
  • #7 16769034
    woda_cisowianka007
    Level 18  
    Posts: 772
    Rate: 156
    Board Language: polish
    Rather, are you sure? I connected the signal wire to the signal pin, and the rest of the 3 cables according to the diagram in the figure, which was together with the wiring harness. I will play with it tomorrow. And if you can, please send me a more detailed photo or cable scheme that goes in the lamp to the switch. Because on that one you can hardly see my way.
    For this I have to say that in the lamp I have 1 label not connected, it is a cable from PIN 1 Looking at the diagram from below. I do not see that he is going somewhere, if the break is just loose and it probably was, although I am not sure. Anyone know where he is from and where he should lead?
  • #8 16769066
    piotrek22101
    Level 39  
    Posts: 3323
    Help: 695
    Rate: 1411
    Board Language: polish
    The cable from pin 1 goes to the light bulb, together with the cable from pin 5.
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  • #9 16770437
    woda_cisowianka007
    Level 18  
    Posts: 772
    Rate: 156
    Board Language: polish
    I did it according to the pattern. Unfortunately, this does not work as it should. In the position without lights they are lights, in a position where they should be lights, the lights turn off and the signal tolls non-stop. Only extinguishing is as it should.
  • #10 16770451
    piotrek22101
    Level 39  
    Posts: 3323
    Help: 695
    Rate: 1411
    Board Language: polish
    You have a meter, check the signals on the switches.
  • #11 16770469
    marqqv
    Level 32  
    Posts: 1758
    Help: 162
    Rate: 606
    Board Language: polish
    You'll probably find it here :D :arrow:
    Attachments:
    • romet_naprawy_serwis.pdf (33.97 MB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
  • #12 18130282
    Grodek 92
    Level 1  
    Posts: 1
    Board Language: polish
    I have it hooked up as in the diagram and then when I switch to long, the front is lit and the back is not. Is it possible that the switch does not conduct after switching to long?
  • #13 19467114
    seba_majsyer223
    Level 1  
    Posts: 1
    Rate: 1
    Board Language: polish
    Look, I've been improving installations lately, I also had problems. I'll give you some advice.
    I personally have a new type of lamp

    The connection is good from the diagram above

    -I had so that in one position of the switch (long short) once the lamp on the back shone and once on the front. The answer to this solution is 3pin (black cable split into two) which had no connection to the lamp


    -Signal or lights I put on 12v bulbs (front and back) the problem does not appear anymore, i.e. I can use the signal with the lights on


    - the engine went out with the lights on, it turned out that there is too much gap in the candle.

    Moderated By robokop:

    I think we thanked you for participating in the forum? https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/uzytkownik3605132.html Goodbye, for the second time.

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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around troubleshooting sound signal and lighting issues in the Romet Ogar 205 motorcycle. The user has replaced the old wiring installation but is experiencing inconsistent behavior with the sound signal and lights. Responses highlight the importance of correctly connecting the wires according to the wiring diagram, as incorrect connections can lead to malfunctioning signals and lights. Users suggest checking the wiring order, ensuring proper connections to the steering wheel switch, and using a multimeter to diagnose issues. Some users share their experiences with wiring configurations and recommend using 12V bulbs to resolve conflicts between the signal and lights.
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FAQ

TL;DR: Fix Ogar 205 horn–light faults fast: confirm the 3‑pin split is connected and fit 12 V bulbs; “The connection is good from the diagram above.” [Elektroda, seba_majsyer223, post #19467114]

Why it matters: This FAQ helps Ogar 205 owners wire lights and horn correctly, diagnose switch faults, and stop constant honking.

Quick Facts

How do I stop the horn from sounding when I switch on the lights?

Connect the split 3‑pin lead correctly and verify the handlebar switch mapping. Using 12 V bulbs in front and rear eliminated the horn–light conflict for users. If the issue persists, re‑seat the lamp connector and retest. “I put on 12 V bulbs…the problem does not appear anymore.” [Elektroda, seba_majsyer223, post #19467114]

Which pins feed the headlamp bulb on the Ogar 205?

Pin 1 goes to the light bulb together with Pin 5. Verify both have continuity to the bulb holder. If either is open, the headlamp will not illuminate correctly. Map these first before testing other circuits. [Elektroda, piotrek22101, post #16769066]

Does the wiring order on the handlebar switch matter?

Yes. Each wire performs a specific function. Swapping them can make lights and horn behave incorrectly or in the wrong positions. Label each lead and match the diagram before powering up. “You replace them, something will work badly.” [Elektroda, piotrek22101, post #16768950]

Why does only the front light work on high beam while the rear is dark?

The high/low switch may not conduct on one throw, or the rear feed is on the wrong pin. Test the switch with a meter for continuity in each position and correct any miswired leads at the block. [Elektroda, piotrek22101, post #16770451]

Where does the cable from Pin 1 in the lamp go?

It goes to the headlamp bulb, together with the cable from Pin 5. If Pin 1 is loose or unconnected, the lamp will not function as expected. Secure both leads to the bulb circuit. [Elektroda, piotrek22101, post #16769066]

Is the Ogar 205 headlamp connector really 6‑pin?

Yes, forum users report a 6‑pin connector on the back of the lamp. Identify all six positions before wiring the horn and light circuits to avoid cross‑feeds. This is a common point of confusion during harness replacement. [Elektroda, woda_cisowianka007, post #16768804]

My lights work in the wrong switch positions—what did I do wrong?

The handlebar switch is likely miswired. Each terminal maps to a specific function, so incorrect placement will invert positions or combine circuits. Re‑pin using the correct order, then test each throw. [Elektroda, piotrek22101, post #16768950]

Rear lamp sometimes works instead of the front—could a split lead be the cause?

Yes. A black 3‑pin split without a proper connection caused alternating front/back lighting for a user. Reconnect that split properly and retest beam selection. This fixed the odd behavior. [Elektroda, seba_majsyer223, post #19467114]

How do I continuity‑test the handlebar switch with a meter?

  1. Unplug the 6‑pin lamp block and isolate the switch harness.
  2. Set the meter to continuity; probe the expected pairs in each switch position.
  3. Mark any non‑conducting throws and re‑pin or replace the switch accordingly. [Elektroda, piotrek22101, post #16770451]

Why does the horn sometimes blare when I toggle the ignition or lights?

Cross‑wired leads can feed the horn through the lighting throw. Users observed nonstop horn with lights mispositioned. Rebuild the harness per the correct pinout and verify each switch output with a meter before final assembly. [Elektroda, woda_cisowianka007, post #16770437]

I have only one yellow lead to the rear lamp, but the diagram shows two. Is that okay?

Some setups feed the rear lamp with a single lead and ground through the fender. If your harness lacks the second wire, ensure the fender ground points are clean and tight to avoid flicker or dropouts. [Elektroda, woda_cisowianka007, post #16768937]

Could a bad switch cause no rear light on high beam?

Yes. If the switch fails to conduct on the high‑beam throw, the rear feed may drop. Confirm continuity for the high position. Replace the switch if the path stays open under actuation. [Elektroda, Grodek 92, post #18130282]

What bulb voltage helps the horn work with lights on?

Users report success with 12 V bulbs installed front and rear. After switching, the horn operated normally alongside the lighting load. This change also reduced odd interactions under beam selection. [Elektroda, seba_majsyer223, post #19467114]

The engine stalls when I turn the lights on—what else should I check?

Check the spark plug gap. One user found the plug gap was too large, and the engine died when lights were on. Correcting the gap restored stable running with lights engaged. [Elektroda, seba_majsyer223, post #19467114]

What did the original poster observe about switch behavior and the horn?

They reported the horn sounding during light switching and sometimes constant honking. This pointed to miswiring in the newly built harness and incorrect switch mapping. Re‑pinning resolved similar cases. [Elektroda, woda_cisowianka007, post #16768749]
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