Controlling Temperature in ZEBIEC S1WK10 Furnace: Managing Overheating and Water Pump Setup

Dear forum users. A few days ago I bought a house with a very simple stove - ZEBIEC S1WK10. From the furnace, hot water goes to the pump (there is also a bypass) and then goes to the distributor. The pump is connected to the controller and turns on at a temperature of 35 degrees. Water is pulled from the manifold to the whole house in a pex 15 tube. My problem is the inability to control the temperature. Yesterday late in the evening (around 24.00) (and this was also the case the day before yesterday and the day before) before going to bed, I went down to the boiler room, the temperature on the stove was 43 degrees, I threw 2 scoops, small, maybe more like a spade, my shovel looks like, I closed bake "deaf" and went to sleep. After an hour at home, there was nothing to breathe, 89 degrees on the stove! The fact was that the water was not boiling but it was close. I have a boiler that I will connect (at the moment it is installed only with an electric heater). My idea, if I am wrong, is to install SOMETHING which, at a maximum temperature of 70 degrees Celsius, would open the valve and hot water would flow from the boiler to the sewage system, the boiler would fill with cold water, thus cooling the system. The question of how to do the aforementioned SOMETHING? Maybe there is some other way to cool it down. Help me please because the situation is very unpleasant. I will only mention that at 1 am the temperature was 89 degrees and in the morning at 7 am it was only 23 degrees - all the coal was burnt. If I wanted it to be warm in the morning, I would have to throw in 4 scoops, which would undoubtedly make me "mexico" out of my pex tubes. I would like to be able to "slow down" the temperature at around 70 degrees Celsius because the house has very good thermal insulation and at 70 there is already a sauna ...

Thank you very much for taking the time to read and help if necessary.

Regards

And what does this controller by the boiler regulate, apart from the pump operation?

It seems that your Zębiec boiler is an ordinary "garbage" without a fan.

Installation diagram, please. The boiler is garbage. Top burning bows, not adding coal. It would also be nice to see the boiler hooked up. Take photos.

Now I remember...
You are forced to learn to smoke in a solid fuel boiler. There is no blower and other goodies.

The charging chamber is only 35 liters, but for 10kW it is enough. Flammability (to maintain the same temperature) is max. 5-6 hours.

You smoke in the cauldron. Paper, a piece of wood for it, and you wait for it to light up. Then shovel the coal and look at the temperature on the kettle. Of course, all this with a set aside to the max. the flap in the lower door. If the temperature in the boiler does not rise too quickly, it is another coal blade.
When the boiler reaches a satisfactory temperature, e.g. 65'C, add coal and close (do not close) the bottom flap so that the temperature on the boiler is maintained.

That's the whole secret of operating your boiler. You have to "feel" it.

After a few hours you run to the boiler room and if you are lucky and the boiler has not expired, you add coal again, open the flap and wait for the boiler to heat up. Some coal for that again and you close the flap ...
(...) all winter!

If you forget to close the flap after firing up or close it insufficiently, the boiler temperature will rise. If you close the flap too much, the boiler will suffocate.

Good luck!

legro wrote:

My idea, if I am wrong, is to install SOMETHING which, at a maximum temperature of 70 degrees Celsius, would open the valve and hot water would flow from the boiler to the sewage system, the boiler would fill with cold water, thus cooling the system.

One of the weirdest ideas I've heard.
As colleagues wrote - you need to feel this stove or replace it with a more user-friendly one. If you can afford to drain hot water into the sewage system, think about an oil or gas stove. A friend has a propane-butane gas stove + fireplace, with good thermal insulation of the house, the costs are not overwhelming.

Thanks for the answers,

Ptak3124 wrote:

And what does this controller by the boiler regulate, apart from the pump operation?

Nothing else - just a pump.

gersik wrote:

Installation diagram, please.

Tonight I will draw the installation diagram and take pictures of the installation.

Ptak3124 wrote:

You are forced to learn to smoke in a solid fuel boiler. There is no blower and other goodies.

Not entirely true, the wife runs a business in a building, which is also equipped with an ordinary "garbage" - GEJZER stove. For three years, a fact, occasionally, when the smoker cannot and I have a day off, I light him, exactly as you describe,

Ptak3124 wrote:

Paper, a piece of wood for it, and you wait for it to light up. Then shovel the coal and look at the temperature on the kettle. Of course, all this with a set aside to the max. the flap in the lower door. If the temperature on the boiler does not rise too quickly, it is another coal blade.
When the boiler reaches a satisfactory temperature, e.g. 65'C, add coal and close (do not close) the bottom flap so that the temperature on the boiler is maintained

The problem is, in my new home, I close the stove as I mentioned, "deaf", top closed, bottom closed, flap closed (screw removed). He bake as if he doesn't do anything about it and he flies like a madman to the 90s.

Therefore, I am looking for a way to "slow down" at 70 degrees.

In the evening I will sketch the installation and upload photos.

Kisses

Install the draft regulator and after the case, the cost of about PLN 100.


He's getting air somewhere, you gotta seal the door.

With small heating surfaces, it is done, I do not know how in this case, but in my small house (literally 4 cast iron radiators) at 50 degrees "garbage" you have to close the trigger because the stove filled with a shovel of coal can stick (on a closed stove) over 80 degrees, so you need to keep an eye on the temperature during backfilling and close it properly.

vodiczka wrote:

One of the weirdest ideas I've heard

:)

Well, maybe a thermal safety valve like Caleffi 544, but this one opens at 95 degrees - I need something at a maximum of 70.

Just don't pour so much coal ...

Are there valves on the radiators?

Ptak3124 wrote:

Are there valves on the radiators?

Yes, there is a valve next to each radiator. There are 8 total radiators in the whole house. Purmo'wskie radiators, in addition, in the bathroom with an area of about 10m2, floor heating. The total area of the house is 84m2.

With a solid fuel boiler, regulating the room temperature with radiator valves is a bad idea.
By turning off the radiator, you reduce the heat consumption from the boiler.

Unscrew the radiators to max. I hope it is secured, so as not to pour "boiling water" over it.

You smoke in the boiler so that your home is nice. If you go overboard with coal, it will be too warm. But the boiler will not boil.
If there are rooms where radiators are wrongly selected and there is a need for "correction" in the efficiency of the radiator, it can be done. However, not a valve with a thermostatic head. If you have thermostatic heads, remove and screw on the "cap" to regulate the flow through the radiator. This adjustment is made once and more valves are not touched.

Ptak3124 wrote:

If there are rooms where radiators are wrongly selected and there is a need for "correction" in the efficiency of the radiator, it can be done. However, not a valve with a thermostatic head

The thermostatic valve I mentioned - CALEFFI 544 - is not a radiator valve. It is mounted next to the stove. As the furnace reaches 95 degrees Celsius, the valve opens, releasing hot water into the sewage system and at the same time allows cold water from the water supply.

For me, it would be a nice solution if I could set such a valve to 70 degrees because, as I mentioned, at 70 it is very hot at home.

Ptak3124 wrote:

I hope it is secured, so as not to pour "boiling water" over it.

Well, it turned out that no, last night, I could barely walk on the bathroom floor because my feet were burning.

Ask a diagram ...

Occasionally (this winter), you can consider reducing the grate area. Put in a fireclay brick or a piece of cast iron.

You focus on a miracle in the form of a valve that would flood the heating system with cold water when the boiler temperature is too high. For what? Thousands of people smoke in "garbage" and no one needs such a solution.

Since you write that the boiler temperature of 70 ° C causes the apartment to overheat, why burn so much in the boiler? Maybe it is enough to light the boiler, bring it to 40 ° C and close the air flap. I know, it won't take long and in 2-3 hours you have to go to the boiler, but this is the "charm" of a solid fuel boiler.
The boiler is selected in such a way as to heat the given heating surface during severe frosts. Now the temperature outside is mostly positive, so you use only part of the boiler power for which it was designed.

So I will count you a little to illustrate the whole.
85m?, where I assume that 1m? requires 120W. We have a demand for heat a bit more than 10kWh in extreme frost. Now let's center for the temperature around 0 ° C outside, it takes ? 70kWh a day.
From a kilogram of good coal, when the boiler has an efficiency of 60%, you will get 4.8 kWh. It comes out 14.6 kg. coal per day (no hot water).
Now the load of your boiler is 35 liters. You never fully sleep the boiler fully, so I assume you load up to 1/4 for the night. So you put in about 7kg. coal.
It is almost half of the daily requirement, and the boiler will burn it within 4-5 hours. You have to manage it in such a way as to receive this heat. If not, you will boil the cauldron.
For the sake of information, I will give you that you should burn more than 3 kg with the constant flammability of the boiler, for example for 5 hours. coal. Then you stabilize the temperature. What does it entail? Unfortunately, you have to run to the boiler room 5 times a day to maintain a "constant" temperature at home.
That's what I am writing to you, to unscrew to the max. all radiator valves. Then you will feel firsthand how much heat your boiler gives and the next time you put in less coal. If you want to cool the boiler down because you have overdone it, just open the window ...

Turn off that underfloor heating before something happens ...
Ask a diagram, because the floor cannot "overheat".

What you write about has been invented a long time ago, you need a string regulator. This fancy device closes the flap slowly as the temperature rises, not allowing the oven to overheat.

Added after 34 [seconds]:

What you write about has been invented a long time ago, you need a string regulator. This fancy device closes the flap slowly as the temperature rises, not allowing the oven to overheat.

I am giving a diagram, but I do not know if it can be called a diagram, at least this is what it looks like in my basement.



The floor is powered from the distributor. A few centimeters behind the manifold is an ordinary butterfly valve.

Forum member Ptak3124, thank you very much for your contribution to this topic. Just remember that I am looking for a reasonably rational solution to the high temperature problem. I want to be sure that the installation does not boil over and that the living conditions are bearable. I would like to provide myself with some protection against reaching over 70 degrees on the stove and that is why this topic was raised. It is different in life, I may not be at home, my wife will go and throw in 2 cubes of coal too much and it will be linden. I know it sounds stupid because if there was no problem, we should throw in less than more. But it's a bit like airbags in a car - I wish it was just in case. It won't be great for this.

płetwa wrote:

What you write about has been invented a long time ago, you need a string regulator

Fin forum member, today after work I cleaned the stove, put some paper, cardboard, wood and 3 small scoops of coal (the small ones from taking the ash out of the stove). I fired up, waited for the stove to reach 35 degrees, the pump turned on, the stove CLOSED completely, up, down, the flap. After 1 hour, there were 68 on the stove.

Put some coal in and light it from above. If there is such an installation as in the diagram, I do not envy you. If you want to lower the temperature on the radiators, use the 4d valve and connect the boiler to the installation correctly. You can write more when you are ready and willing to remake.

legro wrote:

After 1 hour, there were 68 on the stove.

In my opinion, this is what it should be. I remember similar heating in my parents' apartment years ago - a stove in the kitchen, radiators in the rooms and bathroom. Gravity water cycle. We kept the water temperature in the furnace between 60 and 80 degrees and there was no problem with that. If, with economical burning, the temperature is still too high, then the stove's power is clearly too high in relation to the needs. It remains to build a small greenhouse or a frame with a heated substrate and direct excess heat there
If a colleague still insists on draining the water into the sewage system, a temperature controller with a range of up to 100 degrees plus a solenoid valve will solve the problem.

@legro - I recommend reading my posts # 41 and # 61 on this forum> https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3117704-30.html
I believe that on this topic: "Braking the furnace temperature" - they should be helpful.

Since there is to be a protection against boiling water in the boiler, I recommend this:



It is commercially available under the name of "cooling coil for a boiler and a fireplace with a water jacket".

I would like to add that such a device will not replace the overflow vessel in the heating system. The correct connection of the safety tube must be observed.

Hello
In my opinion, in this situation, the floor system can be completely redone, i.e. adding a RTL valve. And stabilize the temperature on the furnace with a buffer tank, a solution quite common with solid fuel furnaces.

Leszek.256 wrote:

And stabilize the temperature on the furnace with a buffer tank, a solution quite common with solid fuel furnaces.

That is, performing one of these steps> http://czysteogrzał.pl/instalacja-grzewcza/bufor-ciepla/, which I gave above.

of course
only in this system it is possible to add a thermostat with a pump or completely redo the system as on the page given above

Post a photo of this boiler / boiler room here

You write that you close the door deafly, up and down. What about the throttle on the chimney pipe? If you have a strong draft in the chimney, it will get you everything. I can't imagine that your boiler does not have something like that, but upload photos. Adding tank pumps etc. can be done in order to increase efficiency and comfort, but the boiler itself should be stable without such additives.

What is the idea of closing the chimney damper?
Protect yourself from such advice!

There is a flap in the boiler door, not a damper, depending on the amount of air to the furnace. If the boiler is "tight" (no cracked door, gaskets made of glass cord, etc.), the draft regulator will suffice.

If, on the other hand, the chimney draft is too strong and the boiler cannot be sealed for some technical reasons, then a chimney draft regulator is proposed and it has nothing to do with the boiler.
About such:

Of course, it closes, so it is installed by the manufacturer in the boiler at the outlet to adjust the air draft to the chimney and the current air demand. It is coarsely regulated in a wider range and more precisely with the flap on the door. This is the basic issue if we want to heat the house, not the surrounding area.

Yeah!
And what will happen when an inexperienced smoker ignites the boiler in windy weather, when the chimney draft is extremely strong?
Use the chimney flap to regulate the draft and cover the outlet almost completely. Apparently it is good ... But outside, the wind stops and the chimney draft decreases. There is a lot of coal in the boiler. And suddenly you can smell the stench in the boiler room, which can sometimes poison the household members.

I'm not sure if the boiler flap at the chimney outlet is such a good idea.