Improvement of the old type central heating boiler in Olsztyn

Hello, recently I wrote in this topic - https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3018667.html

Unfortunately, next winter, I have the same problem again, continuous walking to the stove for up to 30 minutes ... I have enough.

I'll tell my story.

I am asking for help and advice in burning my CO stove

Photos of the stove and installation - see the link below.

I will present what my problem looks like.
I have no problem with lighting it every day and putting it out in the evening, but the most troublesome for me is to constantly control the temperature and add it to the stove every 30 minutes.

I smoke on the move. I put in a small amount of coal so as not to boil the stove. I turn on the pump immediately. In the evening I do not add fuel to the stove, and it goes out by itself and I turn off the pump. Unfortunately, at around 60 degrees, water starts to drip / come out from the screw cap. A colleague from work said that it is enough to tighten, but I am not moving because I am afraid it will worsen, because once I tightened the screw above the boiler, it broke completely. It is probably because no one lived in the house for 3 years or smoked in the stove (the water was drained).

Unfortunately, the measuring device does not work or I do not know how to operate it, it walks hard and does not move at all. If you set the flap to a very small opening, then it burns poorly and does not want to reach a temperature higher than 50 degrees, or it hardly reaches 50 degrees. If, on the other hand, I open the flap more, then the temperature in the furnace quickly rises to 60 or even 65 degrees, and I have to close the flap immediately, and sometimes the damper because I'm afraid that something will boil

I can't change my stove and I don't want to invest too much because the house has many owners and nobody will pay back the investment.

What will be the best way to improve my stove? A colleague proposes to install the blower in the damper and the controller.
On the internet I found https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=15DBdRk5PJQ SUCH a movie, it's probably the same stove.
But there is another problem, the differential valve above the stove, it does not always open, i.e. when the pump is set to the 3rd level, it moves normally, such a metallic thump as if sucking in is heard, but when it is on the 2nd level it will never surprise and there is no sound.

oczko991 wrote:

But there is another problem, the differential valve above the stove, it does not always open, i.e. when the pump is set to the 3rd level, it moves normally, such a metallic thump as if sucking in is heard, but when it is on the 2nd level it will never surprise and there is no sound.

Let me start from the back ---- the valve closes after turning on the pump. How do you explain that it does not work properly in 1st or 2nd gear? Could the pump not pump hot water then?

I do not know if it closes or opens, I do not know what installations
I think that it does not work in 1st and 2nd gears, because maybe the rubber or plastic ball has got some rust and sticks too much.
please help me improve the boiler

oczko991 wrote:

I think it doesn't work in 1st and 2nd gear

You think, but you are not sure. Just put your ear to the pipes and you can hear whether the pump is working in 1st or 2nd speed. And if it works, it also pumps the water.
Without a regulator, if it does not work, it is also possible to smoke, only the temperature control on the boiler will not be possible, although by properly setting the ash pan flap, you can also smoke. Reaching the temperature of 60 or 65 degrees is not a reason to fear that you will boil water. If you know how to open the hatch to reach a temperature of 50 degrees, maybe it will be enough "a bit" more, not too much, to be good.

oczko991 wrote:

I don't want to invest too much in it

If so, it is much cheaper to buy a draft regulator than a fan with a controller.

Hello.
If you do not hear a click in the first and second gear, and the differential valve does not close, the pump pushes water, but in a short circuit and the ear can be put against the pipe to heat them ... ? As for the regulator, hmmm ... I had one, and in my life I won't. Well, unless the regulator is included in the price of the fan and controller.
Sorry, I just looked at the topic given in the first post, you can see everything nicely there.
Remove the differential valve and install a regular ball, plus the simplest pump controller. And please do not write: what will happen when the pump fails? For 20 years no one has let me down ...

Moderated By ROBSON33:

3.1.11. Don't post messages that add nothing to the discussion. They are misleading, dangerous or do not solve the user's problem.

oczko991 wrote:

I smoke on the move.

And have you not tried to light from the top?

oczko991 wrote:

Unfortunately, at around 60 degrees, water begins to drip / come out of the screw cap on https://photos.app.goo.gl/uC6jaPdYPm32NKPp1 IN THIS photo. A colleague from work said that it is enough to tighten, but I am not moving because I am afraid it will worsen, because once I tightened the screw above the boiler, it broke completely. It is probably because no one lived in the house for 3 years or smoked in the stove (the water was drained).

When it drips, you can unscrew the flare nut (optionally replace it with a new one if you can see damage to the thread), put new tow on the thread and a decent sealing paste
threads and dies should not.

And the door in the boiler is sealed with a glass cord? If not, I would recommend sealing, it is easier to control the operation of the boiler.

oczko991 wrote:

Unfortunately, the measuring device does not work or I do not know how to operate it, it walks hard and does not move at all. If you set the flap to a very small opening, then it burns poorly and does not want to reach a temperature higher than 50 degrees, or it hardly reaches 50 degrees. If, on the other hand, I open the flap more, then the temperature in the furnace quickly rises to 60 or even 65 degrees, and I have to close the flap immediately, and sometimes the damper because I'm afraid that something will boil

First, describe how you calibrate the regulator. Secondly, 65 degrees is the minimum temperature that most boilers should be operating at, not cause for fear. When I smoke, I usually have even 85 degrees sometimes ... Keeping 50 degrees on the stove does not mean burning but burning fuel. In addition, at such a temperature there will be a problem with boiler corrosion.

oczko991 wrote:

A colleague proposes to install the blower in the damper and the controller

It's like treating the flu by putting your leg in a plaster ... IMHO won't do much. The blower and the solid fuel boiler do not work very well together. This is mainly a way to waste fuel.

oczko991 wrote:

But there is another problem, the differential valve above the stove, it does not always open, i.e. when the pump is set to the 3rd level, it moves normally, such a metallic thump as if sucking in is heard, but when it is on the 2nd level it will never surprise and there is no sound.

If you suspect that the differential valve is not working, you need to remove it and clean it, checking that this ball moves freely. Alternatively, you can replace the valve with a new one - cost from 40 PLN.

Waldek Osiński wrote:

Well, unless the regulator is included in the price of the fan and controller.

You tell good jokes.

Waldek Osiński wrote:

And please do not write: what will happen when the pump fails? For 20 years no one has let me down ...

May you live a long life and never let any of you fail. Because if it fails ... Seriously - do not offer anyone to install a time bomb in the boiler room.

I want to start burning from the top, I just have to prepare the stove
at the beginning, I would like to install a new regulator, because after turning it does not respond, I do not know how to operate and calibrate it
then seal the bottom door that has the largest gap
replace the filter in front of the pump because the radiators at the top of the house do not heat up fully
finally, reduce the combustion chamber and cover the vertical grate

I am asking for instructions which valves to turn on / off to drain the water, and in what order to do it.
How to install the regulator later and how to vent the entire system?

Could someone illustrate it by rewriting any of the photos in paint?
Thank you in advance for your help.

I will write as if I did it and ask for improvement.
1. Close all possible valves on the stove.
2. Attach a garden hose to the outlet of the stove tube on the bottom right and unscrew the valve.
3. Unscrew the measuring gauge and screw in a new one
4. Unscrew the filter, clean and fit a new one.
5. Fill the installations
6. Bleed the last radiator to the first, then the pump? and is the regulator to be slightly unscrewed? should venting be done on a burning stove or on a cold one? how to know when to stop adding water to the system?

So I would start by cleaning this filter:



Ps. Correct the first post.

Quote:

Unfortunately, at around 60 degrees, water begins to drip / come out of the screw cap on https://photos.app.goo.gl/uC6jaPdYPm32NKPp1 IN THIS photo. A colleague from work said that it is enough to tighten, but I am not moving because I am afraid it will worsen, because once I tightened the screw above the boiler, it broke completely. It is probably because no one lived in the house for 3 years or smoked in the stove (the water was drained).

Xantix wrote:

When it drips, you can unscrew the flare nut (optionally replace it with a new one if you can see damage to the thread), put new tow on the thread and a decent sealing paste
threads and dies should not.

Packs + paste will help if there is a leak in the thread. If it is on the cone (it is leaking from this large nut), it means that either the cone finish (grinding) is damaged - if the flare nut is "ground" conical, without a gasket, or - if the flare nut is flat, the gasket - the gasket is damaged (she grew old). In the latter case, unscrew this large nut (after draining the water), replace the gasket and tighten the nut. If the surface of the cone is damaged or the flare nut is "ground" (without any gasket), it must be replaced. Sometimes it is possible to temporarily seal the damaged flare nut by wrapping it several times with Teflon tape so that when tightened (tightened) the tape forms a seal. It may also be the case that the flare nut is installed misaligned (and therefore leaky).

Zbigniew Rusek wrote:

Quotation:
Unfortunately, at around 60 degrees, water begins to drip / come out of the screw cap on https://photos.app.goo.gl/uC6jaPdYPm32NKPp1 IN THIS photo. A colleague from work said that it is enough to tighten, but I am not moving because I am afraid it will worsen, because once I tightened the screw above the boiler, it broke completely. It is probably because no one lived in the house for 3 years or smoked in the stove (the water was drained).

Xantix wrote:
When it drips, you can unscrew the flare nut (optionally replace it with a new one if you can see damage to the thread), put new tow on the thread and a decent sealing paste
threads and dies should not.


Packs + paste will help if there is a leak in the thread. If it is on the cone (it is leaking from this large nut), it means that either the cone finish (grinding) is damaged - if the flare nut is "ground" conical, without a gasket, or - if the flare nut is flat, the gasket - the gasket is damaged (she grew old). In the latter case, unscrew this large nut (after draining the water), replace the gasket and tighten the nut. If the surface of the cone is damaged or the flare nut is "ground" (without any gasket), it must be replaced. Sometimes it is possible to temporarily seal the damaged flare nut by wrapping it several times with Teflon tape so that when tightened (tightened) the tape forms a seal. It may also be the case that the flare nut is installed misaligned (and therefore leaky).

This flare nut has an o-ring.

Zbigniew Rusek wrote:

Sometimes it is possible to temporarily seal the damaged flare nut by wrapping it several times with Teflon tape so that when tightened (tightened) the tape forms a seal.

But the photo shows that someone did just that, so it remains to replace the valve with a new one.

it is rather sediment from the water that comes out there.
it did not leak during the first year of heating, then after the summer period it started to come out each time as the boiler temperature is> 60 degrees

If tightening does not help, with a "feeling" not to break, then the replacement of either the o-ring or the entire valve, with a screw connection. It is also possible that it is leaking from the top thread and that water is collecting at the bottom near the nut. To check it, just wrap this part of the screwdriver in the place marked with the arrow in the 1st photo (a little higher, preferably in the middle) with a thin wire. If water runs off the wire, it is flowing from the thread from above.

oczko991 wrote:

at the beginning, I would like to install a new regulator, because after turning it does not respond, I do not know how to operate and calibrate it

Calibration is the basis for the regulator to work well:
1. Assemble the regulator on the boiler.
2. You heat the boiler to 60 degrees without the use of a regulator (manually controlling the flap).
3. You set the regulator knob to a temperature about 5 degrees higher than that on the furnace thermometer.
4. Use the screw on the regulator to adjust the arm so that it is in the horizontal position.
5. You attach the chain to the flap by adjusting its length so that the flap has a slot as thick as a match.
6. Now the regulator should work properly.

oczko991 wrote:

then seal the bottom door that has the largest gap

Just don't seal the air supply flap.