Comparing Cylinder Pressure vs CO2 Content in Car Liquids: Xsar Picasso Case Study

Hello.
What is the point of comparing the pressure on the cylinders in the car when you suspect a damaged seal? Instead of measuring compression in order (which is troublesome with e.g. Xsar Picasso where the coil is integrated), just check the CO2 content in the liquid.
Check kits cost from 20 PLN. I don't know how reliable these sets are, but considering the number of buyers ...
It may be worth buying a device to check the pressure, however? Prices from PLN 50 here.
Maybe I will answer myself partially. It is not only the gasket that affects such symptoms. Valves?

I am asking because car (here Xsar Picasso ) loses power in gusts and it is very annoying at the traffic lights when you need to start on the green, and after pressing the accelerator the revs can fall ... Not always, but it happens ... For this car can catch a "mule" .
Connecting to a computer shows nothing .
All in all, if someone is a "hobbyist" and likes to waste time looking for a good mechanic, he can let go of such instruments. However, it irritates me a bit ...

CO2 also want to check the breakdown between cylinders?

It is with the engine running and gassing that the bubbles should probably go in the fluid tank like this.

sly_1978 wrote:

CO2 also want to check the breakdown between cylinders?

I didn't take this option into account, but I'm not a mechanic just a "tired" victim skirmishes between mechanics and the vehicle.

keseszel wrote:

which is troublesome with e.g. Xsar Picasso where the coil is integrated

In what way does such a coil interfere with checking compression?
I have the impression that you have no idea how to do such a test.

Each fault can have a different background. Why do you think yours is a head gasket?

And why do you suspect head gasket?
Once it is burned out, with a blow it is damaged, and once it is not?
You would have similar symptoms all the time, not just at traffic lights.
I had a cracked head, that's a bit worse than EPA.
In the morning, the pond in the cylinder, after firing, when the liquid blew out, rode well until it was fully heated, then it was only the liquid from the crack that flooded the candle and the ride ended ...
Good, but the fluid was disappearing all the time.
Disappears to you too? Oil increases, decreases? Hard hoses? Overheating, underheating? Is it bubbles in the tank? Any other symptoms, smoke, water is coming out of exhalation?

keseszel wrote:

Connecting to a computer shows nothing.

Take you can connect this computer and observe changes while driving, compare changes in engine work when it works well with those when it works badly. The lack of errors does not have to be an indicator of the correct operation of the sensors or other electro-mechanical equipment. I do not know how much self-diagnosis is extensive in this xsara, but I have an error, e.g. a temperature sensor will occur in two cases, short circuit in the sensor or on the wires - temp above 146C, or breaks - temp below -35C.
The range from -35C to 146C for the engine controller is OK, but whether the indicated temperature is adequate to warm up and the controller based on it properly prepares the mixture for burning is another matter. With an incorrect, because the engine is cold, and the sensor lies that it is 90C I will have low fuel, the reverse is too rich in fuel, and despite the lack of errors, because everything takes place in a safe and "error-free" temperature range for the controller -35C + 146C.
Do you understand what I mean by giving an example? Are you probably preparing a thicker money for perhaps unnecessary demolition of the engine, without checking other possible faults, because the Internet is full of UPG and "check for errors" ...
Here you have from "my" backyard https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic255626-30.html, what was and still is to blame for bad engine operation? A pair of wires connected together?

keseszel wrote:

I am asking because car (here Xsar Picasso ) loses power in its gusts and it is very annoying at traffic lights when you need to move on the green, and when you push the gas pedal, the revs can fall ... Not always, but it happens .. For this car can catch a "mule".

e.g. a coil, integrated can hurt, one falls, you have to buy four ... The shaft sensor, which controls everything in total, the plug unbuttoned ... 2-3 times in a rainy week or something. It was enough to press as I was lucky - he shot himself trying to move, i.e. he was mullah because generally only incidentally lost for a moment connection in this plugin, which does not mean that it could not last until today ...

Every now and then there are more hits, I don't want to create a toy car story .. Most things are overwhelmed, sometimes with help. Unfortunately, mechanics are far away, time consuming and troublesome access. Services cost, sometimes diagnoses are made, sometimes not. Never mind.

Strange things happen from time to time. After adding gas, mud slows down during normal driving, "hole" after adding gas, going out at traffic lights. Depending on the option. Sometimes. I was interested in checking if the gasket is not damaged or the engine is running. This explains some of the problems then. In most cars I had, the compression pressure was always checked. The most common pain of cars with LPG. I think so, I could be wrong. Prices of currently available devices are acceptable, and a person with intelligence and manual skills can embrace the basic "bullshit". I do not write about cars that require no technical background. My just does not require no one to know, but rather only knowledge

Not to move away from the subject. The liquid is ok, it doesn't rise, it doesn't fall. There is no milk It is possible that exhaust fumes from the filler cork are coming, but I don't think so. Such "I don't think" needs to be confirmed by some measurement. Here the compression ... So the instrument ...
Problems with coupling, if any. Gasket between cylinders (water eliminated).
Sealers. Where this from Because sometimes on a cold zakopci, or white blows sometimes. But it's all a device. Candles replaced. The shaft sensor remains, the stepper motor (cleaned). Some electrical connection .. Generally there is something to break ...

Did you check the fuel pressure?

The purge of the combustion chamber into the water jacket is always the discharge of liquid through the plug, notorious aeration of the system and after cooling the liquid disappears (empty tank) Compression pressure does not hurt to check and the coil does not bother you because you unscrew all candles for this procedure anyway. The faults you describe fit into the standard problem of all old French people, i.e. trash and trashy electrical installation.

bandi21 wrote:

Did you check the fuel pressure?

LPG and Pb .. I usually run on LPG. Miracles are happening here and there.

I am afraid that the installation may fail. Only the casing remains of the hangman. But it has been like this for several years. I do not intend to put in a word before any other advice. Rides x time without hangman, exhaust fumes approx.

All in all right with this coil, you have to detach it anyway to measure.

Question to "fairies" .. How is the reliability of the compression tester reliable? Without verification, it is a total index of even compression in the engine chambers, I suppose. But the number of people sold is interesting .. In total, people take and probably do not complain .. But I have not seen praise ...

milejow wrote:

old French

A 15-year-old car is just fresh , How dare you..

I don't know what engine you have ... although in gasoline it is a rare case, such a symptom (silt when starting off) can give, among others sticking EGR valve. For this car with LPG, so you should start by eliminating the fault of LPG.

http://klubcytrynki.pl/forum/index.php?topic=45685.0

I did a lot of "lemon-like clubs" .. There were 5 pages there ... I was there. To this "lpg-like" page , even my posts on the electrode regarding the reducer .. Comments on the sludge in the filters .. because they were not exchanged x time ... They did not help ... Replacement of filters in the service (because I could cut something when replacing), then adjustment of the installation by the service - a toy car like gold, up to 120 / h, it was cool More was nowhere, so I was happy as a child .. Until after a few days the problem returned. Contrary to the advice (even the assembly company said that after such a course a new evaporator should be deserved), I removed the evaporator, dismantled, cleaned (somewhere I may have the remains of photos from what was in it), I put on the old gaskets that were (cleaning it up for "crazy"), because just continuous pipipipi at some point led me to pull out the evaporator ...
Currently, the reducer is probably ending its life, because it is the seventh year in the car ... km, and at the mention of filters he made big eyes.
The subject has expanded a bit compared to my original assumption, I will close it for now. What will I buy - I hope to inform you in the future.