FAQ
TL;DR: Fix Ogar 205 horn–light faults fast: confirm the 3‑pin split is connected and fit 12 V bulbs; “The connection is good from the diagram above.” [Elektroda, seba_majsyer223, post #19467114]
Why it matters: This FAQ helps Ogar 205 owners wire lights and horn correctly, diagnose switch faults, and stop constant honking.
Quick Facts
- Ogar 205 headlamp bucket often uses a 6‑pin connector at the back of the lamp. [Elektroda, woda_cisowianka007, post #16768804]
- Pin 1 goes to the bulb together with Pin 5 in the headlamp circuit. [Elektroda, piotrek22101, post #16769066]
- The handlebar switch wire order matters; swapping leads causes incorrect operation. [Elektroda, piotrek22101, post #16768950]
- An unconnected 3‑pin split and non‑matching bulbs can cause horn–light conflicts; 12 V bulbs solved it. [Elektroda, seba_majsyer223, post #19467114]
How do I stop the horn from sounding when I switch on the lights?
Connect the split 3‑pin lead correctly and verify the handlebar switch mapping. Using 12 V bulbs in front and rear eliminated the horn–light conflict for users. If the issue persists, re‑seat the lamp connector and retest. “I put on 12 V bulbs…the problem does not appear anymore.” [Elektroda, seba_majsyer223, post #19467114]
Which pins feed the headlamp bulb on the Ogar 205?
Pin 1 goes to the light bulb together with Pin 5. Verify both have continuity to the bulb holder. If either is open, the headlamp will not illuminate correctly. Map these first before testing other circuits. [Elektroda, piotrek22101, post #16769066]
Does the wiring order on the handlebar switch matter?
Yes. Each wire performs a specific function. Swapping them can make lights and horn behave incorrectly or in the wrong positions. Label each lead and match the diagram before powering up. “You replace them, something will work badly.” [Elektroda, piotrek22101, post #16768950]
Why does only the front light work on high beam while the rear is dark?
The high/low switch may not conduct on one throw, or the rear feed is on the wrong pin. Test the switch with a meter for continuity in each position and correct any miswired leads at the block. [Elektroda, piotrek22101, post #16770451]
Where does the cable from Pin 1 in the lamp go?
It goes to the headlamp bulb, together with the cable from Pin 5. If Pin 1 is loose or unconnected, the lamp will not function as expected. Secure both leads to the bulb circuit. [Elektroda, piotrek22101, post #16769066]
Is the Ogar 205 headlamp connector really 6‑pin?
Yes, forum users report a 6‑pin connector on the back of the lamp. Identify all six positions before wiring the horn and light circuits to avoid cross‑feeds. This is a common point of confusion during harness replacement. [Elektroda, woda_cisowianka007, post #16768804]
My lights work in the wrong switch positions—what did I do wrong?
The handlebar switch is likely miswired. Each terminal maps to a specific function, so incorrect placement will invert positions or combine circuits. Re‑pin using the correct order, then test each throw. [Elektroda, piotrek22101, post #16768950]
Rear lamp sometimes works instead of the front—could a split lead be the cause?
Yes. A black 3‑pin split without a proper connection caused alternating front/back lighting for a user. Reconnect that split properly and retest beam selection. This fixed the odd behavior. [Elektroda, seba_majsyer223, post #19467114]
How do I continuity‑test the handlebar switch with a meter?
- Unplug the 6‑pin lamp block and isolate the switch harness.
- Set the meter to continuity; probe the expected pairs in each switch position.
- Mark any non‑conducting throws and re‑pin or replace the switch accordingly. [Elektroda, piotrek22101, post #16770451]
Why does the horn sometimes blare when I toggle the ignition or lights?
Cross‑wired leads can feed the horn through the lighting throw. Users observed nonstop horn with lights mispositioned. Rebuild the harness per the correct pinout and verify each switch output with a meter before final assembly. [Elektroda, woda_cisowianka007, post #16770437]
I have only one yellow lead to the rear lamp, but the diagram shows two. Is that okay?
Some setups feed the rear lamp with a single lead and ground through the fender. If your harness lacks the second wire, ensure the fender ground points are clean and tight to avoid flicker or dropouts. [Elektroda, woda_cisowianka007, post #16768937]
Could a bad switch cause no rear light on high beam?
Yes. If the switch fails to conduct on the high‑beam throw, the rear feed may drop. Confirm continuity for the high position. Replace the switch if the path stays open under actuation. [Elektroda, Grodek 92, post #18130282]
What bulb voltage helps the horn work with lights on?
Users report success with 12 V bulbs installed front and rear. After switching, the horn operated normally alongside the lighting load. This change also reduced odd interactions under beam selection. [Elektroda, seba_majsyer223, post #19467114]
The engine stalls when I turn the lights on—what else should I check?
Check the spark plug gap. One user found the plug gap was too large, and the engine died when lights were on. Correcting the gap restored stable running with lights engaged. [Elektroda, seba_majsyer223, post #19467114]
What did the original poster observe about switch behavior and the horn?
They reported the horn sounding during light switching and sometimes constant honking. This pointed to miswiring in the newly built harness and incorrect switch mapping. Re‑pinning resolved similar cases. [Elektroda, woda_cisowianka007, post #16768749]
